Sunday, September 11, 2011
Can you explain the 'Burnishing' process?
Burnishing isa process by which the surfaces of a planchet or a coin are made to shine through rubbing or polishing. This term is used in two contexts one positive, one negative. In a positive sense, Proof planchets are burnished before they are struck a procedure done originally by rubbing wet sand across the surfaces to impart a mirror like finish. In a negative sense, the surfaces on repaired and altered coins sometimes are burnished by various methods. In some instances, a high-speed drill with some type of wire brush attachment is used to achieve this effect.
MTG Summer Magic and Alt 4th. How to identify them?
Here all, heres guide #1 of the guides I've made so far.
In this guide I'll would be writing on: "How to tell if I have a Summer Magic or an Alternate 4th Editioncard in a few simple ways."
I've kept this guide short and simple so everyone can usethis guide to help them in identifying cards from these 2 sets without any hassle.
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar was a set printed in the summer of 1994, hence the name Summer Magic. The set was made to 'fix' several cards from the Revised Edition. Some cards include Unholy Strength and Demonic Tutor for their art (with growing concerns about references to Satanism). Serendib Efreet for the wrong art.
However, when it was printed, hurricane was printed with blue borders and the artist credit for plateau not changed. Serendib Efreet had its artwork corrected but the artist name was'nt. Therefore this set was slated for destruction. Summer magic was supposed to be released in revised boosters, they never made it to starter decks. Therefore if anyone is selling a Summer Magic starter, it is definitely a scam.
How to tell Summer Magic from Revised Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. They are darker than Revised cards.
2. Theres a 1994 copyrightdate at the bottem left corner of the card, where the artist credit is at. Revised cards do not have this date and this is the best way to tell Summer Magic cards apart from their Revised counterparts.
3. There are Armada geics geic BookPromos (Fireball and Blue Elemental Blast) which have the 1994 copyright date as well. However the copyright is on a 2nd line of text under the artist credit which Summer Magic does not have. Also Summer Magic has the 1994 date on the same line as the artist credits.
So this is how to tell whether the card you have is a Revised or Summer card. I'm sorry I'm not able to post pictures, I can't seem to uploadmy personal Summer Magic card scansonto this guide. Just look out for the 1994 copyright date to the left of the artist credits and you should be able to tell whether its aSummer Magic card. They look exactly the same asRevised cards except for that and they are darker.
Alternate Forth Edition aka Summer Magic 2 aka Cincinnati Forth Edition
Alternate 4th Edition was a set produced on US soil, the first time doing so. The cards were never released but were somehow leaked out to the public. This set is only available in starter decks. Their ISBN is 1-880992-26-4 instead of 1-880992-25-6.
How to tellAlternate Forth Edition from Forth Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. The back of the Alternate Forth Edition cards feel glossy, very much different from normal Magic Cards.
2. Alternate Forth Edition cards do not glow under ultraviolet light, while normal cards do.
3. At the back ofall cards, there is a Magic The Gathering logo. Alternate Forth Edition cards have a darker bluecolour at the top of the letter A from the word MAGICwhile normal cards have a light blue colour. This is the easiest way to tell that your card is a Alternate Forth Edition card.
So above are the methods on how to tell and see if your cards are fromSummer Magic and Alternate Forth Edition . I hope this guide helped you and please show your support by clicking that the guide is helpful. I'll try to make more guides in the future on other promos or Magic The Gatheringsets.
Thanks,
sgcardgames
In this guide I'll would be writing on: "How to tell if I have a Summer Magic or an Alternate 4th Editioncard in a few simple ways."
I've kept this guide short and simple so everyone can usethis guide to help them in identifying cards from these 2 sets without any hassle.
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar was a set printed in the summer of 1994, hence the name Summer Magic. The set was made to 'fix' several cards from the Revised Edition. Some cards include Unholy Strength and Demonic Tutor for their art (with growing concerns about references to Satanism). Serendib Efreet for the wrong art.
However, when it was printed, hurricane was printed with blue borders and the artist credit for plateau not changed. Serendib Efreet had its artwork corrected but the artist name was'nt. Therefore this set was slated for destruction. Summer magic was supposed to be released in revised boosters, they never made it to starter decks. Therefore if anyone is selling a Summer Magic starter, it is definitely a scam.
How to tell Summer Magic from Revised Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. They are darker than Revised cards.
2. Theres a 1994 copyrightdate at the bottem left corner of the card, where the artist credit is at. Revised cards do not have this date and this is the best way to tell Summer Magic cards apart from their Revised counterparts.
3. There are Armada geics geic BookPromos (Fireball and Blue Elemental Blast) which have the 1994 copyright date as well. However the copyright is on a 2nd line of text under the artist credit which Summer Magic does not have. Also Summer Magic has the 1994 date on the same line as the artist credits.
So this is how to tell whether the card you have is a Revised or Summer card. I'm sorry I'm not able to post pictures, I can't seem to uploadmy personal Summer Magic card scansonto this guide. Just look out for the 1994 copyright date to the left of the artist credits and you should be able to tell whether its aSummer Magic card. They look exactly the same asRevised cards except for that and they are darker.
Alternate Forth Edition aka Summer Magic 2 aka Cincinnati Forth Edition
Alternate 4th Edition was a set produced on US soil, the first time doing so. The cards were never released but were somehow leaked out to the public. This set is only available in starter decks. Their ISBN is 1-880992-26-4 instead of 1-880992-25-6.
How to tellAlternate Forth Edition from Forth Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. The back of the Alternate Forth Edition cards feel glossy, very much different from normal Magic Cards.
2. Alternate Forth Edition cards do not glow under ultraviolet light, while normal cards do.
3. At the back ofall cards, there is a Magic The Gathering logo. Alternate Forth Edition cards have a darker bluecolour at the top of the letter A from the word MAGICwhile normal cards have a light blue colour. This is the easiest way to tell that your card is a Alternate Forth Edition card.
So above are the methods on how to tell and see if your cards are fromSummer Magic and Alternate Forth Edition . I hope this guide helped you and please show your support by clicking that the guide is helpful. I'll try to make more guides in the future on other promos or Magic The Gatheringsets.
Thanks,
sgcardgames
How to Rejuvenate Velcro
Most of us have had to deal with the issue of velcro building up with lint and other small things that impede itsability to be useful. There is a simple trick to reviving velcro. Simply take a fine toothed geb over the prickly or catchy part and remove all the foreign substance and Walla you have revived it. This was a short but simple review and I hope you find it to be useful. If you find it useful in any way please be kind enough to take the time to click the " YES " button. Thank you for reading this guide.
Problems with s Policy and blocked users.
This is a list of all the okay members who have not paid their auctions and who have behaved poorly.These members are non-paying members who bid on items and do not payIt is a joke okay does not refund fees on non-payment for Dutch bids which is unfair.All
fees associated with non-payment should be refunded and I should be
able to voice my opinion and concerns to this but ofcourse okay doesn't
allow that.The fact is these members wasted my time cost me money and okay does nothing.If they respond to an unpaid claim even with clicking that they agree to pay and never do they are able to leave feedback.Which
furthermore means I can not leave them the justified negative feedback
because they can retaliate even though they never paid.This is a joke okay policy on this needs to be corrected.Users also have left negative feedback and used extortion methods saying they want money to remove the feedback.-okay
does nothing again and wants proof with the email - This is absurd they
used okay to contact me you have the record in okay itself.Then when presented with the proof of extortion nothing is done even though it is stated in the policy.You
can pay SquareTrade $29.99 and they will remove the feedback because
okay listens to them, what kind of sense does that make.So I
find it perfectly acceptable to state to all the other okay sellers
that these members are problems and to beware of them, this is fair and
not unreasonable like your policies on the matters, what is furthermore
unfair you block the list from being viewed, I'd like to know under
what grounds.1702catherineg, 3168judge69, 36is4daboss, 5317holland, 5kkids, 63roadrebel, 8642danny, 9990angus, aaron7911, abcpsotsettings, abnvulcan, adam_carrion, addictinghobby, ajtenchy, akimk7412, aldinisales, allen6372, andrewrazor, angia2, asianboy4life, auto_tune_and_design, axlrosehunny, baby123123baby123123, badgerlord13, beertank69, bermudezjacob, bigbadbernie, bigggbigcat, bignardz, bignormz, bigskatepimpin, bobbys-garage, braydenborger, briane609, brianj8067, browncal, buynsellloads, buzman71, c1555, caterin21_32, chaznj, chenger187, chicagotwo, chivica1, chris41984, chrt334, cirnex, copcarjack, coreybellamy, cow-bum, create-69, cromekinck, dag614, danielf719, darcy_sauve1969, darkman616, darkwolf135, dasl10, dazzabhoy69, denisha2940, devil_lord1, devinmcfaddenazn, devonchong, djoe89, dkizzle91, dr_villet, dsblocky, dtapia13, dtrues878, duanezealot, dudemanbro1, egiannaris, ej_ramirez, ellisonmike, elvers_josh, emmkramer, entertheyeti-matrix, erodicaxo, ettyquetty, famousbuzz, favboys123, fiend1976, firecaptainrooster, fluffy_frank, flyingjerky, frosty63, frozenflame14, galixcy68, gamewars, gazoby06, geno407, ginabonperez, glassofwater2005, gobbleman, griever987, gshaw33470, gundam242, guzzijen, harley322!, harleydavidsonchic, harshfeet, hdhipp, heaneys92, hell313, hiranimo, hodge6763, hollywood150982, horrornut06, hot_gymnast, hyuri428, idacarlucci55, impulsemedical, irishtiger55555, ironpatriot86, itfben, itsmyfault33, iwaluth2005, jacobahearn, janice72652, jayce_javon86, jdub66hr99, jensenj619, jf578573, jimmyw4932, jmoney1212, joeisbronot89, johnny819hc, johntimd, joney200, josh1295, joudrey2007, jr_sniffa, jsb3ace, jsb7693, justastupidbuyer, kbear11ac, kcnygallen, keatons2007, keebo427, kevinvn808, keyknifeking, kgramz607, kimw199, kingrich718, kirk_woodill, kirkfag1, kja5jea5, kmarchuk35, kndwall, knowles1991, kontrol313, kreutzified, kronic0220, ktylerjenaya, kyle88, labmom2060, lawyergavin, le_vinson, leianncopper, lileric07, lilhotshot09, live2fight_fight2live, lnlbutler, m0nkeyz57, maddawg421, mark00000000001, marsteller83, masczone, massana_and, masterpaintball69, matt9712, mattiepoo4u, mellovox, mgraham420, mick_809, mieso13, miguelangel1090, mikegt4873, miklot, mizarkmcdonald, mjmurph420, moneysteved, morinfern, motocrossnick, msteve123, mtfdexplorersta5, musicrose391, n.s.sherlock, nadan777, nflpanthersfan, ninpo6148, niqqerman1, novich06, obnoxshsone, oopsjonnyjonny, pandwcat, pazabam21, phillyblunt13, pitmajh, polly_want_a_cracker, president2510, radlicka123, raymont2105, rballa23, rcmaniac0306, reddanno265, redelephant44, redneck1369, redspitfire, reven479, rhe5er, rhymer89, rigidstp, rkwrestle13, robertsonty, rockchalk2204, roigorjgogjorjto, rudyceasor, sabbath780, sawbeast, scar_predator, scmedww, sephiroth198069, shapiro7117, shauns86, shepbreeder, shoresaaron, shrapnel666, siemsen0042, skinut48, slash_dylan, slmmaster, smokeweedeveryday420, soconnor93, spammer*slammer, speed_demon_702, ssj4goku1988, stevedorey, steven69000, stoogsybroon, t0taleclipse, tallandy92, taniisha123, tankbuster123, tatp1961, tedd1150, texas_skeeter, texasforeplay, the-phoenix-image, thecutekid7, theeder52657, timisawesome, trap6599, trashmaster21, travisblaserlove, travisslarsen, treasurehunters58, tremayne2007, trunkmonkey76, tuneman, tyshukry, uasksales, udtabn, ula77t, undeadempire, victimzeroband, videogameaddict123, vivki4g64, vmfa-224, wad0687, wall5830, wheeledwarrior471, whereswaldo165, whoever_you_are, whyetn, wisetiger111, wmbrown3, wolfe1234joshua, wyofire12, xfairjudgementx, yamaha_fan65, zimmerman2750, zombiehell, zomby47
fees associated with non-payment should be refunded and I should be
able to voice my opinion and concerns to this but ofcourse okay doesn't
allow that.The fact is these members wasted my time cost me money and okay does nothing.If they respond to an unpaid claim even with clicking that they agree to pay and never do they are able to leave feedback.Which
furthermore means I can not leave them the justified negative feedback
because they can retaliate even though they never paid.This is a joke okay policy on this needs to be corrected.Users also have left negative feedback and used extortion methods saying they want money to remove the feedback.-okay
does nothing again and wants proof with the email - This is absurd they
used okay to contact me you have the record in okay itself.Then when presented with the proof of extortion nothing is done even though it is stated in the policy.You
can pay SquareTrade $29.99 and they will remove the feedback because
okay listens to them, what kind of sense does that make.So I
find it perfectly acceptable to state to all the other okay sellers
that these members are problems and to beware of them, this is fair and
not unreasonable like your policies on the matters, what is furthermore
unfair you block the list from being viewed, I'd like to know under
what grounds.1702catherineg, 3168judge69, 36is4daboss, 5317holland, 5kkids, 63roadrebel, 8642danny, 9990angus, aaron7911, abcpsotsettings, abnvulcan, adam_carrion, addictinghobby, ajtenchy, akimk7412, aldinisales, allen6372, andrewrazor, angia2, asianboy4life, auto_tune_and_design, axlrosehunny, baby123123baby123123, badgerlord13, beertank69, bermudezjacob, bigbadbernie, bigggbigcat, bignardz, bignormz, bigskatepimpin, bobbys-garage, braydenborger, briane609, brianj8067, browncal, buynsellloads, buzman71, c1555, caterin21_32, chaznj, chenger187, chicagotwo, chivica1, chris41984, chrt334, cirnex, copcarjack, coreybellamy, cow-bum, create-69, cromekinck, dag614, danielf719, darcy_sauve1969, darkman616, darkwolf135, dasl10, dazzabhoy69, denisha2940, devil_lord1, devinmcfaddenazn, devonchong, djoe89, dkizzle91, dr_villet, dsblocky, dtapia13, dtrues878, duanezealot, dudemanbro1, egiannaris, ej_ramirez, ellisonmike, elvers_josh, emmkramer, entertheyeti-matrix, erodicaxo, ettyquetty, famousbuzz, favboys123, fiend1976, firecaptainrooster, fluffy_frank, flyingjerky, frosty63, frozenflame14, galixcy68, gamewars, gazoby06, geno407, ginabonperez, glassofwater2005, gobbleman, griever987, gshaw33470, gundam242, guzzijen, harley322!, harleydavidsonchic, harshfeet, hdhipp, heaneys92, hell313, hiranimo, hodge6763, hollywood150982, horrornut06, hot_gymnast, hyuri428, idacarlucci55, impulsemedical, irishtiger55555, ironpatriot86, itfben, itsmyfault33, iwaluth2005, jacobahearn, janice72652, jayce_javon86, jdub66hr99, jensenj619, jf578573, jimmyw4932, jmoney1212, joeisbronot89, johnny819hc, johntimd, joney200, josh1295, joudrey2007, jr_sniffa, jsb3ace, jsb7693, justastupidbuyer, kbear11ac, kcnygallen, keatons2007, keebo427, kevinvn808, keyknifeking, kgramz607, kimw199, kingrich718, kirk_woodill, kirkfag1, kja5jea5, kmarchuk35, kndwall, knowles1991, kontrol313, kreutzified, kronic0220, ktylerjenaya, kyle88, labmom2060, lawyergavin, le_vinson, leianncopper, lileric07, lilhotshot09, live2fight_fight2live, lnlbutler, m0nkeyz57, maddawg421, mark00000000001, marsteller83, masczone, massana_and, masterpaintball69, matt9712, mattiepoo4u, mellovox, mgraham420, mick_809, mieso13, miguelangel1090, mikegt4873, miklot, mizarkmcdonald, mjmurph420, moneysteved, morinfern, motocrossnick, msteve123, mtfdexplorersta5, musicrose391, n.s.sherlock, nadan777, nflpanthersfan, ninpo6148, niqqerman1, novich06, obnoxshsone, oopsjonnyjonny, pandwcat, pazabam21, phillyblunt13, pitmajh, polly_want_a_cracker, president2510, radlicka123, raymont2105, rballa23, rcmaniac0306, reddanno265, redelephant44, redneck1369, redspitfire, reven479, rhe5er, rhymer89, rigidstp, rkwrestle13, robertsonty, rockchalk2204, roigorjgogjorjto, rudyceasor, sabbath780, sawbeast, scar_predator, scmedww, sephiroth198069, shapiro7117, shauns86, shepbreeder, shoresaaron, shrapnel666, siemsen0042, skinut48, slash_dylan, slmmaster, smokeweedeveryday420, soconnor93, spammer*slammer, speed_demon_702, ssj4goku1988, stevedorey, steven69000, stoogsybroon, t0taleclipse, tallandy92, taniisha123, tankbuster123, tatp1961, tedd1150, texas_skeeter, texasforeplay, the-phoenix-image, thecutekid7, theeder52657, timisawesome, trap6599, trashmaster21, travisblaserlove, travisslarsen, treasurehunters58, tremayne2007, trunkmonkey76, tuneman, tyshukry, uasksales, udtabn, ula77t, undeadempire, victimzeroband, videogameaddict123, vivki4g64, vmfa-224, wad0687, wall5830, wheeledwarrior471, whereswaldo165, whoever_you_are, whyetn, wisetiger111, wmbrown3, wolfe1234joshua, wyofire12, xfairjudgementx, yamaha_fan65, zimmerman2750, zombiehell, zomby47
IS this REAL? Say What? or SAY WOW!!! SAVE NOW!
Sometimes we just have to say: WHAT??? Now I say WOW!!!
Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelashselling for over $180.00! At least one online store has it for $160.00 with free shipping and handling.
Yes these products and examples are real however the asking price may soundCRAZY!To look into this first one, I copied and pasted the name of the product and went to our favorite search engine that begins with google and found the product selling for $129.00 on my first glance. Also found it for $160.00 and other amounts. Surely, this okayer is unaware that since her purchase the pricehas gee down.
However,how many of us just go for it and don't do our research? GUIDE UPDATE 2/4/07: I decided that I needed to try this product so I ordered inline from the skinstore via a rebate site listed on my ME page. I also used a coupon for the store and paid only $110.00 after coupon, free shipping and rebate. HOWEVER, I am still waiting for my product as it is on back order. :) I do aim to please!
UPDATE 2/17/07: I received mine and so far so good.
UPDATE 2/28/07: Let ME JUST SAY WOW! THIS PRODUCT REALLY WORKS! IT DOES STING A LITTLE, BUT IT IS WORTH IT!
Signature Club A moisturizer with SPF for $2.00 with Shipping and Handing of $10.00
The second example that I will use is from my own personal experience for which I received my only negative feedback in almost 5 years. The seller wasand is selling Signature Club A products. I didn't bother to go to HSN and check out the new packaging or do my homework. He had the best prices, if you don't count Shipping and Handling. When I asked him for expiration dates, he was unable to provide them. Our deal went downhill from there. The bottom line is I should have recognized that his packaging was ancient. When he could not provide an expiration date, I should have run for the hills. My lesson learned,hopefully your incident PREVENTED!
Avoid getting THE SHIPPING BLUES OR BUYERS REMORSEby sellers who will not gebine shipping and handling for you. New items are listed every day, so don't worry if you miss one or two chances! Your deals will gee.
DO READ THE SELLER'S FEED BACK! IT IS ALWAYS INTERESTING TO SEE WHAT THEY LEAVE FOR THEIR BUYERS! ALSO TAKE NOTE OF HOW MANY FEEDBACK'S HAVE BEEN MUTUALLY WITHDRAWN!
The wonderful thing about okay is that as long as you the buyer and seller are happy, it really does not matter what anyone else thinks! If you want to know how to protect yourself from fraud or a deal gone wrong, please read my other guides.
For okay and all of yourOn-Line Shopping Needs
Enter www-dot (www.) in your browser window and paste these links:
Simply Click myAbout MePAGE for Direct LINKS!
BigCrumbs.ge/Crumbs/frontpage.jsp?r=migz3333 SAVE 36% on okay NOW!
Many of our members are okay Store Owners because BC will auto-import your items and list them on their DB!
Here, you can browse their awesome stores, search their store items and more!
And remember, you earn cash back at the okay rate when you shop at any Member okay Store!
ebates.ge/rf.do?id=3123950 $5.00 Referral Fee for you and whomever you refer!
mrrebates.ge?refid=97702 $10.00 INSTANT! Sign-up Bonus (Limited time offer)
To Obtain your rebates, you MUST login through the rebate websites and follow their links to okay and the other 1000's of on-line retailers!
These sites will pay you your rebates and referral fees via Paypal!
Please vote YES for my guide!
Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelashselling for over $180.00! At least one online store has it for $160.00 with free shipping and handling.
Yes these products and examples are real however the asking price may soundCRAZY!To look into this first one, I copied and pasted the name of the product and went to our favorite search engine that begins with google and found the product selling for $129.00 on my first glance. Also found it for $160.00 and other amounts. Surely, this okayer is unaware that since her purchase the pricehas gee down.
However,how many of us just go for it and don't do our research? GUIDE UPDATE 2/4/07: I decided that I needed to try this product so I ordered inline from the skinstore via a rebate site listed on my ME page. I also used a coupon for the store and paid only $110.00 after coupon, free shipping and rebate. HOWEVER, I am still waiting for my product as it is on back order. :) I do aim to please!
UPDATE 2/17/07: I received mine and so far so good.
UPDATE 2/28/07: Let ME JUST SAY WOW! THIS PRODUCT REALLY WORKS! IT DOES STING A LITTLE, BUT IT IS WORTH IT!
Signature Club A moisturizer with SPF for $2.00 with Shipping and Handing of $10.00
The second example that I will use is from my own personal experience for which I received my only negative feedback in almost 5 years. The seller wasand is selling Signature Club A products. I didn't bother to go to HSN and check out the new packaging or do my homework. He had the best prices, if you don't count Shipping and Handling. When I asked him for expiration dates, he was unable to provide them. Our deal went downhill from there. The bottom line is I should have recognized that his packaging was ancient. When he could not provide an expiration date, I should have run for the hills. My lesson learned,hopefully your incident PREVENTED!
Avoid getting THE SHIPPING BLUES OR BUYERS REMORSEby sellers who will not gebine shipping and handling for you. New items are listed every day, so don't worry if you miss one or two chances! Your deals will gee.
DO READ THE SELLER'S FEED BACK! IT IS ALWAYS INTERESTING TO SEE WHAT THEY LEAVE FOR THEIR BUYERS! ALSO TAKE NOTE OF HOW MANY FEEDBACK'S HAVE BEEN MUTUALLY WITHDRAWN!
The wonderful thing about okay is that as long as you the buyer and seller are happy, it really does not matter what anyone else thinks! If you want to know how to protect yourself from fraud or a deal gone wrong, please read my other guides.
For okay and all of yourOn-Line Shopping Needs
Enter www-dot (www.) in your browser window and paste these links:
Simply Click myAbout MePAGE for Direct LINKS!
BigCrumbs.ge/Crumbs/frontpage.jsp?r=migz3333 SAVE 36% on okay NOW!
Many of our members are okay Store Owners because BC will auto-import your items and list them on their DB!
Here, you can browse their awesome stores, search their store items and more!
And remember, you earn cash back at the okay rate when you shop at any Member okay Store!
ebates.ge/rf.do?id=3123950 $5.00 Referral Fee for you and whomever you refer!
mrrebates.ge?refid=97702 $10.00 INSTANT! Sign-up Bonus (Limited time offer)
To Obtain your rebates, you MUST login through the rebate websites and follow their links to okay and the other 1000's of on-line retailers!
These sites will pay you your rebates and referral fees via Paypal!
Please vote YES for my guide!
Determining the Value of an Antique
Determining Value
Determining the value of an antique means more than locating an item in a price guide or auction results. There are a number of factors
to consider when deciding how much your antiques are really worth. With a little effort, patience and learning about your favorite antiques
categories, along with these guidelines, you can learn to value it yourself like an appraisal pro.
Don't Overlook a Mark
Whether we like it or not, items stamped with a manufacturers or designers mark are often worth more than identical pieces with no
signature. Use a magnifying glass, if necessary, to make sure you don't overlook a mark that may add value and assist you with further
research. With hand painted and hand crafted pieces, finding an artist's signature in addition to a manufacturer's mark is a boon. Be sure
to examine each piece carefully for these valuable identifying signs.
Consider Condition
One of the most important factors to consider when you value an antique is condition. Even when you locate an item in a price guide, if
your piece isn't in geparable condition then do further research. Take all flaws into consideration including chips, cracks, excessive wear,
tears, stains and missing geponents. Look for anything that keeps your antique from being in like new or "mint" condition and take that
into consideration when determining value.
Is It gemon or Rare
There are times when an extremely rare antique with condition factors will still be worth quite a good amount. For instance, if you
determine that you own a piece of Majolica pottery with a hairline crack, it may still be worth quite a nice sum. However, if you own a
cracked piece of Art Deco glass, it probably won't hold much more than decorative value. If you're not sure about how rarity determines
the value in the area you're researching, check with an expert in that field before discarding a damaged item.
Old Doesn't Always Mean Valuable
Much of an item's value lies in the buyer's demand. There are many items over 100 years old now that aren't in high demand. Take time
pieces from the early 1900s as an example. Many of these time pieces survived over the years making them too gemon to hold much
value. On the other hand, if you own a hard to find designer timepiece of the same age, it's likely worth more. There are times when a
timepiece can be worth $600 or more to an avid collector or dealer.
Is it Real or Fake
If an item has been in your family for many generations and you know the provenance, you can feel reasonably sure you're dealing with an
authentic antique. But if you purchase an item at a shady flea market, many times you'll have to authenticate it before you can truly
determine the value. Look for telltale signs of wear and age, along with discrepancies in marks and signatures. Subtle details can often
provide clues to the true age of an object.
Has It Been Restored or Repaired
Professional restoration can add value to a rare antique, but amateur repairs affect value negatively in most cases. It's important to
evaluate a piece to discern whether it has been haphazardly repaired or the original value-adding patina has been removed. If glue is
present, solders are easily detected, or chips have obviously been ground down, an antique or collectible should be valued accordingly.
Minor repairs may not affect the value of a piece at all. Ask an expert if you're not sure.
Does It Have Salvage Value
Just because an antique or collectible is broken or damaged doesn't necessarily render it totally worthless. Many dealers will buy items
they can repair or use for parts to repair other pieces. Severely damaged antiques are sometimes transformed by two pieces begeing
one called a marriage, or crafters will purchase them for supplies. Depending on the extent of the damage and the item's relative
usefulness, it may still hold some value. It's wise to check around before banishing it to the dumpster.
Consider Current Market Influences
If you've located an item in a price guide or auction results, does the information reflect current markets? Prices for antiques and
collectibles can fluctuate widely and quickly depending on current demand. Prices may drop down to pre-demand levels once the boom
has passed, or they may remain high due to diminished supply as dealers have difficulty replenishing inventories. It's important to watch
the markets in your favorite collecting categories and stay on top of value-affecting trends.
Ask an Expert Friend for Advice
Many times appraisers will indicate they've consulted with their colleagues when determining values. Don't be afraid to ask a well-versed
friend or a dealer you trust for their opinion. Sometimes your educated judgment will overrule what they've shared, but it's good to get
the advice of others when you're feeling a bit uncertain about valuing an item, especially those seldom seen on the secondary market.
Think About gemon Values for gemon Pieces
Appraisers most often value antiques based on the median value rather than the highest or lowest prices realized for similar items. There
are times when a piece will sell very high at auction, but the same item will bring a more moderate price at an antique show. Rarities are
more difficult to value, however. The most recent selling price may be a good indicator of expected market value when pricing a rare item.
Determining the value of an antique means more than locating an item in a price guide or auction results. There are a number of factors
to consider when deciding how much your antiques are really worth. With a little effort, patience and learning about your favorite antiques
categories, along with these guidelines, you can learn to value it yourself like an appraisal pro.
Don't Overlook a Mark
Whether we like it or not, items stamped with a manufacturers or designers mark are often worth more than identical pieces with no
signature. Use a magnifying glass, if necessary, to make sure you don't overlook a mark that may add value and assist you with further
research. With hand painted and hand crafted pieces, finding an artist's signature in addition to a manufacturer's mark is a boon. Be sure
to examine each piece carefully for these valuable identifying signs.
Consider Condition
One of the most important factors to consider when you value an antique is condition. Even when you locate an item in a price guide, if
your piece isn't in geparable condition then do further research. Take all flaws into consideration including chips, cracks, excessive wear,
tears, stains and missing geponents. Look for anything that keeps your antique from being in like new or "mint" condition and take that
into consideration when determining value.
Is It gemon or Rare
There are times when an extremely rare antique with condition factors will still be worth quite a good amount. For instance, if you
determine that you own a piece of Majolica pottery with a hairline crack, it may still be worth quite a nice sum. However, if you own a
cracked piece of Art Deco glass, it probably won't hold much more than decorative value. If you're not sure about how rarity determines
the value in the area you're researching, check with an expert in that field before discarding a damaged item.
Old Doesn't Always Mean Valuable
Much of an item's value lies in the buyer's demand. There are many items over 100 years old now that aren't in high demand. Take time
pieces from the early 1900s as an example. Many of these time pieces survived over the years making them too gemon to hold much
value. On the other hand, if you own a hard to find designer timepiece of the same age, it's likely worth more. There are times when a
timepiece can be worth $600 or more to an avid collector or dealer.
Is it Real or Fake
If an item has been in your family for many generations and you know the provenance, you can feel reasonably sure you're dealing with an
authentic antique. But if you purchase an item at a shady flea market, many times you'll have to authenticate it before you can truly
determine the value. Look for telltale signs of wear and age, along with discrepancies in marks and signatures. Subtle details can often
provide clues to the true age of an object.
Has It Been Restored or Repaired
Professional restoration can add value to a rare antique, but amateur repairs affect value negatively in most cases. It's important to
evaluate a piece to discern whether it has been haphazardly repaired or the original value-adding patina has been removed. If glue is
present, solders are easily detected, or chips have obviously been ground down, an antique or collectible should be valued accordingly.
Minor repairs may not affect the value of a piece at all. Ask an expert if you're not sure.
Does It Have Salvage Value
Just because an antique or collectible is broken or damaged doesn't necessarily render it totally worthless. Many dealers will buy items
they can repair or use for parts to repair other pieces. Severely damaged antiques are sometimes transformed by two pieces begeing
one called a marriage, or crafters will purchase them for supplies. Depending on the extent of the damage and the item's relative
usefulness, it may still hold some value. It's wise to check around before banishing it to the dumpster.
Consider Current Market Influences
If you've located an item in a price guide or auction results, does the information reflect current markets? Prices for antiques and
collectibles can fluctuate widely and quickly depending on current demand. Prices may drop down to pre-demand levels once the boom
has passed, or they may remain high due to diminished supply as dealers have difficulty replenishing inventories. It's important to watch
the markets in your favorite collecting categories and stay on top of value-affecting trends.
Ask an Expert Friend for Advice
Many times appraisers will indicate they've consulted with their colleagues when determining values. Don't be afraid to ask a well-versed
friend or a dealer you trust for their opinion. Sometimes your educated judgment will overrule what they've shared, but it's good to get
the advice of others when you're feeling a bit uncertain about valuing an item, especially those seldom seen on the secondary market.
Think About gemon Values for gemon Pieces
Appraisers most often value antiques based on the median value rather than the highest or lowest prices realized for similar items. There
are times when a piece will sell very high at auction, but the same item will bring a more moderate price at an antique show. Rarities are
more difficult to value, however. The most recent selling price may be a good indicator of expected market value when pricing a rare item.
OUTRAGEOUS SHIPPING COSTS
SOMEONE HAS TO SAY SOMETHING ABOUT THE COST OF SHIPPING MOSTLY ON THE SMALL okay ITEMS SUCH AS FISHING LURES AND OTHER SMALL ITEMS,WHEN A SELLER IS SELLING A 2" FISHING LURE FOR 5.00 AND THE SHIPPING COST IS 8.75. THAT IS IN EXCESS OF THE ACTUAL COST TO SHIP.IT WOULD ONLY COST AT THE MAX PRICE 2.00 TO SHIP SOMETHING THAT SMALL IN A PADDED ENVELOPE ANYWHERE IN THE UNITED STATES AND HAWAII..INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING IN AN GLOBAL PRIORITY ENVELOPE COSTS THE SELLER 5.25 IN MOST OF THE UNITED STATES.... OR IN A SMALL BOX 6 X 5 X 3" DIMENSIONS IT WILL ONLY COST AT THE MAX3.00 I KNOW THATINSURANCE IS EXTRA AND ALSO A DELIVERY CONFIRMATION IS .60 CENTS.WHICH INSURES THE PACKAGE WILL BE DELIVERED TO ITS DESTINATION...geE ON THE SHIPPING COST FOR SMALL FISHING LURES IS REDICULUS.PLEASE CONTACT YOUR SELLERS AND ASK FOR A LESSER AMOUNT TO SHIP SUCH A SMALL ITEM,AND ALSO CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL POST OFFICE FOR SHIPPING COSTS.IF YOU THINK THE SHIPPING COST IS EXCESSIVE THEN REPORT IT TO okay .BUT PLEASE.CONTACT THE SELLER AND TRY TO WORK A REASONABLE SHIPPING COST OUT ..IT WILL HELP SELLERS TO SELL MORE ITEMS..AND IT WILL INCREASE YOUR SALES.A LOWER SHIPPING COST WILL BRING MORE BIDS TO YOUR ITEMS..
SELLERS, ONE SIMPLE THING TO PROTECT YOURSELF ON PAYPAL
We do a lot of buying and selling on okay. I am amazed at the number of sellers who ship us packages that don't do one thing to protect themselves against unscrupulous buyers.We love selling on okay, as most buyers are good and honest people. However, every once in awhile, a buyer gees along who is unscrupulous and wants to scam the seller, so they get free merchandise. This can really wreck your day, even if it is only a small amount of money. Trust me.There is ONE simple thing that EVERY seller should do and costsno more than50 cents a package.......... DELIVERY CONFIRMATION / TRACKING NUMBER. Buy purchasing delivery confirmation, you can prove to PayPal, should you have to prove it later in a dispute, that you did indeed ship quickly and you can also show the date of delivery. Proof of delivery is needed if you have an unscrupulous buyer claim non-receipt of merchandise. If you have shipped to the buyer's confirmed address, shipped out within 7 days of receiving full payment, and can prove it with a delivery confirmation, you win the case. HANDS down, period.Out of thousands of packages shipped out, we have had only a tiny handful of unscrupulous buyers enter our store. Most people are good and honest and that is why we love selling on okay.If you are selling high-ticket items, you may encounter more scammers than those selling low ticket items.One good thing we have found is that when you encounter a scammer, okay and PayPal are not only interested in helping you, the seller-victim, they want to protect the next seller and bad buyers can have their buying scams stopped dead in their tracks.Delivery confirmation with the post office is no more than 50 cents and worth every penny. Tracking with Fedex and UPS and DHL is free and part of their service. NOTE: if you are selling something worth $250 or more, be sure to get SIGNED DELIVERY confirmation, with ONLINE tracking that shows the SIGNATURE ONLINE, as required by PayPal. That costs a bit more, currently no more than $1.90, as of the date that this guide was written, with the US Postal Service. With Fedex and UPS and DHL, online signature confirmation may be free, depending on the level of service and whether you are shipping to a residential or business address. At most, it might cost you a few extra dollars, but well worth it, so you don't lose sleep at night.Be smart, protect yourself. ONLY ship with a delivery confirmation number or tracking number.AND tickle your buyers pink..............HINT, HINT, HINT: take the time to send them the tracking number, YES, for every single transaction, even for a small 99 cents transaction. They will thank you. And besides, you cared enough about the transaction to BUY the tracking number (if it wasn't free for your particular package), so why not email it to them? Buyers LOVE getting a tracking number by email. It shows you care about them. It is well worth the time to email them.We are NOT only a SHOOTING STAR seller on okay, we are buyers, too and LOVE it when a seller emails us a tracking number. We would MUCH rather buy from a fellow seller on okay than a brick and mortar store. We love being part of the okay gemunity and hope that you do also. If you protect yourself against that occasional scammer, you don't have to worry about these occasional scammers and you can then focus on giving your good buyers the very best in service.Copyright 2009 by SuperGoodDeals
Install an AMD DUAL CORE CPU Properly in Windows XP
AMD DUAL CORE CPUIf you have a dual core PC, and you installed it yourself or you are having troubles with it running some applications, chances are you haven't done the often overlooked steps to properly install dual core into your XP operating system.Install the Windows XP SP2 Dual-Core HotfixDownload the hotfix from:amdzone.geThe hotfix name is: WinXPdualcorehotfix.exeAfter installing, restart.Go to Start, Run. Type regedit and push OK. Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager. Right-click Session Manager and do New, Key. Type Throttle for the name. Right-click New, DWORD Value. Type PerfEnablePackageIdle for the name. Right-click PerfEnablePackageIdle and click Modify. In the Value data box, enter '1' (without quotes, default is most likely '0'); make sure Hexadecimal is selected and push OK. Close the registry editor.Install the AMD X2 driver.from amd.geUnder the technical resources of processors.This is necessary and often overlooked. If one specific program is having problem running on your dual core, it may be because it is souly designed for a single core CPU. To prevent errors with these programs, press CTRL ALT DEL and go to the processes tab. There you can right click that process and click "set affinity". There you can deselect the 2nd core and presto, you are ready to roll.
solution to paypal chargebacks so u dont lose money
OK IF YOU HAVE SOLD MORE THEN 100 ITEMS THEN I'M SURE YOUVE HAD A PAYPAL DISPUTE FILED AGAINST YOU. I HAVE A SOLUTION TO FIX LOOSING MONEY OVER THIS. WE ALL KNOW WHEN A DISPUTE IS FILED WITH PAYPAL FOR ANYTHING OVER 35 DOLLARS PAYPAL WILL HOLD YOUR MONEY FOR 30 DAYS JUST TO TELL THE BUYER TO SHIP IT BACK FOR A FULL REFUND. AND IN ALL REALITY YOUR JUST OUT THE INITIAL SHIPPING COST. WELL AFTER A DISPUTE ON A MOTORCYCLE ENGINE I SOLD FOR 75 BUCKS BUT IT COST 375 TO SHIP. THE GUY FILED A DISPUTE WITH NO INTENTION OF SHIPPING IT BACK JUST TO BE SPITEFUL. THERES 2 ANSWERS TO THIS PROBLEM, 1ST SHIP THE ITEM C.O.D. (CASH ON DELIVERY) OR CREDIT FOR UPS. THIS WAY THE SHIPPING COST DOES NOT GO THRU PAYPAL AND YOUR NOT OUT THE EXTRA MONEY. ALL FREIGHT CARRIERS DO THIS UPS DOES THIS. THE OTHER SOLUTION IS HAVE THE CUSTOMER PAY THE SHIPPING gePANY DIRECTLY. A SEPERATE PAYMENT TO THEM CANT BE DISPUTED THRU THE TRANSACTION. THIS WAY YOUR NOT OUT THE COST OF SHIPPING AN ITEM IF FOR SOME REASON THEY RETURN IT. I'VE HAD PEOPLE BUY A WORKING LAPTOP SYSTEM FROM ME, TELL ME THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT THEY JUST CHANGED THERE MIND. NORMALLY THAT WOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM BUT IT WAS PURCHASED RIGHT BEFORE X-MAS. THEN THEY DRAGGED THERE FEET RETURNING IT AND IT SHOWED BACK UP 2 DAYS BEFORE X-MAS. WHEN I WENT TO RESELL I TOOK OVER A 100 DOLLAR LOSS. JUST SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT. NONE OF US LIKE DISPUTES, BUT WE ALL KNOW THERES PEOPLE OUT THERE WHO CANT BE REASONED WITH NO MATTER WHAT. GOOD LUCK
How To Make Wire Jewelry and Embellishments
Did you ever wonder how people make that fancy wire jewelry? Did you ever want to know how to do it yourself? Well then this is a guide that you will want to read! This is for Beginners.
Materials you will need:
Jeweler's Pliers
Materials you will need:
Jeweler's Pliers
Make Money on s By Flipping
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Rob,
Just a quick note to let you know how much I have enjoyed your ebook and the newsletter. I am very new to selling. I just listed my first item on Sunday, however I am a seasoned buyer! I know the ropes when it gees to buying. Now, I would like to learn the best techniques for selling.My goal is to learn as much as I can about the selling process, and to sell quality items. Once I begee gefortable and learn the ropes I would like to offer my okay selling service to local retailers who do not have an okay presence (small and large items). Do you think that is a good way to go? Do you know anyone else approaching okay in this manner? I know it is consignment, but instead on selling just anyones items, I would like to try and find retailers who have great items and are not utilizing okay. I appreciate your advice and wish you and your family continued success!RickHi, Rick. Thanks for the gements about the ebook and newsletter.Yes, I think offering an okay consignment business is a good idea. You can start this up real cheap, too!The benefits of your idea include:Low risk in product investing Youre dealing with a gepany with many products, not one consumer with (typically) one product to auction Here some challenges to consider:Its a lot of paperwork to keep track of how much an item sells for and who/when you split the profits Your consignment partner needs to know that most of the stuff may sell for less. You need to establish a minimum bid amount, if necessary. Many store owners sell licensed merchandise that can not be sold online I would target small to medium size gepanies and start in your area of specialty; something you know a lot about. One of the areas I learned a lot about is jewelry. Ive worked with many small jewelry stores and sold their items. I mean, tons of jewelry is typically just sitting in their stores, often for years, and they would be pleased to get some cash back for it.
Another idea similar to yours is what I call okay Flipping. And, since you mentioned your a seasoned buyer, this also may be a good idea for you. okay Flipping is buying stuff on okay and then bringing the items to consignment stores. Kind of a backwards way of making money with okay, hence the term for this idea.Let me give you an example. okay is ideal for two ways: finding really good, outrageous deals and/or finding really unique and hard to find items. Lets take the first idea and say your a jewelry guru, you can practically smell an insanely good necklace up for auction. You know the product is legimate (mostly because of a long feedback history) and you win the item for a mere $10. Bring the necklace to a local boutique store and have them sell it for you. My local boutique and fashion stores get HUGE mark-ups for their products. Typically in the consignment business, the sale of the item is split 50/50. So, if the necklace sold for a reasonable $60, youd make $20 (half of $60 minus the cost of the necklace). Do that just 10 times a week and youve got $200. The works hours are very flexible, too!You can buy tons of stuff on okay and have a bricks and mortar consignment business. Thats okay Flipping in a nutshell.Either way, I think you have a good idea. Hope this helps.
- Rob
Rob,
Just a quick note to let you know how much I have enjoyed your ebook and the newsletter. I am very new to selling. I just listed my first item on Sunday, however I am a seasoned buyer! I know the ropes when it gees to buying. Now, I would like to learn the best techniques for selling.My goal is to learn as much as I can about the selling process, and to sell quality items. Once I begee gefortable and learn the ropes I would like to offer my okay selling service to local retailers who do not have an okay presence (small and large items). Do you think that is a good way to go? Do you know anyone else approaching okay in this manner? I know it is consignment, but instead on selling just anyones items, I would like to try and find retailers who have great items and are not utilizing okay. I appreciate your advice and wish you and your family continued success!RickHi, Rick. Thanks for the gements about the ebook and newsletter.Yes, I think offering an okay consignment business is a good idea. You can start this up real cheap, too!The benefits of your idea include:Low risk in product investing Youre dealing with a gepany with many products, not one consumer with (typically) one product to auction Here some challenges to consider:Its a lot of paperwork to keep track of how much an item sells for and who/when you split the profits Your consignment partner needs to know that most of the stuff may sell for less. You need to establish a minimum bid amount, if necessary. Many store owners sell licensed merchandise that can not be sold online I would target small to medium size gepanies and start in your area of specialty; something you know a lot about. One of the areas I learned a lot about is jewelry. Ive worked with many small jewelry stores and sold their items. I mean, tons of jewelry is typically just sitting in their stores, often for years, and they would be pleased to get some cash back for it.
Another idea similar to yours is what I call okay Flipping. And, since you mentioned your a seasoned buyer, this also may be a good idea for you. okay Flipping is buying stuff on okay and then bringing the items to consignment stores. Kind of a backwards way of making money with okay, hence the term for this idea.Let me give you an example. okay is ideal for two ways: finding really good, outrageous deals and/or finding really unique and hard to find items. Lets take the first idea and say your a jewelry guru, you can practically smell an insanely good necklace up for auction. You know the product is legimate (mostly because of a long feedback history) and you win the item for a mere $10. Bring the necklace to a local boutique store and have them sell it for you. My local boutique and fashion stores get HUGE mark-ups for their products. Typically in the consignment business, the sale of the item is split 50/50. So, if the necklace sold for a reasonable $60, youd make $20 (half of $60 minus the cost of the necklace). Do that just 10 times a week and youve got $200. The works hours are very flexible, too!You can buy tons of stuff on okay and have a bricks and mortar consignment business. Thats okay Flipping in a nutshell.Either way, I think you have a good idea. Hope this helps.
- Rob
Vintage Cobalt Glass Tray
This fabulous cobalt blue glass tray was given as a representatives award for selling Avons Moonwind cologne successfully. It came out in campaign 19 in 1971. For Moonwind Perfume. Stock Code #0586.
Decorated with a silvery image of the Goddess Diana and herborzoi in the center of the tray. Many times, this image gets worn away and can only been seen as a ghost image when held at a certain angle. The tray measures 12" x 9" and the glass is almost 1/4" thick. It has a blue glass handle on each side trimmed in silvertone. On the base are four feet, these should still be covered with their original protective rubber coatings. Sometimes, one can find the original box intact.
My grandmother sold Avon in the late 1960s up until the early 1980s, and she gave the vanity tray to my mother, she cherished this for many years, even when the Diana image faded away. She originally told me about the Avon history of the tray when we saw another one at an antique store, with a price tag of $125, and a claim that it was from the 1920s and was a rare Art Deco piece. She chuckled and said, well people dont know everything
Over the years on okay, I have seen this tray mistakenly sold as antique, 1920s and art deco. These sellers were unaware that this was a special piece by Avon. Hopefully people will see this guide and know the true facts of this tray. Some Evening in Paris collectors could use this tray to display the bottles beautifully as the colors are nearly identical.
Picture courtesy of okay user profs2
Showing tray,original box with original label.
Feel free to email me for details or any questions. I also have a perfume identification and appraisal service here on okay, click on my Mepage for details.Please see my site at www .freewebs. ge/cleopatrasboudoir
Check out the 200 guides
Decorated with a silvery image of the Goddess Diana and herborzoi in the center of the tray. Many times, this image gets worn away and can only been seen as a ghost image when held at a certain angle. The tray measures 12" x 9" and the glass is almost 1/4" thick. It has a blue glass handle on each side trimmed in silvertone. On the base are four feet, these should still be covered with their original protective rubber coatings. Sometimes, one can find the original box intact.
My grandmother sold Avon in the late 1960s up until the early 1980s, and she gave the vanity tray to my mother, she cherished this for many years, even when the Diana image faded away. She originally told me about the Avon history of the tray when we saw another one at an antique store, with a price tag of $125, and a claim that it was from the 1920s and was a rare Art Deco piece. She chuckled and said, well people dont know everything
Over the years on okay, I have seen this tray mistakenly sold as antique, 1920s and art deco. These sellers were unaware that this was a special piece by Avon. Hopefully people will see this guide and know the true facts of this tray. Some Evening in Paris collectors could use this tray to display the bottles beautifully as the colors are nearly identical.
Picture courtesy of okay user profs2
Showing tray,original box with original label.
Feel free to email me for details or any questions. I also have a perfume identification and appraisal service here on okay, click on my Mepage for details.Please see my site at www .freewebs. ge/cleopatrasboudoir
Check out the 200 guides
COLLECTING SCRIMSHAW
COLLECTING SCRIMSHAW
The biggest problem facing the collector of Scrimshaw pieces is the the market is flooded with FAKES! I would caution the buyer to BEWARE!
History: It was Norman Flayderman who defined scrimshaw as "the art of carving or otherwise fashioning useful or decorative articles as practiced by whalemen, sailors or other associated with nautical pursuits."
19th Century SCRIMSHAWS were made of several materials which included:
Ivory
The biggest problem facing the collector of Scrimshaw pieces is the the market is flooded with FAKES! I would caution the buyer to BEWARE!
History: It was Norman Flayderman who defined scrimshaw as "the art of carving or otherwise fashioning useful or decorative articles as practiced by whalemen, sailors or other associated with nautical pursuits."
19th Century SCRIMSHAWS were made of several materials which included:
Ivory
Phenterfein diet pill
I ordered Phenterfein through an okay seller. I used to take Phentermine (which maintained my weight at 123 lbs for about 5 years). I wanted to try Phenterfein to see if it worked better. I started to take the pills Dec. 20, 2006 and it's Jan. 3rd and so far I noticed an INCREASE in appetite (cravings for tomatoes, pizza) that kind of thing. It did cause diarrhea....is that what it's supposed to do???? I didn't feel any energy rushes (still sluggish). I will give it a chance and report back in about 2 weeks. I don't see ANY weight loss. If you plan to order this product, email me first, and I will be honest if it works or not. I have taken phenfen when it first came out and that worked so well. I was hoping this product was like phenfen.
10 Ways to Get the Most out of Your Workouts
10 Ways to Make Sure you Get the Most out of Your Workouts
1. Workout in the A.M. Morning workouts not only help you get your workout out of the way, but help get you energized for the upgeing day. Plus, you're guaranteed not to put it off.
2. Do what I do, and plan your workouts for the entire week on Sunday. Then keep your workout plans somewhere you'll always notice them (The fridge, your nightstand, hanging from the key rack, etc...) Youll be less likely to miss a workout if it's in your face all the time.
3. If you want to get the most done in the least amount of time, work on the 4 major muscle groups (Chest, Back, Legs, Core). Working these muscles will burn more calories in a shorter period of time. Do 3-5 circuits of Bench Press, Lunges, Pull-Ups/Pull-Downs, Squats, and Crunches.
4. Intensity, not time spent working out produces the best results. A 20-minute workout can be just as effective as a 45-minute workout if you push the pace.
5. Mini-Circuit workouts work wonders. I've produced the most success with trainees by using high-intensity, high-rep mini-circuits. Pick 4-8 exercises and geplete an entire circuit with very little rest, rest for 2-3 minutes and repeat. Mini-Circuits work very well because they build muscle and train the heart.
6. Always push yourself to be better next time you workout. Whether it is one more rep, or 2 1/2 more pounds, or 5 more minutes on the bike. The harder you push yourself, the easier your workouts begee.
7. Find a Fitness Buddy that you're not too close with. A friend of a friend or an acquaintance from work who you share a gemon fitness goal with. It's a lot harder to cancel a workout with somebody you're not gepletely gefortable with.
8. Set up Fitness Nights with Friends or Significant others. Spend your time walking or playing a sport. You'll burn calories and keep up with all your gossip at the same time.
9. Find ways to add a little more exercise time into every day. Aim for 4-5 hours of extra activity every week. Examples of this include taking the stairs everyday, parking further from your destination, standing while talking on the phone, and taking your dog all the way across the lawn to go to the bathroom.
10. If you need that little extra bit of motivation, offer yourself a prize, i.e. A new CD, a special treat, or even a day off. Anything that will get you up, going, and out the door.
I hope you've enjoyed this guide. Contact me with any question, gements, or ideas.
Thank you,
Randall, of Randalls-eBooks
IF YOU FIND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL PLEASE REMEMBER TO VOTE. Thank you.
P.S. This is the type of article you will find in my Monthly Fitness Newsletter. Check out my okay Store to find out more.
1. Workout in the A.M. Morning workouts not only help you get your workout out of the way, but help get you energized for the upgeing day. Plus, you're guaranteed not to put it off.
2. Do what I do, and plan your workouts for the entire week on Sunday. Then keep your workout plans somewhere you'll always notice them (The fridge, your nightstand, hanging from the key rack, etc...) Youll be less likely to miss a workout if it's in your face all the time.
3. If you want to get the most done in the least amount of time, work on the 4 major muscle groups (Chest, Back, Legs, Core). Working these muscles will burn more calories in a shorter period of time. Do 3-5 circuits of Bench Press, Lunges, Pull-Ups/Pull-Downs, Squats, and Crunches.
4. Intensity, not time spent working out produces the best results. A 20-minute workout can be just as effective as a 45-minute workout if you push the pace.
5. Mini-Circuit workouts work wonders. I've produced the most success with trainees by using high-intensity, high-rep mini-circuits. Pick 4-8 exercises and geplete an entire circuit with very little rest, rest for 2-3 minutes and repeat. Mini-Circuits work very well because they build muscle and train the heart.
6. Always push yourself to be better next time you workout. Whether it is one more rep, or 2 1/2 more pounds, or 5 more minutes on the bike. The harder you push yourself, the easier your workouts begee.
7. Find a Fitness Buddy that you're not too close with. A friend of a friend or an acquaintance from work who you share a gemon fitness goal with. It's a lot harder to cancel a workout with somebody you're not gepletely gefortable with.
8. Set up Fitness Nights with Friends or Significant others. Spend your time walking or playing a sport. You'll burn calories and keep up with all your gossip at the same time.
9. Find ways to add a little more exercise time into every day. Aim for 4-5 hours of extra activity every week. Examples of this include taking the stairs everyday, parking further from your destination, standing while talking on the phone, and taking your dog all the way across the lawn to go to the bathroom.
10. If you need that little extra bit of motivation, offer yourself a prize, i.e. A new CD, a special treat, or even a day off. Anything that will get you up, going, and out the door.
I hope you've enjoyed this guide. Contact me with any question, gements, or ideas.
Thank you,
Randall, of Randalls-eBooks
IF YOU FIND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL PLEASE REMEMBER TO VOTE. Thank you.
P.S. This is the type of article you will find in my Monthly Fitness Newsletter. Check out my okay Store to find out more.
How to buy vintage lingerie and foundations.
Once apon a time I was a so-so bookscout and I figure the world of vintage lingerie is like theworld of antiquarian and collectiblebooks in thatbooksof specific informtion are more valuable that broad generaltomes. Ambitious guides to vintage lingerie have been done ad nauseum on okay already, somepretty terrificand some terrible and everything in between. This guide will not tell you everything you ever wanted to know about your favorite hobby but If I've done what I set out to do, itwill help youshop on okay for your favorite authentic vintage lingerie pieces and foundation garments quickly and efficientlywhile avoiding condition issues, fakes andnew "vintage style" items. A collection offine vintage pieces is an investment and the beautiful bullet bras, panties, girdles, corsets, nightgowns, sets, slips and babydolls are fun to hunt down and scout out on okay and off. This is undie buying 101 and many of you old hands will have been doing this stuff long before I figured it out so you guys, just take what you need if anything and leave the rest ok?
Shopping effectively. Narrowing it down.
Every time we open an auction for a non vintage item, it takes time. Time wasted that could be spent looking at things wer'e really interested in - the fine, true vintage stuff.
Use the "advanced search" link under the regular okay search bar.
This opens a window giving you a miriad of search options that will help you narrow down the field. You can search by seller, by bidder (to see what your gepetitors have been buying and what theyve been paying), by gepleted auctions (by seller, bidder or general search tags). Example: on the advanced search page, type in "vintage rubber girdle" and then check the "gepleted auctions" box. You will see what the ending prices were for these pieces. Then try "vintage latex girdle" for any that were listed that way.
Getting the most bang for the buck. (The Bargain hunters zone)
Get creative and use your noggin. A high speed connection helps : ) You'll make yourself crazy waiting for auctions to load with dial-up. If you can afford it, Upgrade! It will pay off quickly in a burgeoning collection of the best of the best with less "filler". A few Examples to get you started: Search for "gridle" when shopping for girdles. Occasionally someone misspells it chances are no one elsewill find the "firm sexy gridle" auctionand you can snap up a bargain if its a good one. Try: vintage panty, vintage pantie, panties (of course) underpants etc.. when searching for vintage panties. Search Bra andbrassiere. You might not be able to find a great 50s bra in your size tonight to save your life but that stunning "vintage brassiere" might be one of those whatever-it-takes auctions : )
Use the "ask seller a question" link.
Read and look past the reams of sparkly pictures and gushy prose (yes,I was the firstgirdle gusher on the bay and am probably responsible for at least some of the craziness - sorry! I've been trying to tone it down. Maybe I need gushers annonymous??) and get to the meat of what the item is.
The big 5 to look for: Vintage, condition, size, label and measurements. Aproximately how old it is, or even year of manufactor if known, what condition it's in (ask specific questions if the description is vague like "great vintage condition!" or "wonderful condition for age", the brand/label/size and the measurements.
NWT doesn't nessesarily mean pristine/new looking. Sometime vintage deadstock or nwt items have been stored badly. They can have age spotting, rust spots and other storage discoloration from many sources. If it doesnt say and you can't tell from the picture, or you don't know the seller ( or know them but don't trust them lol -oops. did i actually write that down? Boy am I naughty. Anyway, you get the point. Use the ASQ link and be specific if you have any concerns or questions about the piece.
I've heard some folks say that vintage bras were bigger than today's bras. Some others say that theywere smaller. I think they're both right. The cups of a 50s-60s bullet bra are usually larger but the band size is usually smaller. Of course with some brands the opposite is true : ) Ha ha! tricked ya! Use the ASQ and GET MEASUREMENTS - and know yours. I wear a 34B in todays bras and can often wear a 36- 38A (if i can find one) in a vintage bra. Small breasted women didn't exist for some gepanys back then or at least they didn't think there were enough of us shopping to bother making bras that fit us : (
Slips: Newer slips nearly always have plastic shoulder sliders. Ask the seller if the sliders are metal. If they are, you know youre bidding on a slip at least 20 years old.
Babydoll sets.Almost all 60s babydoll sets are 3 pieces, panty,nightie and topper or robe/peignoir. The nightie is awesome. The nightie with her matching peignoir is even better but add the panties too - heaven! The panties that originally went with these sets were nearly always bikinis, hipsters or pouffy high waisted undies with the ruffled leg. A classic brief is possible but very rare. If you see a black set with a brief, it's very possible,even likely,that the panty isn't original to the set. But be careful especially when buying the black sets /- nightie/panties or nightie/robe/panties. .. If you look carefully andhave had 100s of these sets in the hand over the years, you will see in some auctions the panties don't match the set. Any old black vintage panties have been added to a black babydoll nightie to create a set which is of course worth much more than the nightie alone. Use the AKQ link and ask if it's possiblethe panties are not original to the set. When worded this way you can usually ferret out the real deal with the set. They will concede that it's possible that they aren't the original panties.
So, if you haven't been, using the Ask Seller a Question link can really save you from some bad purchases and enrich your okay buying experience and enhance your collection!
THIS GUIDE IS STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE FORGIVE ANY TYPOS ETC.. PLEASE EMAIL W/SUGGESTIONS, HINTS, IDEAS... THANKS GIRLIEGIRLS. CHERRY
Shopping effectively. Narrowing it down.
Every time we open an auction for a non vintage item, it takes time. Time wasted that could be spent looking at things wer'e really interested in - the fine, true vintage stuff.
Use the "advanced search" link under the regular okay search bar.
This opens a window giving you a miriad of search options that will help you narrow down the field. You can search by seller, by bidder (to see what your gepetitors have been buying and what theyve been paying), by gepleted auctions (by seller, bidder or general search tags). Example: on the advanced search page, type in "vintage rubber girdle" and then check the "gepleted auctions" box. You will see what the ending prices were for these pieces. Then try "vintage latex girdle" for any that were listed that way.
Getting the most bang for the buck. (The Bargain hunters zone)
Get creative and use your noggin. A high speed connection helps : ) You'll make yourself crazy waiting for auctions to load with dial-up. If you can afford it, Upgrade! It will pay off quickly in a burgeoning collection of the best of the best with less "filler". A few Examples to get you started: Search for "gridle" when shopping for girdles. Occasionally someone misspells it chances are no one elsewill find the "firm sexy gridle" auctionand you can snap up a bargain if its a good one. Try: vintage panty, vintage pantie, panties (of course) underpants etc.. when searching for vintage panties. Search Bra andbrassiere. You might not be able to find a great 50s bra in your size tonight to save your life but that stunning "vintage brassiere" might be one of those whatever-it-takes auctions : )
Use the "ask seller a question" link.
Read and look past the reams of sparkly pictures and gushy prose (yes,I was the firstgirdle gusher on the bay and am probably responsible for at least some of the craziness - sorry! I've been trying to tone it down. Maybe I need gushers annonymous??) and get to the meat of what the item is.
The big 5 to look for: Vintage, condition, size, label and measurements. Aproximately how old it is, or even year of manufactor if known, what condition it's in (ask specific questions if the description is vague like "great vintage condition!" or "wonderful condition for age", the brand/label/size and the measurements.
NWT doesn't nessesarily mean pristine/new looking. Sometime vintage deadstock or nwt items have been stored badly. They can have age spotting, rust spots and other storage discoloration from many sources. If it doesnt say and you can't tell from the picture, or you don't know the seller ( or know them but don't trust them lol -oops. did i actually write that down? Boy am I naughty. Anyway, you get the point. Use the ASQ link and be specific if you have any concerns or questions about the piece.
I've heard some folks say that vintage bras were bigger than today's bras. Some others say that theywere smaller. I think they're both right. The cups of a 50s-60s bullet bra are usually larger but the band size is usually smaller. Of course with some brands the opposite is true : ) Ha ha! tricked ya! Use the ASQ and GET MEASUREMENTS - and know yours. I wear a 34B in todays bras and can often wear a 36- 38A (if i can find one) in a vintage bra. Small breasted women didn't exist for some gepanys back then or at least they didn't think there were enough of us shopping to bother making bras that fit us : (
Slips: Newer slips nearly always have plastic shoulder sliders. Ask the seller if the sliders are metal. If they are, you know youre bidding on a slip at least 20 years old.
Babydoll sets.Almost all 60s babydoll sets are 3 pieces, panty,nightie and topper or robe/peignoir. The nightie is awesome. The nightie with her matching peignoir is even better but add the panties too - heaven! The panties that originally went with these sets were nearly always bikinis, hipsters or pouffy high waisted undies with the ruffled leg. A classic brief is possible but very rare. If you see a black set with a brief, it's very possible,even likely,that the panty isn't original to the set. But be careful especially when buying the black sets /- nightie/panties or nightie/robe/panties. .. If you look carefully andhave had 100s of these sets in the hand over the years, you will see in some auctions the panties don't match the set. Any old black vintage panties have been added to a black babydoll nightie to create a set which is of course worth much more than the nightie alone. Use the AKQ link and ask if it's possiblethe panties are not original to the set. When worded this way you can usually ferret out the real deal with the set. They will concede that it's possible that they aren't the original panties.
So, if you haven't been, using the Ask Seller a Question link can really save you from some bad purchases and enrich your okay buying experience and enhance your collection!
THIS GUIDE IS STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE FORGIVE ANY TYPOS ETC.. PLEASE EMAIL W/SUGGESTIONS, HINTS, IDEAS... THANKS GIRLIEGIRLS. CHERRY
Insurance and Damaged Items
Many sellers will state in their writeup, especially on large ticket items, that you have to file a claim if damage occurs.. I would suggest avoiding sellers who state this procedure.JUST BECAUSE YOU BUY INSURANCE DOESN'T MEAN YOU WILL GET REIMBURSED. And with an expensive item there are strict packaging procedures. If not followed you will not be reimbursed partially or fully. Shippersnormallydeny it is their fault and many times it is not..And the number one problem is that ALL INSURANCE CLAIMS ARE BASED ON HOW WELL THE ITEM IS PACKAGED. Now who's responsibility is that? The shipper. So when they say you handle all claim, you are in for a huge headache and a battle to get your money back. AVOID THOSE SELLERS! I sell large ticket items and if a damage occurs, I handle everything and you are reimbursed. The problem is mine and not yours. And if I didn't package it up to Shipping Standards then that is my fault.
A Snowthrower Buyer's Guide
It's inevitable. The snow season is on its way. Now is the time to decide how you're going to handle what Mother Nature dishes out. If you're in the market for a new snowthrower, there's a lot to consider. Be sure to think about the size of your driveway or walkway, the type of surface you're clearing, and the type of snow you'll be handling before you buy.
For homeowners who are just clearing a sidewalk or short driveway, an electric snowthrower can be a good solution. Electric snowthrowers are convenient because you just plug them in and go. They don't require any gas or oil. Plus, they are lightweight and easy to use.
For an average, paved driveway, a single stage snowthrower may be the way to go. Single stage snowthrowers have only one point of contact with the snow. They have a rubber-tipped rotor that scoops the snow from the pavement and throws it out the chute. They're fast, lightweight and easy to maneuver. Look for machines with rotors that propel the machine forward and clean right down to the pavement. One thing to keep in mind: if you have a driveway or walkway that isn't paved, a single stage snowthrower is NOT for you.
For larger, gravel driveways, big snowdrifts or gepacted snow a powerful two stage snowthrower is the perfect choice. Two stage machines have two points of contact with the snow. First an auger breaks up the snow, than an impeller throws it out the chute. Many models feature a number of forward and reverse speeds, wide clearing widths and guaranteed performance.
For homeowners who are just clearing a sidewalk or short driveway, an electric snowthrower can be a good solution. Electric snowthrowers are convenient because you just plug them in and go. They don't require any gas or oil. Plus, they are lightweight and easy to use.
For an average, paved driveway, a single stage snowthrower may be the way to go. Single stage snowthrowers have only one point of contact with the snow. They have a rubber-tipped rotor that scoops the snow from the pavement and throws it out the chute. They're fast, lightweight and easy to maneuver. Look for machines with rotors that propel the machine forward and clean right down to the pavement. One thing to keep in mind: if you have a driveway or walkway that isn't paved, a single stage snowthrower is NOT for you.
For larger, gravel driveways, big snowdrifts or gepacted snow a powerful two stage snowthrower is the perfect choice. Two stage machines have two points of contact with the snow. First an auger breaks up the snow, than an impeller throws it out the chute. Many models feature a number of forward and reverse speeds, wide clearing widths and guaranteed performance.
BEWARE of Laptop from CSR technologies!!!
CSR technologies stated on there bidding site that their laptop included ram of 256mb, but really they are selling laptop that is ONLY 64mb. These people should not posted incorrect information on their bidding site. I was planning to buy a laptop on there site, until one of my friend told me that he had bought a laptop from CSR technology and recieve a laptop of 64mb only. He say when he received the laptop and started it up, it was REALLY slow, and ask his older brother to look at the laptop to see if there was something wrong with the laptop. He soon found out that the laptop only have ram of 64mb. He tried to called CSR technologies back regarding this matter and all they can say it that he must have taken out the ram himself and if he wants them to determine if he did or did not take out the ram, he must resend it laptop back at his our COST. This did not only happen once, I have also gee across many that say the same about this gepany. I want to let those who are planning to buy laptop to beware of CSR technologies. Please do your research before getting yourself into something that will cost you more than you're actually bidding for.
Why Buy A Platform Bed?
Are you considering purchasing a platform bed? If so, we can assure you that platform beds have gee a long way since their original introduction as an economical means of raising a mattress off of the floor. Available in a multitude of styles, sizes, and materials, these versatile beds are enjoying renewed popularity right now.
So Why Buy a Platform Bed?
Platforms gee in a Wide Selection of Styles: Though once considered strictly modern, platform beds are now available in styles ranging from traditional to country to cottage, and in metal, wood, and more economical wood products.
Platforms are gefortable: Now that mattresses in all feels are so supportive, well-padded, and thick, there is very little need for a boxspring. You can sleep gefortably and soundly on only your mattress.
Platforms are Easy to Move: Without the hassle of moving a boxspring, platforms are ideal for apartment living or any short-term situation. Make sure to take a look at our selection of UPSable platform beds if you are interested in lightweight, easily-moveable options.
Platforms are Healthy: Boxsprings are a huge dust/dust mite harbor. In general, people with allergies are better off avoiding the extra breeding ground for mites that boxsprings can provide.
Platforms are Cost Effective: By buying just a mattress rather than a mattress and boxspring set, you can save hundreds of dollars!
Platforms Provide Extra Storage: Many platform beds have the option of matching storage drawers that are built-in beneath the bed. These beds are perfect for teenagers, college students, or anyone that would like to avoid vacuuming beneath the bed!
Platforms Make your Room Look Bigger: By not having the bed so high, you create more open sight-lines and the appearance of a larger, more open room.
So Why Buy a Platform Bed?
Platforms gee in a Wide Selection of Styles: Though once considered strictly modern, platform beds are now available in styles ranging from traditional to country to cottage, and in metal, wood, and more economical wood products.
Platforms are gefortable: Now that mattresses in all feels are so supportive, well-padded, and thick, there is very little need for a boxspring. You can sleep gefortably and soundly on only your mattress.
Platforms are Easy to Move: Without the hassle of moving a boxspring, platforms are ideal for apartment living or any short-term situation. Make sure to take a look at our selection of UPSable platform beds if you are interested in lightweight, easily-moveable options.
Platforms are Healthy: Boxsprings are a huge dust/dust mite harbor. In general, people with allergies are better off avoiding the extra breeding ground for mites that boxsprings can provide.
Platforms are Cost Effective: By buying just a mattress rather than a mattress and boxspring set, you can save hundreds of dollars!
Platforms Provide Extra Storage: Many platform beds have the option of matching storage drawers that are built-in beneath the bed. These beds are perfect for teenagers, college students, or anyone that would like to avoid vacuuming beneath the bed!
Platforms Make your Room Look Bigger: By not having the bed so high, you create more open sight-lines and the appearance of a larger, more open room.
Best nVidia 79xx Graphics Card
Because I am a hardcore fan of 3D video games (PC), I know something about video cards. I really like to share it with people here. Personally, I like nVidia cards (ATI guys, don't be nervous, I just said "PERSONALLY") because I had bad experiences with ATI drivers before. And ATI driver is still a big problem all the time. You may think driver is not important, I will tell you it is wrong. Driver serves as the connection between raw hardware and all other software (DirectX for example) that uses the hardware. A bad driver could make the performanceof thehardwaredown to 50%. You may think you've bought a powerful monster, and then the bad driver makes it a dwarf. That happens.
Ok, anyway, let's back to nVidia cards. The newest series is the 7 series. I only care about the high end cards or 7900 and 7950 series. If you want to buy any card(s) in that catagory, here is the list of cards sorted by
performance:
2x 7900 GTX(GTO) in SLI
Ok, anyway, let's back to nVidia cards. The newest series is the 7 series. I only care about the high end cards or 7900 and 7950 series. If you want to buy any card(s) in that catagory, here is the list of cards sorted by
performance:
2x 7900 GTX(GTO) in SLI
The Top 10 Must Have Style Fashion Trends of the Season
The Best Top 10 Must Have Style Trends of the Season
There are plenty of tempting trends to choose from this season! It actually can be a bit overwhelming. The most important rule is to determine your style and then pick the trends that you will feel gefortable in. Just pick one or two trends to mix in with your classic pieces for each outfit. Dont dress head to toe in trends. And remember in order to dress to impress you have to feel good in what you are wearing!
I own a boutique and I have done the research on trends for the season. To help you narrow down what to trends to choose from here are Bella Jules picks. All the below trends will be available at my okay store, Bella Jules Fashion Boutique
Top 10 Essentials
#1 Coveted CoatMake a strong first impression and invest in a statement coat. It is most your frequently worn staple and people see it first.
Try these styles1.Peacoats- New styles have a fresh spin on the classic styling. 2.Down- These jackets have been reinvented. Cuts make you look slim not puffy.3.Trenches-The belt is an easy way to create an hourglass figure.4.Little Coats- Pair these coats that have volume on top with narrow pants.5.Capelets-Very modern and dramatic and can be put over anything.
Look for these coats in military styling, menswear patterns, with faux fur accents or great detailing.
Check out coats/jackets by French Connection, Kenneth Cole, To the Max, and Black Rivet.
#2 DressesA dress is a timeless silhouette that is always chic. Perfect for office, weekends, or holiday parties. No thought involved, just throw on and you are ready to go looking smart and sexy.
Try these styles1.Day dresses- Try on the many versions including wrap, sweater, shirt, and shift.2.Empire waist dresses- These are very gefortable and flattering. Hides tummy and hip flaws.3.Mini Dresses- These dresses are fun and flirty. Wear with leggings or jeans4.Cocktail Dresses-Choose a dress that is elegant not flashy. A little black dress is classic but if you want to stop traffic go with color like with a little red dress.
Check out dresses by T-bags, Akiko, 12th St by Cynthia Vincent, To the Max, Muchacha, and French Connection.
#3 BlousesAdd a touch of romance to your wardrobe. The blouses this season are flowing with ruffles, lace, bows, and ruching. Try in wraps, button downs, smock tops, empire waists, and classic collars. Polish off the look with a narrow pant.
Check out blouses from To the Max, Persamen, and Shirt.
#4 Skinny JeansDenim has turned skinny and yes they can work on many different body types. Try the tapered slim fit leg or the straight leg jeans. Dark washes are best. Go for classic blue or try the new gray or black washes. Pair these jeans with tunics or layer with long cozy sweaters.
Check out jeans from Paige Premium Denim, Wrangler, 575 Denim, and J
There are plenty of tempting trends to choose from this season! It actually can be a bit overwhelming. The most important rule is to determine your style and then pick the trends that you will feel gefortable in. Just pick one or two trends to mix in with your classic pieces for each outfit. Dont dress head to toe in trends. And remember in order to dress to impress you have to feel good in what you are wearing!
I own a boutique and I have done the research on trends for the season. To help you narrow down what to trends to choose from here are Bella Jules picks. All the below trends will be available at my okay store, Bella Jules Fashion Boutique
Top 10 Essentials
#1 Coveted CoatMake a strong first impression and invest in a statement coat. It is most your frequently worn staple and people see it first.
Try these styles1.Peacoats- New styles have a fresh spin on the classic styling. 2.Down- These jackets have been reinvented. Cuts make you look slim not puffy.3.Trenches-The belt is an easy way to create an hourglass figure.4.Little Coats- Pair these coats that have volume on top with narrow pants.5.Capelets-Very modern and dramatic and can be put over anything.
Look for these coats in military styling, menswear patterns, with faux fur accents or great detailing.
Check out coats/jackets by French Connection, Kenneth Cole, To the Max, and Black Rivet.
#2 DressesA dress is a timeless silhouette that is always chic. Perfect for office, weekends, or holiday parties. No thought involved, just throw on and you are ready to go looking smart and sexy.
Try these styles1.Day dresses- Try on the many versions including wrap, sweater, shirt, and shift.2.Empire waist dresses- These are very gefortable and flattering. Hides tummy and hip flaws.3.Mini Dresses- These dresses are fun and flirty. Wear with leggings or jeans4.Cocktail Dresses-Choose a dress that is elegant not flashy. A little black dress is classic but if you want to stop traffic go with color like with a little red dress.
Check out dresses by T-bags, Akiko, 12th St by Cynthia Vincent, To the Max, Muchacha, and French Connection.
#3 BlousesAdd a touch of romance to your wardrobe. The blouses this season are flowing with ruffles, lace, bows, and ruching. Try in wraps, button downs, smock tops, empire waists, and classic collars. Polish off the look with a narrow pant.
Check out blouses from To the Max, Persamen, and Shirt.
#4 Skinny JeansDenim has turned skinny and yes they can work on many different body types. Try the tapered slim fit leg or the straight leg jeans. Dark washes are best. Go for classic blue or try the new gray or black washes. Pair these jeans with tunics or layer with long cozy sweaters.
Check out jeans from Paige Premium Denim, Wrangler, 575 Denim, and J
LOWRANCE 104C, 110C, 111C
You will notice several 24 hour listings for these high dollar fish finders. They will always have a buy it now price that is $400 - $700 dollars and ask to e-mail them for details. You always get the same excuses (Paypal account locked), (Out of the country and need cash) etc.. They always ask you to "wire" them the money asap. DON'T BUY INTO IT ITS ALL FRAUD!!
Televison Coin Shows!
This is a brief guide to purchasing Coins or other collectibles from a Television shopping network or show. Unfortunatly there are many uninformed people who are willing to believe what these hosts say and show on there shows. There are many times the items they are showing the viewer are of better quality than the item you will receive. Now this is not a large concern as many of the coins and bullion they offer is slabbed by one of the three top grading gepanies.ICG ,PCGS , andNGC . We have yet to seeANACS orNTC coins offered on these channels. Many of these coins are sold at more than double their retail value. Due to numbers that are quoted by the hosts, sometimes related to other coins or even over priced coins sold elsewhere, these items can sound like great deal. The best defense to these onslaughts of misinformation is to educate yourself. Invest in either a recent periodical of coin prices such as Coin Magazine, or a2007 Whitman's Red Book of retail coin prices. If you don't have the time log on to the internet and view the price quotes at www.pcgs.ge. Yet another trick of these sellers is to offer coins of a series in a particular grade yet not specify the year or mint you will receive. Take for instance if you bought a pre-21Morgan in MS64 by NGC for $150. While advertising this item they showed a hand full of slabs such as 1891 and the 1885-S. Both a resonable price to pay. Unfortunately the actual coin you may receive could be an 1884-O or an 1888 both with a retail three times less than the price paid. This is just an example of a crooked misrepresntation you may view on one of these networks. Another grave and unforgivable means of robbing people of there money is the Gold 'layered' and Platinum series Statehood Quarters.First things first 'layered' actually means plated which also means very little almost no gold. The Platinum Series has also been tested and found to contain no platinum at all. Here's the key to this. If a coin is not the same metal make up as when it leaves the US Mint it's actual worth is probably the face value of the coin. Another tool is to view the US mint web site and see if a coin set has actually been issued by them in the material offered. In this case Silver is the only other metal the Statehood Quarters have been made in beyond their circulation alloy gebination. Over all it is a shame that these gepanies are able to continue to swindel the public and unassuming investors. Many people have been dupped by these'crooks'. The have actually hurt the numismatic hobby in many respects. One being many people start to believe that all dealers are crooked. They have found ways to get around the false advertising. The only defense against them is to inform yourself and let those around you know that they need to seek the appropriate information before proceeding to buy or invest in precious metals or coins.
COMPLETE LIST OF_MARY HIGGINS CLARKS BOOKS
A gePLETE LIST OF MARY HIGGINS CLARK BOOKS
~~~~~~~IF THIS GUIDE IS HELPFUL, THEN CLICK YES BELOW TO LET ME KNOW~~~~~~~
Book List
~~~~~~~IF THIS GUIDE IS HELPFUL, THEN CLICK YES BELOW TO LET ME KNOW~~~~~~~
Book List
Cateye Micro Wireless Bicycle Computer
The Cateye Micro Wireless Bicycle geputer has been the best wireless geputer on the market for 2006 and 2007. I have sold over 1000 of these geputers with less than one percent failure. The simple to install, durable and fully featured Bicycle geputer works great. I would recgeend this item to anyone who rides a bike.
Friday, September 9, 2011
Why bronzer? Why not bronzer??
After all, who wouldn't want to make her face look thinner, her skin glowing, and her face sun-kissed? All that is what bronzer can do for you - and more! But how do you buy it and use it?
The first thing you must do is to do some investigating. Shop around, gepare prices and styles. Some bronzers are golden-tinted, while others are more brown-based or even faintly rose. Many will also have a shimmery, almost metallicgold look, which adds to the "sun-kissed" effect. You will need to check and see what looks best on your skin. This is why it is best to go to a makeup counter to try various colors. You will want to test bronzers just as you would foundations, so having access to samples will help you make decisions on what will look best with your skin. Once you find a shade that fits, look around for a quality bronzer in that shade with a price that fits within your budget. You don't need the really expensive types, either. You can find quality bronzers from L'Oreal or Physicians Formula that will give you the sun-kissed glow you are looking for.
Once you buy it, you'll need to also have a blush brush. A nice round brush will give you great coverage, just as it does with blush. Tap the brush lightly on the powder until a good amount of bronzer is on the brush. Sweep the brush from below the cheekbone, in the hollow of your cheek, up to the temple. Make sure the edges are blended into your skin. Check the effect in different lights - natural, incandescent, flourescent - to make sure you have blended it in properly. You don't want a streak of telltale powder; you want to look like your skin is bronzed from the sun. Repeat on the other cheek. You can also add a faint dusting of powder on forehead and chin, or across the bridge of your nose. You'll want to be careful, though. Too much, and it doesn't look natural. You just want to look like you're glowing, not like you're radioactive!
If you've never tried bronzer, you may want to give it a try. Whether you want to try to extend a "summer tan" look, or add a slight glow to your face, bronzer is the product for you!
The first thing you must do is to do some investigating. Shop around, gepare prices and styles. Some bronzers are golden-tinted, while others are more brown-based or even faintly rose. Many will also have a shimmery, almost metallicgold look, which adds to the "sun-kissed" effect. You will need to check and see what looks best on your skin. This is why it is best to go to a makeup counter to try various colors. You will want to test bronzers just as you would foundations, so having access to samples will help you make decisions on what will look best with your skin. Once you find a shade that fits, look around for a quality bronzer in that shade with a price that fits within your budget. You don't need the really expensive types, either. You can find quality bronzers from L'Oreal or Physicians Formula that will give you the sun-kissed glow you are looking for.
Once you buy it, you'll need to also have a blush brush. A nice round brush will give you great coverage, just as it does with blush. Tap the brush lightly on the powder until a good amount of bronzer is on the brush. Sweep the brush from below the cheekbone, in the hollow of your cheek, up to the temple. Make sure the edges are blended into your skin. Check the effect in different lights - natural, incandescent, flourescent - to make sure you have blended it in properly. You don't want a streak of telltale powder; you want to look like your skin is bronzed from the sun. Repeat on the other cheek. You can also add a faint dusting of powder on forehead and chin, or across the bridge of your nose. You'll want to be careful, though. Too much, and it doesn't look natural. You just want to look like you're glowing, not like you're radioactive!
If you've never tried bronzer, you may want to give it a try. Whether you want to try to extend a "summer tan" look, or add a slight glow to your face, bronzer is the product for you!
How to snipe s auctions. Win by sniping. Fair play?
The first thing that gees to mind when talking about sniping is whether it is considered fair and honest. There are always many ways to view things, but we will say that it does not even remotely bother us if a buyer uses sniping software to win one of our auctions.
It is just another tool at your disposal. Also, when a person snipes an auction they have entered a maximum bid amount, just as you have the option to do when placing your bid the traditional way through okay during an auction.
It is understandable that a person who waits until the last seconds of an auction to bid might be distressed when they discover they where outbid during one of those last secondsby someone who was obviously using sniping software, but remember they won not because of the sniping software, but because they placed a higher maximum bid than you.
Also, waiting until the last seconds of an auction to bid is actually just manual sniping without using the additional sniping software. Manual snipers have many techniques also, such as opening multiple browser windows, with some windows used to bid, and another browser window being continually refreshed to keep an eye on the current price while waiting for the attack.
Also, notice that a huge percentage of okay users wait until near the auction end to place their bids in hopes of not driving the price up, so realistically, many may prefer to manually bid their best price as the auction progresses, and it does seem more gentlemen like, but this will not change the fact that many others will wait until the last seconds of an auction, in hope of saving a dollar,by placing the winning bid at the lowest amount, at the last possible second.
Really sniping is justentering a maximum price youare willing to pay for an item in the sniping software while lettingthe softwaretake it over from there. The difference being that it (the sniping software) will not battle with the highest bidders until the last seconds of the auction. This way if you are busy at the time the seller chose to close the auction, your bid will still go in.
In these last seconds of the auction a person isonly going to have the time to bid once, and though one could just do a single high bid, that would not be a thrifty way to try for the win. Instead a single bid, with a high as one is willing to pay, maximum bid attached to it will only win by one bid increment over the last highest maximumbid. Same as with the sniping software.
Last time we checked the bid increments were:
$0.01 - 0.99 $0.05
It is just another tool at your disposal. Also, when a person snipes an auction they have entered a maximum bid amount, just as you have the option to do when placing your bid the traditional way through okay during an auction.
It is understandable that a person who waits until the last seconds of an auction to bid might be distressed when they discover they where outbid during one of those last secondsby someone who was obviously using sniping software, but remember they won not because of the sniping software, but because they placed a higher maximum bid than you.
Also, waiting until the last seconds of an auction to bid is actually just manual sniping without using the additional sniping software. Manual snipers have many techniques also, such as opening multiple browser windows, with some windows used to bid, and another browser window being continually refreshed to keep an eye on the current price while waiting for the attack.
Also, notice that a huge percentage of okay users wait until near the auction end to place their bids in hopes of not driving the price up, so realistically, many may prefer to manually bid their best price as the auction progresses, and it does seem more gentlemen like, but this will not change the fact that many others will wait until the last seconds of an auction, in hope of saving a dollar,by placing the winning bid at the lowest amount, at the last possible second.
Really sniping is justentering a maximum price youare willing to pay for an item in the sniping software while lettingthe softwaretake it over from there. The difference being that it (the sniping software) will not battle with the highest bidders until the last seconds of the auction. This way if you are busy at the time the seller chose to close the auction, your bid will still go in.
In these last seconds of the auction a person isonly going to have the time to bid once, and though one could just do a single high bid, that would not be a thrifty way to try for the win. Instead a single bid, with a high as one is willing to pay, maximum bid attached to it will only win by one bid increment over the last highest maximumbid. Same as with the sniping software.
Last time we checked the bid increments were:
$0.01 - 0.99 $0.05
Filining a dispute on s
Over the months I have learned far more than I really wanted to know about filing Disputes on okay, what I have learned I was amazed that some people did not know even people that have been here longer than myself.When yo open a dispute with a buyer/seller it will stay down on the left side of your main okay screen under Dispute Console you may at anytime click on that Dispute console and see how things are going.. The first step will be to file the geplaint, you will see a white check mark next to the dispute afterthat meaning its pending.. then the start of the long 7 day wait gees. you may write in that response area everyday every hour if you wish. the person does not have to respond. thats fine, after about 8-10 days the check mark should turn blue meaning okay has made a ruling LOL but it usually does not. after ten day you have the option to hit the close dispute button and 3 questions will pop up. IF the other party did not answr you at all just jit could not work this out. and hit closed. you will see a gren arrow in front of the now old dispute. meaning your fees were returned. make sureto add in your begining remarks to okay that if this party does not geply and you do win you would like a strike given to them apon the ending of this mattter.. NOW heres the tricky part. okay will NEVER close a case for you.. IF you wait more than 30 day your out of luck so stay on this.. YOU must close this case on your own. and give reasons why. then and only then will okay grant you your fee return. I hope this helps . I had to find out all this the hard way.
Pocket Watch Sizes And How To Measure A Movement.
At the bottom of this article you will find a link that shows a detailed chart of watch sizes.
The Lancashire gauge for determining watch sizes is of English origin and is the standard gemonly used by American watch manufacturers. By this system 1 5/30 inches was taken as a basing figure and was called naught (0) size. Every 1/30 of an inch added increased the size one number, every subtraction of 1/30 of an inch decreased the size one number. The size of a watch is determined by its width through the center at the narrowest part of the dial side of the lower plate. The table below shows Lancashire gauge watch sizes in terms of fractions of inches, decimal inches, lignes and millimeters.
You have all heard that a watch is called a 16 size, 18 size or even a 6/0 size. But what does this really mean in terms that we can understand? There are two ways that watches are measured to determine its size. There is the American movement sizes based on the Lancashire Gauge. The chart below uses that system as it is the most gemon one in use.The next system was the Ligne system which was a Swiss system based on the decimal system. Most wrist watches are measured using this millimeter and decimal system. For example a 10 Ligne watch would be a gents size wrist watch and a 5 Ligne watch would be a small ladies size wrist watch.Now where do you measure from on the watch. For an accurate measurement, the movement should be removed from the watch case. People that deal with watches daily can look at them and know the size without measuring.Now that the movement has been removed from the watch case, you simply measure the diameter of the main pillar plate of the watch. The pillar plate holds the dial. Care must be taken to NOT measure the dial, but make your measurement just below the dial. Now that you have the measurement either in Inches or Millimeters you can observe the chart at Antique Time and determine the size of your watch.The number under size will be a number like 20, 18, 16, etc. Next you will have the size in inches. This is a 1 followed by a fraction such as 1 25/30. Next you will have the Millimeter size of the watch. This is a number such as 46.56.
geparative values of standards of measurement. 1 inch equals 25.4 millimeters, 1 millimeter equals .03937 inches, and 1 ligne equals 2.25 millimeters.
horologist.ge/watch_sizes.htm
Visit Horologist Dot ge under Watch Sizes For The geplete Chart of Sizes.
The Lancashire gauge for determining watch sizes is of English origin and is the standard gemonly used by American watch manufacturers. By this system 1 5/30 inches was taken as a basing figure and was called naught (0) size. Every 1/30 of an inch added increased the size one number, every subtraction of 1/30 of an inch decreased the size one number. The size of a watch is determined by its width through the center at the narrowest part of the dial side of the lower plate. The table below shows Lancashire gauge watch sizes in terms of fractions of inches, decimal inches, lignes and millimeters.
You have all heard that a watch is called a 16 size, 18 size or even a 6/0 size. But what does this really mean in terms that we can understand? There are two ways that watches are measured to determine its size. There is the American movement sizes based on the Lancashire Gauge. The chart below uses that system as it is the most gemon one in use.The next system was the Ligne system which was a Swiss system based on the decimal system. Most wrist watches are measured using this millimeter and decimal system. For example a 10 Ligne watch would be a gents size wrist watch and a 5 Ligne watch would be a small ladies size wrist watch.Now where do you measure from on the watch. For an accurate measurement, the movement should be removed from the watch case. People that deal with watches daily can look at them and know the size without measuring.Now that the movement has been removed from the watch case, you simply measure the diameter of the main pillar plate of the watch. The pillar plate holds the dial. Care must be taken to NOT measure the dial, but make your measurement just below the dial. Now that you have the measurement either in Inches or Millimeters you can observe the chart at Antique Time and determine the size of your watch.The number under size will be a number like 20, 18, 16, etc. Next you will have the size in inches. This is a 1 followed by a fraction such as 1 25/30. Next you will have the Millimeter size of the watch. This is a number such as 46.56.
geparative values of standards of measurement. 1 inch equals 25.4 millimeters, 1 millimeter equals .03937 inches, and 1 ligne equals 2.25 millimeters.
horologist.ge/watch_sizes.htm
Visit Horologist Dot ge under Watch Sizes For The geplete Chart of Sizes.
aurora monster model detailing
With the recent influx of so- called ' pro- built" models up for sale on okay I thought I might share some of my observations on the subject. Dry brushing ( the technique in which the paintbrush is dragged across the model surface with very little paint/moisture) is an important finishing technique. It renders minut surface details and brings them to the forground. The problem with this technique is that it can be used to the point of overkill. In my humble estimation, a pro-finished kit will utilize all and any of several techniques in conjuction with each other to present a superior finished model kit. The "WOW" factor, if you will. Lets take the Aurora Dracula model kit as an example.Dracula is a good example because it presents us with many different textures sculpted into the kit parts. My particular kit is the Glow in the dark version and I am endeavoring to build and finish it so the glow parts blend in the daylight AND the pieces will glow in the dark too. The glow pieces are "stained" with translucent washes of paint and wiped/ sanded so details remain and have a unique effect when viewed in the dark.The staining also makes the parts look presentable in the daylight as well. Getting back to the dry- brushing- Dracula`s clothing- that should really NEVER be dry- brushed unless you want to highlight heavily worn areas. Do you see people walking around with dry-brushed looking clothes on the street? NO!The grass on the Dracula kit is a good candidate for dry-brushing. Soil that is devoid of surface debri such as small rocks or pebbles should be painted wet-in wet since it is basically a uniformly textured surface. The rocks should be painted wet-in-wet and possibly "speckled" with a lighter shade splattered from a toothbrush- practice controling your paint"spatters" and you`ll be surprised at how effective this is. You can even "layer" spatters of different paint colors on the rocks. Get some reference from outside or from a National Geographic magazine. Rocks and stones gee in a nearly infinite variety of textures and colors- not just grey and brown .Remember NATURE should have a RANDOM look to it! Dry brushing every single detail on the kit will just work to make it ultimately look fake! This defeats the purpose of what a model is all about. The aim really should be to make it look as real as possible. Are any modelers familiar with the "wet in wet" technique of painting? Basically you just paint over areas that are still not dry yet.You can get superior blending and depth with this technique. It is more similar to airbrush than the dry-brush technique. I cannot stress the importance of minimizing and/or removing the seams via sanding and filling of the kit parts. No matter how intricate or fancy your paint work will be, if the parts are not rendered "seamless", your work will be substandard on every other level. Dry- brushing will enhance detail AND,thus, any seams of the plastic parts will be made more apparent. Texture on the dead tree is a perfect candidate for dry-brush technique. Rocks are perfect for washes( semi- transparent thin coats of paint applied over each other after dry so the previous colors still show through) and wet-in -wet technique. Gloss coating, like diluted acrylic floor wax is great to use on eyeballs, lips, fingernails. The cape was coated in a more diluted mix to give it a satin look to contrast with the flat texture of the pants and jacket. Let`s remember that Aurora encouraged us to" build and paint our kits any way we want" but modeling and painting techniques have gee a long way since the 1960`s and you modern modelers now have the abilitiy to make these old models look totally fabulous! DO IT!
G-Shock and Baby-G Japan Digital Sports Watches
When considering a state of the art digital or digital sports watch of instant recognition, cost performance, and durability, the Casio G-Shock is certainly worthy of your time. The features: anti-shock anti-gravity, dust-proofing, water-proofing, cold/heat-proofing use. Perfect for outdoor explorers, joggers, hikers, scuba divers, fishermen, rock climbers, swimmers, cyclers, geocachers, weekend warriors or all the other army of outdoor wantabees. These are truly watches to go anywhere, measure performance, environmental factors reliably and accurately, with the eye catching appeal of high tech. Beware of misleading imitation, non-Japanese, G-Shock Style, G Baby, Atomic, etc. watches often listed as new, and under $10, on okay. Many, if not most, are not Casio!In marked contrast to these, and most other digital sports watches, the main reason for the malfunction of the G-Shock watch remains: the failure or disinterest of the user to replace weak or expired batteries! It hasn`t damaged the image too badly also having Tom Cruise`s Ethan Hunt putting a solar-powered MT-G 911 to the test in the most recent Mission Impossible III movie, as well as other popular SF and adventure movies (often with the brand name hidden) as in Men in Black and Star Trek scenes.What are the features that have evolved most recently in G-Shock? These include: the high tide/ebb tide time display function (tide graph), temperature humidity measurement sensor (thermo- sensor), duplex liquid crystal, electro-luminescent (EL) backlight (black - 2 colors of red, reversible display ), the solar electric battery, flash alert, and lastly, the "atomic radio wave reception" or waveceptor function in 2003. Now, the core of the series, the "solar radio wave" watches in "The-G" series, and included for the first time in the summer of 2005, a cool new vibration flash feature.The G-Shock PVC resin also continues to evolve and improve as the logical, shock resistant, scratch resistant, and lightweight alternative to metals.* Unique Japanese product details, series names and function descriptions
in this guide includes contents of the G-SHOCK official Japanese home
page and are quoted in parenthesis.There is a general impression that the G-Shock brand has been relatively consistent, with a PVC resin made design and/or a metal band, but this overlooks the vast and colorful variation of the series all the way up to the superb model "MR-G" with sapphire glass cyrstal and titanium body, and the "L.X. (Elk X)" series with thick leather bands in 5600 models.G-Shock BackgroundIn 1981, Casio first began inventing a new kind of wristwatch, based on the "triple ten" concept: a 10 year battery life, 10 bar water resistance, and the ability to withstand the shock of a 10 meter freefall. This resulted in the "Gravity Shock" wristwatch, or G-shock series." [Source: Carlos Perez, Time-Zone], (August 2002). As originally designed, G-Shock timekeeping displays were digital with, or without an analog creative mechanism, intended to be sold at reasonable prices in Japan and eventually, exported all over the world.The Casio G-Shock brand first appeared in Japan in 1981 - a 25-year
history, that seems like just yesterday. In fact, the fire that ignited
G-Shock popularity began less than 10 years ago in Japan, when
the design of the G-Shock divers model first appeared. The first: the
"Supreme Headquarters Allied Powers, Europe", model originated from the
ID number, "5600". From this serial number, the fans of the G-Shock in
Japan first became conscious of the G-Shock as a "street fashion"
accessory.At the height of the diver style digital watch popularity, about 7 years ago, G-Shock introduced the "Town
in this guide includes contents of the G-SHOCK official Japanese home
page and are quoted in parenthesis.There is a general impression that the G-Shock brand has been relatively consistent, with a PVC resin made design and/or a metal band, but this overlooks the vast and colorful variation of the series all the way up to the superb model "MR-G" with sapphire glass cyrstal and titanium body, and the "L.X. (Elk X)" series with thick leather bands in 5600 models.G-Shock BackgroundIn 1981, Casio first began inventing a new kind of wristwatch, based on the "triple ten" concept: a 10 year battery life, 10 bar water resistance, and the ability to withstand the shock of a 10 meter freefall. This resulted in the "Gravity Shock" wristwatch, or G-shock series." [Source: Carlos Perez, Time-Zone], (August 2002). As originally designed, G-Shock timekeeping displays were digital with, or without an analog creative mechanism, intended to be sold at reasonable prices in Japan and eventually, exported all over the world.The Casio G-Shock brand first appeared in Japan in 1981 - a 25-year
history, that seems like just yesterday. In fact, the fire that ignited
G-Shock popularity began less than 10 years ago in Japan, when
the design of the G-Shock divers model first appeared. The first: the
"Supreme Headquarters Allied Powers, Europe", model originated from the
ID number, "5600". From this serial number, the fans of the G-Shock in
Japan first became conscious of the G-Shock as a "street fashion"
accessory.At the height of the diver style digital watch popularity, about 7 years ago, G-Shock introduced the "Town
Cleaning Coins - Why Not
Cleaning Coins - It's Often Better Not to Clean Coins, But How to Clean Them If You Must,How to Clean CoinsDon't!The best advice we can give for most people about cleaning coins is...don't!We see far more coins ruined by cleaning than we see coins which have been improved by cleaning.Generally speaking coins can not be improved by cleaning them. It is certainly impossible to improve their condition by doing so.We first saw this advice in 1962 edition of Seaby's Standard Catalogue, and it still appears in the same book today, although it is now published by Spink.If You Have To Ask - Definitely Do Not Clean Them!It's true that if you had to ask about cleaning your coins, how to, or whether to, then the best thing for you to do is nothing. Don't clean them. You will almost certainly not improve them, and you are much more likely to spoil them.We Occasionally Clean CoinsNever say never!We occasionally clean coins, but then we have been in the business for over 42 years, so we know which ones might benefit from careful cleaning, and which will not.We also know how to clean coins, and more importantly, how not to clean coins.Even though we never clean coins unnecessarily, we occasionally get it wrong, and end up with a worse-looking coin after we have cleaned it.If You Really Must - How To Clean CoinsFirst - Cleaning Gold Coins.Because gold is a noble metal, it is unlikely to begee discoloured. Wash carefully in warm, even boiling, soapy water (detergent is also OK). You may even brush it gently with a soft brush. Be careful, if there is any grit present it will make minute scratches on the surface. Silver Dip also seems surprisingly good for removing grease from the surface of gold coins.Cleaning Silver Coins.Silver acquires a tone through tarnishing. A pleasant, even tone can enhance the appearance and desirability of an old silver coin. Some toning has rich blue, green, indigo, and violet "oil effects", toning like this will be appreciated by most connoisseurs. Do not clean any silver coin with this type of toning.If a silver coin is so dark brown or black that its design can hardly be seen, then it may, be worth dipping, usually in a proprietary solution, such as Goddard's Silver Dip. If in any doubt, don't!Whatever you do, do not use any abrasive paste or cloth.Warm soapy water may also be used.Even if silver coins are carefully cleaned, they end up looking artificially bright and silvery. Many collectors will not buy a silver coins which looks as though it has been cleaned.Cleaning Copper and Bronze CoinsCopper and bronze coins usually look awful when they have been cleaned. They are more easily ruined than silver or gold coins. Once again, the best advice is do not clean copper or bronze coins. We often hear people say they have used Coca Cola or brown sauce; the former contains carbon dioxide (carbonic acid when in solution), the latter contains vinegar; both are weeak acids which react with some of the copper salts causing toning or verdigris. Use soap and water if you must.Leave It To The ExpertsUsually, the people who ask about cleaning coins are those who have recently acquired them. They may have found them in old drawer, or been left them in the estate of a relative or friend. Because they find them difficult to read, they assume that the coins need cleaning. It's much more likely that their glasses need cleaning.More often than not, right after we have finished telling these people not to clean the coins they have found, they ask us how to clean them anyway! It gets quite frustrating.Archaeologists, expert numismatists, metal detectorists usually learn which coins may benefit from cleaning, and how to do it. These people will often use an ultrasonic tank. This is not a magic device, it merely uses ultrasound waves to agitate the liquid in which the coins are immersed. This will often be soapy water, and nothing more. Sound waves are gentler than a soft brush.Many people now own miniature domestic ultrasonic tanks, sold for cleaning jewellery. Before you are tempted to clean your coins in such a tank, remember the advice we have repeatedly give above, if you are unsure - do not clean coins.Cleaning Coins Spoils the ToningAs we have said for silver coins, it is easy to spoil a pleasing tone, which may have taken centuries to be acquired. Copper and bronze coins will almost always end up looking a brassy unpleasant colour after cleaning. Even gold coins can sometimes be ruined by removing a rich tone which has built up over a long period of time.Avoid AbrasivesAs we have made clear above, one of the easiest way to spoil coins is to scratch or abrade their surfaces by using an abrasive. Most cleaning pastes, including toothpaste, contain abrasive. Any sort of rubbing action should also be avoided, whether using the fingers or a cloth, especially polishing cloths which are impregnated with any kind of cleaning material, and which are usually sold for polishing.Drying Coins After CleaningIf you simply have to clean coins after reading this, be careful when it gees to drying them. Any rubbing action will scratch them. Dabbing or patting dry with a clean towel will be the best.How Harmful Is Cleaning Coins?Over 90% of the coins brought in to us by non-collectors are junk. Even so, junk has a value, and the value will be greater if the coins have not been cleaned. Assume someone brought us a box of 100 mixed coins which we were prepared to pay 10 for, if they had been cleaned we would be less interested, and may only pay 5, so cleaning would have halved the potential value for the owner.Let's assume you found a mint condition1869 penny with its original mint lustre. For this great rarity, we would be happy to pay 1,000. If you cleaned the same penny with "Brasso", we would be reluctant to pay more than 100 for it. You would have destroyed about 90% of the coin's value by cleaning it. Author
SIX MILLION DOLLAR MAN - First Issue Action Figure
A Guide to the
Six Million Dollar Man
FIRST ISSUE ACTION FIGURE
This Guide is for information purposes only and should be used as such.
I will update this guide as needed and hope you will find it helpful in your searches for Bionic Toys from the popular shows.
First and formost, I would like to intorduce myself, My name is:
Mike Van Plew, milwaukeemachineman
I have collected the bionic toys for over 30 years and have written numerous articles on the Bionic Toys for such magazines as Lee's Toy Review and Action Figure Digest, Plus being named in several books about all action figures. I have even been on national television for my collection.
I will start off with the first issue of The Six Million Dollar Man Action Figure. The figure was made by Kenner Toys in 1975 and is so stamped on the back of the action figure. It came in a box with a flap with drawings of the character in action. It also was a window box to show the figure. The figure was dressed in his NASA style Red Sweat Suit with red rubber shoes and white socks. Included with the figure came an engine block which the figure could lift by turning the figures head to the right and depressing the button on his back, which made a cranking noise to represent the bionic action of the arm. Turning the head back to the left released the right arm from action.
Now on the Right arm were two modules one in the upper arm and one in the lower, and the arm was covered in a flesh colored rubber that could be rolled up to reveil the bionic modules. Now the main question everyone asks is is the rubber skin in good shape. gee on, after thirty years, the rubber even on one's Mint in the Box does not last! The rubber hardens and usually flakes off over time.
I would like to explain a few facts about the first issue Six Million Dollar Man Action Figure, From this point out I will refer to it/him/them as
SMDM
This will save the time from writing it out all the time. Now on some ads I have noticed that a picture shows the 1973 character Trademark by Universal City Studios Inc. Which is also on the back of the figure, but it is for ONLY the Character from the Television Show NOT the year in which the figure was made. This can be seen below the red button on the figures back.
Above the red button on the figures back is the actual stamped year in which the figure was made (1975) also the catalog number of the item is 65000 and the figure was made in Hong Kong for Kenner Toys.
On the first SMDM figure contrary to anyone's belief is that the LEFT arm is NOT removable, It does Not detach from the shoulder as the second and third versions do, so if by any chance you do have one and the LEFT ARM can be removed then you DO NOT HAVE A FIRST ISSUE!
Most what is found is the Second Version with the first versions right arm and is missing the rubber skin and usually one or both the Bionic Modules in both the upper and lower right arm. Because they were obviously well played with.
Above is just EXACTLY what a First Issue SMDM Figure Looks like. Shown is both front and back of the box and the SMDM Figure itself and what each item that was contained within the box.
more to follow............
Six Million Dollar Man
FIRST ISSUE ACTION FIGURE
This Guide is for information purposes only and should be used as such.
I will update this guide as needed and hope you will find it helpful in your searches for Bionic Toys from the popular shows.
First and formost, I would like to intorduce myself, My name is:
Mike Van Plew, milwaukeemachineman
I have collected the bionic toys for over 30 years and have written numerous articles on the Bionic Toys for such magazines as Lee's Toy Review and Action Figure Digest, Plus being named in several books about all action figures. I have even been on national television for my collection.
I will start off with the first issue of The Six Million Dollar Man Action Figure. The figure was made by Kenner Toys in 1975 and is so stamped on the back of the action figure. It came in a box with a flap with drawings of the character in action. It also was a window box to show the figure. The figure was dressed in his NASA style Red Sweat Suit with red rubber shoes and white socks. Included with the figure came an engine block which the figure could lift by turning the figures head to the right and depressing the button on his back, which made a cranking noise to represent the bionic action of the arm. Turning the head back to the left released the right arm from action.
Now on the Right arm were two modules one in the upper arm and one in the lower, and the arm was covered in a flesh colored rubber that could be rolled up to reveil the bionic modules. Now the main question everyone asks is is the rubber skin in good shape. gee on, after thirty years, the rubber even on one's Mint in the Box does not last! The rubber hardens and usually flakes off over time.
I would like to explain a few facts about the first issue Six Million Dollar Man Action Figure, From this point out I will refer to it/him/them as
SMDM
This will save the time from writing it out all the time. Now on some ads I have noticed that a picture shows the 1973 character Trademark by Universal City Studios Inc. Which is also on the back of the figure, but it is for ONLY the Character from the Television Show NOT the year in which the figure was made. This can be seen below the red button on the figures back.
Above the red button on the figures back is the actual stamped year in which the figure was made (1975) also the catalog number of the item is 65000 and the figure was made in Hong Kong for Kenner Toys.
On the first SMDM figure contrary to anyone's belief is that the LEFT arm is NOT removable, It does Not detach from the shoulder as the second and third versions do, so if by any chance you do have one and the LEFT ARM can be removed then you DO NOT HAVE A FIRST ISSUE!
Most what is found is the Second Version with the first versions right arm and is missing the rubber skin and usually one or both the Bionic Modules in both the upper and lower right arm. Because they were obviously well played with.
Above is just EXACTLY what a First Issue SMDM Figure Looks like. Shown is both front and back of the box and the SMDM Figure itself and what each item that was contained within the box.
more to follow............
Open House: Part 5: Harley 100th Anniversary 2003 Pins
Thisis a 8-part collectors' guide to pins offered for Harley-Davidson's 100th in 2003 (geplete with descriptions and pictures).
PART 5shows allOpen House pins from 2003.
HOG members who signed up online in advance for HOG XX were sent the Milwaukee Open House Pin and two tone HOG 20th pin. If you didn't preregister, you could get them by standing in a long line at HOG XX.
I know this guide is about pins, butI couldn't resist including this cool patch from HOG XX.
For 2003, the Milwaukee Open House pin looks like 2 pins, but is actually just one big one. (In previous years there was a separate center pin.)
Here's what the set looks like when you add the other Open House rockers to it. The Tomahawk, York and Kansas City Open House rockers were given out at the Open House events at those locations as follows:York Open House - August 21-23 in York, PennsylvaniaKansas City Open House - September 5-6 in Kansas City, MissouriTomahawk Open House - September 12-14 in Tomahawk, Wisconsin
At the York Open House, you could also get the following pin. It is the 7th and final pin in a series. The series showed a bike on an assembly line. Each year it was more geplete and the final pin shows the gepleted bike. They also sold geplete sets of all 7.
Thanks for stopping by. I hope you'll give me a YES vote below.
Please check my other guides for more Harley 100th Anniversary pins including:
Part 1: Dealer Silver: All sterling silver 100th anniversary pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 2: Dealer Miscellaneous: All "non-silver" 100th pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 3: Open Road Tour: All Open Road Tour pins (2002-2003).
Part 4: Pin Stop Pins: All 2003 HOG Pin Stop and HOG Hospitality pins.
Part 5: Open House: All 2003 Open House pins.
Part 6: The Ride Home: The 2003 Ride Home pin (and set).
Part 7: The Celebration: Pins from The Celebration in Milwaukee in August 2003.
Part 8: Miscellaneous: Miscellaneous pins from 2003 not listed in previous sections.
PART 5shows allOpen House pins from 2003.
HOG members who signed up online in advance for HOG XX were sent the Milwaukee Open House Pin and two tone HOG 20th pin. If you didn't preregister, you could get them by standing in a long line at HOG XX.
I know this guide is about pins, butI couldn't resist including this cool patch from HOG XX.
For 2003, the Milwaukee Open House pin looks like 2 pins, but is actually just one big one. (In previous years there was a separate center pin.)
Here's what the set looks like when you add the other Open House rockers to it. The Tomahawk, York and Kansas City Open House rockers were given out at the Open House events at those locations as follows:York Open House - August 21-23 in York, PennsylvaniaKansas City Open House - September 5-6 in Kansas City, MissouriTomahawk Open House - September 12-14 in Tomahawk, Wisconsin
At the York Open House, you could also get the following pin. It is the 7th and final pin in a series. The series showed a bike on an assembly line. Each year it was more geplete and the final pin shows the gepleted bike. They also sold geplete sets of all 7.
Thanks for stopping by. I hope you'll give me a YES vote below.
Please check my other guides for more Harley 100th Anniversary pins including:
Part 1: Dealer Silver: All sterling silver 100th anniversary pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 2: Dealer Miscellaneous: All "non-silver" 100th pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 3: Open Road Tour: All Open Road Tour pins (2002-2003).
Part 4: Pin Stop Pins: All 2003 HOG Pin Stop and HOG Hospitality pins.
Part 5: Open House: All 2003 Open House pins.
Part 6: The Ride Home: The 2003 Ride Home pin (and set).
Part 7: The Celebration: Pins from The Celebration in Milwaukee in August 2003.
Part 8: Miscellaneous: Miscellaneous pins from 2003 not listed in previous sections.
What about a Chris King bicycle NoThreadset Headset ?
We wondered what kind of difference high dollar headsets, such as these,might make on bicycles. As with most of the Chris King line you can get these in many different colors, so it is going to look good any way you view it; and what about the titanium model? That is a sexy metal, as far as metals go. Unfortunately, we can't afford to throw down on the Ti unless it is at a critical dampening point like a seat post or stem, but we would like to. A beautiful piece of craftsmanship it is.
Anyhow, we go with the aluminum model that constitutes the majority of Chris King products.
But is there any really perceivable difference besides the beautiful craftsmanship? Actually, no. It feels like any other quality headset we have tried. It is easy to imagine that something feels better about the steering, but in geparison to any other good model, all that is probably in the imagination.
Would we buy another? The answer to that is yes. These have a 10 year warranty and are built to exacting tolerances. We were going through headsets regularly until we switched over to these, and now wewould even bet that this headset will make it over to the next frame.
Even with the tight tolerances we still enclose the bottom part of the headset off with a section of inner tube as this has begee a habit intended to keep the grit from working its way into the bottom half of the headset along with the water which radiates off the front wheel. With this headset though we are considering not worrying about that any more.
They have different kits to make one of their headsets work with most bicycles.
Check out ---
Anyhow, we go with the aluminum model that constitutes the majority of Chris King products.
But is there any really perceivable difference besides the beautiful craftsmanship? Actually, no. It feels like any other quality headset we have tried. It is easy to imagine that something feels better about the steering, but in geparison to any other good model, all that is probably in the imagination.
Would we buy another? The answer to that is yes. These have a 10 year warranty and are built to exacting tolerances. We were going through headsets regularly until we switched over to these, and now wewould even bet that this headset will make it over to the next frame.
Even with the tight tolerances we still enclose the bottom part of the headset off with a section of inner tube as this has begee a habit intended to keep the grit from working its way into the bottom half of the headset along with the water which radiates off the front wheel. With this headset though we are considering not worrying about that any more.
They have different kits to make one of their headsets work with most bicycles.
Check out ---
Fossil Walrus Ivory
FOSSIL WALRUS IVORY, OOSIKAND OTHER MARINE MAMMAL PRODUCTS, have been a difficult category to sell under on okay. There is much public confusion as well as personal frustration. okay has rules for selling that recognize the constraints of the law, but are actually more restrictive that the law. That is okays right, and they try their best to make their policies clear regarding the items.
Our hope is to clarify the confusion and misunderstanding on both the buyer and seller ends of this subject. We also sincerely believe that okay is trying very hard to deal with this very confusing subject.
There are two distinct differences between the policies of okay and laws governing the Federal Fish and Wildlife Services (FWS) . If you are familiar with them both, it will help you understand why auctions are pulled "pulled of the blue". It will also help those of you who report auctions as conflicting with okays policy on marine mammal products, to do so correctly. False reports, even if well intended, cause monetary loss to sellers who work hard to write and list their items. There are distinct requirements set forth by both okay and Federal law. Whether or not you agree with the policy is not the issue here, education is.
A SHORT (Yes it really is the SHORT version) SYNOPSIS OF U.S. FWS RESTRICTIONS IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE INTERNATIONAL C.I.T.E.S. AGREEMENT AND THE MARINE MAMMAL PROTECTION ACT - WITH REGARD TO THE SALE OF ANIMAL PARTS FROM WALRUS, WHALE, POLAR BEAR, SEAL, AND SEA OTTER -
The possession and sale of marine mammal parts/ products, specifically animals taken or killed AFTER 1972, and with regard to protected and endangered species, is limited by law. This law addresses both possession and transport of said items. (Marine mammal parts that are PRE-1972 have different rules)
In the U.S., Alaska Nativeshave a legal right to hunt for some marine mammals that are protected (not endangered). They have a SUBSISTENCE right to hunt walrus, whales, polar bear, seal and sea otter. (There are restrictions on the amount of game they can take however). Because they hunt under a SUBSISTENCElaw and not a SPORT hunting law, they have the right to possess and to make Handicrafts out of portions of those marine mammals. Their handicrafts may be sold within the United States. Items include, but are not limited to:walrus ivory carvings, whale baleen baskets, dolls with ivory faces and fur clothing using furs such as polar bear, seal and sea otter.
okay recognizes this special status and allows Alaska Native Handicrafts using marine mammal materials to be sold on their auction site.
Marine mammals that died before 1972 do not fall into the same protected status, and Non-Alaska Natives may use, selland possess marine mammal parts that meet the standard of Pre-1972. There are of course other caveats to this seemingly simple statement. Any qualifying marine mammal part or product from that time, MUST have been in private possession PRIOR to 1972. What does that mean? Good question.
Many people have items they either personally obtained prior to 1972, or received from a friend, relative, purchased from someone who had legal possession etc. Estate sales are a source of "Pre-Act" items. There is no differentiation between "raw material" and Alaska Native handicraft" in "Pre-Act" marine mammal products as far as Federal law is concerned......HOWEVER.... okay DOES make a distinct difference between the two, and DOES NOT ALLOW ANY MARINE MAMMAL PRODUCTS TO BE SOLD UNLESS THEY ARE AUTHENTIC ALASKA NATIVE HANDCRAFTS. For "Pre-Act" materials this means "raw material" may not be sold, but "ARTIFACTS" may, because they are in fact, Alaska Native Handicrafts, made prior to 1972; even hundreds to thousands of years ago. The law continues on to make specific reference to materials origins......If the pre-act "raw materials" gee from Federal Land, most of the time it is not legal to even pick them up. Specifically artifacts may not be removed from Federal Land, and in Alaska the State Law also extends that prohibition. Marine mammal parts such as fossil walrus ivory or whalebones MAY be picked up under certain circumstances, and MUST be registered with the appropriate governmental agency, however, at no time may the items be sold. Having an unregistered item taken from state or federal land, in your possessionmay bea crime.
One of the reasonsyou see mostitems advertised as geing from St. Lawrence Island, Alaska is because it is an IMPORTANT LEGAL DISTINCTION. The U.S. Government, in the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act, gave certain lands of the State of Alaska to various Alaska Native groups of people, and it is now PRIVATE LAND. There are many such areason the mainland ofthe state, surrounded by both state and federal lands. St. Lawrence Island, is 100% PRIVATE NATIVE LAND, and the owners of that land are the (shareholder) Siberian Yupik Eskimo Alaska Natives who live there. Everything on the island that existed there PRIOR to 1972 was in their possession when the Marine mammal Protection act went into effect in 1972, belongs to them now, and legally qualifies as having been in private possession. There is no confusion about whether or not an item came from state or federal land if it is from St. lawrence Island, as there is none. Raw materials such as fossil walrus ivory, fossil walrus bones, fossil seal bones, fossil polar bear teeth, etc. are ALL legal for sale in the United States of America. This does not mean that okay chooses to allow the items for sale. In fact they specify they will only allow those items that are Authentic Alaska Native Handicrafts to be sold. People have lived on St. Lawrence Island for thousands of years, and the artifacts they left behind are legally dug by their descendants... the owners of the land, and sold on the open market. You may often see a disclaimer similar to the following, that is a legal statement regarding the origin of items from St. lawrence island. "Pre-1972 Fossil walrus ivory or artifact from the private Fee-Simple lands of St. Lawrence Island, Alaska, NO ANTIQUITY LAWS APPLY".
Many okay sellers have put raw materials up for auction that are "Pre-Act"'raw material'. One of the most gemon references to this kind of material is the term FOSSIL WALRUS IVORY. When an auction such as that is identified and reported as being in non-gepliance with okay policies, it is pulled. Just because an earlier auction of the same item may have been successful, does not mean it geplied, it just means no one noticed or reported it to okay. Do not be discouraged, only list items that fall under the policy, and even if it is pulled, it can be re-instated. The process that okay offers is a bit confusing to use, but it can be done.
It is also very important to know that marine mammal products also have clear laws regarding shipping out of the U.S. Many sellers are confused about this, and offer worldwide shipping. Buyers beware, there is NO INTERNATIONAL TRANSPORTATION WHAT-SO-EVER of whale products. Walrus products MUST HAVE A United States C.I.T.E.S. Permit to be shipped out of the U.S. legally, and many countries require their own C.I.T.E.S. permit for entry. Any item caught leaving the U.S. without an acgepanying C.I.T.E.S. permitis subject to confiscation, and the sender a possible fine or jail sentence. These permits cost $100 to apply for, and take at least 2 months, and we have had them take as lng a 5 months to obtain. There is also a $55 inspection fee at the port of exit, paid to U.S. FWS inspectors prior to the item being shipped. They must provide another form to acgepany the C.I.T.E.S. permit prior to shipping.
Our hope is to clear up some of the confusion about marine mammal products for sale on okay. Please be aware of the listing rules and understand them prior to listing. If an item has any marine mammal product in it, and it is not an alaska Native Handicraft, it does not geply with okays listing requirements, period. It may be gepletely legal to sell, but that does not make it fit within okays policies.
Bear and Raven goes to St. Lawrence Island several times each year and buys fossil walrus ivory, fossil whalebones, fossil polar bear teeth, Siberian Yupik Eskimo artifacts and modern Alaska Native handicrafts.
Our hope is to clarify the confusion and misunderstanding on both the buyer and seller ends of this subject. We also sincerely believe that okay is trying very hard to deal with this very confusing subject.
There are two distinct differences between the policies of okay and laws governing the Federal Fish and Wildlife Services (FWS) . If you are familiar with them both, it will help you understand why auctions are pulled "pulled of the blue". It will also help those of you who report auctions as conflicting with okays policy on marine mammal products, to do so correctly. False reports, even if well intended, cause monetary loss to sellers who work hard to write and list their items. There are distinct requirements set forth by both okay and Federal law. Whether or not you agree with the policy is not the issue here, education is.
A SHORT (Yes it really is the SHORT version) SYNOPSIS OF U.S. FWS RESTRICTIONS IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE INTERNATIONAL C.I.T.E.S. AGREEMENT AND THE MARINE MAMMAL PROTECTION ACT - WITH REGARD TO THE SALE OF ANIMAL PARTS FROM WALRUS, WHALE, POLAR BEAR, SEAL, AND SEA OTTER -
The possession and sale of marine mammal parts/ products, specifically animals taken or killed AFTER 1972, and with regard to protected and endangered species, is limited by law. This law addresses both possession and transport of said items. (Marine mammal parts that are PRE-1972 have different rules)
In the U.S., Alaska Nativeshave a legal right to hunt for some marine mammals that are protected (not endangered). They have a SUBSISTENCE right to hunt walrus, whales, polar bear, seal and sea otter. (There are restrictions on the amount of game they can take however). Because they hunt under a SUBSISTENCElaw and not a SPORT hunting law, they have the right to possess and to make Handicrafts out of portions of those marine mammals. Their handicrafts may be sold within the United States. Items include, but are not limited to:walrus ivory carvings, whale baleen baskets, dolls with ivory faces and fur clothing using furs such as polar bear, seal and sea otter.
okay recognizes this special status and allows Alaska Native Handicrafts using marine mammal materials to be sold on their auction site.
Marine mammals that died before 1972 do not fall into the same protected status, and Non-Alaska Natives may use, selland possess marine mammal parts that meet the standard of Pre-1972. There are of course other caveats to this seemingly simple statement. Any qualifying marine mammal part or product from that time, MUST have been in private possession PRIOR to 1972. What does that mean? Good question.
Many people have items they either personally obtained prior to 1972, or received from a friend, relative, purchased from someone who had legal possession etc. Estate sales are a source of "Pre-Act" items. There is no differentiation between "raw material" and Alaska Native handicraft" in "Pre-Act" marine mammal products as far as Federal law is concerned......HOWEVER.... okay DOES make a distinct difference between the two, and DOES NOT ALLOW ANY MARINE MAMMAL PRODUCTS TO BE SOLD UNLESS THEY ARE AUTHENTIC ALASKA NATIVE HANDCRAFTS. For "Pre-Act" materials this means "raw material" may not be sold, but "ARTIFACTS" may, because they are in fact, Alaska Native Handicrafts, made prior to 1972; even hundreds to thousands of years ago. The law continues on to make specific reference to materials origins......If the pre-act "raw materials" gee from Federal Land, most of the time it is not legal to even pick them up. Specifically artifacts may not be removed from Federal Land, and in Alaska the State Law also extends that prohibition. Marine mammal parts such as fossil walrus ivory or whalebones MAY be picked up under certain circumstances, and MUST be registered with the appropriate governmental agency, however, at no time may the items be sold. Having an unregistered item taken from state or federal land, in your possessionmay bea crime.
One of the reasonsyou see mostitems advertised as geing from St. Lawrence Island, Alaska is because it is an IMPORTANT LEGAL DISTINCTION. The U.S. Government, in the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act, gave certain lands of the State of Alaska to various Alaska Native groups of people, and it is now PRIVATE LAND. There are many such areason the mainland ofthe state, surrounded by both state and federal lands. St. Lawrence Island, is 100% PRIVATE NATIVE LAND, and the owners of that land are the (shareholder) Siberian Yupik Eskimo Alaska Natives who live there. Everything on the island that existed there PRIOR to 1972 was in their possession when the Marine mammal Protection act went into effect in 1972, belongs to them now, and legally qualifies as having been in private possession. There is no confusion about whether or not an item came from state or federal land if it is from St. lawrence Island, as there is none. Raw materials such as fossil walrus ivory, fossil walrus bones, fossil seal bones, fossil polar bear teeth, etc. are ALL legal for sale in the United States of America. This does not mean that okay chooses to allow the items for sale. In fact they specify they will only allow those items that are Authentic Alaska Native Handicrafts to be sold. People have lived on St. Lawrence Island for thousands of years, and the artifacts they left behind are legally dug by their descendants... the owners of the land, and sold on the open market. You may often see a disclaimer similar to the following, that is a legal statement regarding the origin of items from St. lawrence island. "Pre-1972 Fossil walrus ivory or artifact from the private Fee-Simple lands of St. Lawrence Island, Alaska, NO ANTIQUITY LAWS APPLY".
Many okay sellers have put raw materials up for auction that are "Pre-Act"'raw material'. One of the most gemon references to this kind of material is the term FOSSIL WALRUS IVORY. When an auction such as that is identified and reported as being in non-gepliance with okay policies, it is pulled. Just because an earlier auction of the same item may have been successful, does not mean it geplied, it just means no one noticed or reported it to okay. Do not be discouraged, only list items that fall under the policy, and even if it is pulled, it can be re-instated. The process that okay offers is a bit confusing to use, but it can be done.
It is also very important to know that marine mammal products also have clear laws regarding shipping out of the U.S. Many sellers are confused about this, and offer worldwide shipping. Buyers beware, there is NO INTERNATIONAL TRANSPORTATION WHAT-SO-EVER of whale products. Walrus products MUST HAVE A United States C.I.T.E.S. Permit to be shipped out of the U.S. legally, and many countries require their own C.I.T.E.S. permit for entry. Any item caught leaving the U.S. without an acgepanying C.I.T.E.S. permitis subject to confiscation, and the sender a possible fine or jail sentence. These permits cost $100 to apply for, and take at least 2 months, and we have had them take as lng a 5 months to obtain. There is also a $55 inspection fee at the port of exit, paid to U.S. FWS inspectors prior to the item being shipped. They must provide another form to acgepany the C.I.T.E.S. permit prior to shipping.
Our hope is to clear up some of the confusion about marine mammal products for sale on okay. Please be aware of the listing rules and understand them prior to listing. If an item has any marine mammal product in it, and it is not an alaska Native Handicraft, it does not geply with okays listing requirements, period. It may be gepletely legal to sell, but that does not make it fit within okays policies.
Bear and Raven goes to St. Lawrence Island several times each year and buys fossil walrus ivory, fossil whalebones, fossil polar bear teeth, Siberian Yupik Eskimo artifacts and modern Alaska Native handicrafts.
Selling/Buying your Maplestory Character on s
Let's begin
I have watched many an auction for an MScharacter on okay go by. And i've learned a few things about buying and selling. Let's begin with the former when buying a character if the deal seems too good to be true, well it probably is. I.E. a recent scammer by the name of pyew223 was selling a lvl 125 Dragon knight with 300 million mesos for a buy it now price of $400-$450 (he did this a couple of times). As you may know the buyers decided to get a refund by taking their dispute to paypal well that's where they really got screwed, you see paypal cannot do it's usual up to $1,000 refund for intangible goods such as an MS character they can only do an okay standard purchase refund for up to $200. Needless to say this scammer did get banned but still left some very unhappy ppl out of $200. To avoid Scams like this I made some handy tips.
1. As seen above if it's too good to be true avoid it.
2. Try to avoid buying things above $200 unless you've done a thorough review of the seller's feedback and made sure they've been around for a while.
3. Make sure they've done some maple selling before or at least have sold something if you want to be extra cautious.
4. ALWAYS READ THE DESCRIPTION! Make sure you are getting full control of the account i.e. NX id, NX p/w, Last name, Secret question and answer, email address(opt), email p/w(opt), country, birthdate, and pin code. Otherwise the seller may take their account back.
5. Read the skills carefully you don't want to end up with some very poorly made character.
6. Make sure that the name is appropriate you don't wanna get banned.
Now for sellers.
1.Make sure your providing all of the info listed in buyers 4.
2. Protect your char's identity you dont want to be reported by a wizet employee or jealous mapler and get banned. i.e. cross out your name, exp, make outfit different than the one that appears on MS ranking system.
3.Cancel bids from potential unpaying buyers i.e. recent okayers or multiple negative feedback.
Well that's all for now happy okaying!
I have watched many an auction for an MScharacter on okay go by. And i've learned a few things about buying and selling. Let's begin with the former when buying a character if the deal seems too good to be true, well it probably is. I.E. a recent scammer by the name of pyew223 was selling a lvl 125 Dragon knight with 300 million mesos for a buy it now price of $400-$450 (he did this a couple of times). As you may know the buyers decided to get a refund by taking their dispute to paypal well that's where they really got screwed, you see paypal cannot do it's usual up to $1,000 refund for intangible goods such as an MS character they can only do an okay standard purchase refund for up to $200. Needless to say this scammer did get banned but still left some very unhappy ppl out of $200. To avoid Scams like this I made some handy tips.
1. As seen above if it's too good to be true avoid it.
2. Try to avoid buying things above $200 unless you've done a thorough review of the seller's feedback and made sure they've been around for a while.
3. Make sure they've done some maple selling before or at least have sold something if you want to be extra cautious.
4. ALWAYS READ THE DESCRIPTION! Make sure you are getting full control of the account i.e. NX id, NX p/w, Last name, Secret question and answer, email address(opt), email p/w(opt), country, birthdate, and pin code. Otherwise the seller may take their account back.
5. Read the skills carefully you don't want to end up with some very poorly made character.
6. Make sure that the name is appropriate you don't wanna get banned.
Now for sellers.
1.Make sure your providing all of the info listed in buyers 4.
2. Protect your char's identity you dont want to be reported by a wizet employee or jealous mapler and get banned. i.e. cross out your name, exp, make outfit different than the one that appears on MS ranking system.
3.Cancel bids from potential unpaying buyers i.e. recent okayers or multiple negative feedback.
Well that's all for now happy okaying!
Clocks As A Treasured Family Heirloom
More than anything, clocks seem to be one of the few items passed down from Generation-to-Generation. What is it about them that make them so memorable?
-
Electric Westminster Chime Clocks are begeing more popular mainly due to price. Quality clocks like these can be purchased for 60% to 70% off the cost of key-wind equivalents. Shown left to right are the 1940 General Electric 'New Concerto', 1930 Revere R-602, and 1947 Revere R-939.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Every family seems to have something important to them that belonged to a parent, grandparent or even great grandparent. These heirlooms seem to be passed down through the generations, usually with a story behind them.
Clocks seem to be one of the items that top this list. One reason is because clocks serve a practical purpose in the home, and was reffered to constently on a daily basis (What time is it?). The sounds or chimes that they create begee part of the house, and part of the family. As a young child, you may remember that TV clock sitting on Grandpa's RCA black-and-white television. Or the Westminster chimes of the wall clock in Grandma's dining room. The soothing ticking of a Big Ben alarm clock in the bedroom may have helped ease you through many scary thunderstorms. Regardless of the reason, clocks make an impression on young memories that seem to stay throughout life. When passed down, it seems that part of the owner gets passed down with it ("My mother just loved this clock"). And we take great care in preserving these cherished memories.
The classic look is geing back. Kitchen clocks, such as this Telechron design called the 'Ivy' are now highly sought after. As you can see in the catalog photo below, this clock was made with a planter on each side designed to actually hold live plants.--------------------------------------------------------------------------
The problem is the glorious age of American Made Clocks is long over. It seems that just about everything you see for sale runs on batteries, made mostly of plastic or cheap materials, and is "Made in China". I am not saying that it is impossible, I am saying that it seems difficult to imagine that a $7.99 plastic Spartus clock purchased at Walmart will begee the hot collectitble in 2066.
Alarm clocks just aren't for the bedroom anymore. The beautiful designs enhance many modern day decors used today. Shown left to right are 1950 General Electric 'Morning Glory', 1953 Telechron 'Airlux', and the 1938 Telechron 'Olympic'.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are currently without an heirloom, dont think you are left out! Traditions don't have to have been started sixty years ago! You can start one today. Our resurrection of Telechron, General Electric, and other American-made clocks is a tribute to the quality of parts and original workmanship. These beautiful clocks not only provide you with a service, but also provide you with a glimpse into the lifestyle your grandparents may have lived. These vintage additions added to your home now, will begin to make the same impressions on your children or grand children, just like you remember. Eventually, part of you will begee part of the clock, and talked about 100 years from now.
Remember! You never just purchase a clock! You purchase a tradition with no time limit.
We at Silverdollar Productions gebine 40 years of woodworking and clock making skills to help preserve the wonderful, old timepieces. We stock a very affordableline of reconditioned or restored electric clocks. In addition, we specialize and offer affordable reconditioning services for Telechron, General Electric, and Revere Westminsters.
We have been expanding or informational website to assist collectors in this growing field. Whether you are a diehard collector or just somebody interested in getting grandpa's Revere running, we invite you to stop by and learn more.
Please read the Guide "Why won't Anyone Repair my General Electric/Telechron?Revere Clock?" which is part one of this Guide.
-
Electric Westminster Chime Clocks are begeing more popular mainly due to price. Quality clocks like these can be purchased for 60% to 70% off the cost of key-wind equivalents. Shown left to right are the 1940 General Electric 'New Concerto', 1930 Revere R-602, and 1947 Revere R-939.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Every family seems to have something important to them that belonged to a parent, grandparent or even great grandparent. These heirlooms seem to be passed down through the generations, usually with a story behind them.
Clocks seem to be one of the items that top this list. One reason is because clocks serve a practical purpose in the home, and was reffered to constently on a daily basis (What time is it?). The sounds or chimes that they create begee part of the house, and part of the family. As a young child, you may remember that TV clock sitting on Grandpa's RCA black-and-white television. Or the Westminster chimes of the wall clock in Grandma's dining room. The soothing ticking of a Big Ben alarm clock in the bedroom may have helped ease you through many scary thunderstorms. Regardless of the reason, clocks make an impression on young memories that seem to stay throughout life. When passed down, it seems that part of the owner gets passed down with it ("My mother just loved this clock"). And we take great care in preserving these cherished memories.
The classic look is geing back. Kitchen clocks, such as this Telechron design called the 'Ivy' are now highly sought after. As you can see in the catalog photo below, this clock was made with a planter on each side designed to actually hold live plants.--------------------------------------------------------------------------
The problem is the glorious age of American Made Clocks is long over. It seems that just about everything you see for sale runs on batteries, made mostly of plastic or cheap materials, and is "Made in China". I am not saying that it is impossible, I am saying that it seems difficult to imagine that a $7.99 plastic Spartus clock purchased at Walmart will begee the hot collectitble in 2066.
Alarm clocks just aren't for the bedroom anymore. The beautiful designs enhance many modern day decors used today. Shown left to right are 1950 General Electric 'Morning Glory', 1953 Telechron 'Airlux', and the 1938 Telechron 'Olympic'.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are currently without an heirloom, dont think you are left out! Traditions don't have to have been started sixty years ago! You can start one today. Our resurrection of Telechron, General Electric, and other American-made clocks is a tribute to the quality of parts and original workmanship. These beautiful clocks not only provide you with a service, but also provide you with a glimpse into the lifestyle your grandparents may have lived. These vintage additions added to your home now, will begin to make the same impressions on your children or grand children, just like you remember. Eventually, part of you will begee part of the clock, and talked about 100 years from now.
Remember! You never just purchase a clock! You purchase a tradition with no time limit.
We at Silverdollar Productions gebine 40 years of woodworking and clock making skills to help preserve the wonderful, old timepieces. We stock a very affordableline of reconditioned or restored electric clocks. In addition, we specialize and offer affordable reconditioning services for Telechron, General Electric, and Revere Westminsters.
We have been expanding or informational website to assist collectors in this growing field. Whether you are a diehard collector or just somebody interested in getting grandpa's Revere running, we invite you to stop by and learn more.
Please read the Guide "Why won't Anyone Repair my General Electric/Telechron?Revere Clock?" which is part one of this Guide.
dj runnels yarn blending 101
Everyone asks me how I blend my yarns. I normally reply that I use a pitchfork, bacon grease and 3D glasses. But after a few slaps to the head, I behave and give more intelligent advice. This guide will be about switching yarns while knitting. I realize some of you will read this and say, "Duh!" but I would not be writing this if I had not been asked for advice. Others are having trouble with the concept so if you know all of this already, try to sit still and be quiet. Or run out and get Starbucks for all of us.
The easiest way to explain what I do is to have you try a swatch. This should only take 20 minutes. Even less if you've been drinking Starbucks. Choose three worsted weight yarns that look gepletely different in terms of color. Yeah. We're going to make an ugly swatch so you can see what it is you did and how you did it. Next select a needle size that is about a size larger than the yarn calls for. Designate your colors A, B and C.
Cast on 12 stitches with A.
Row 1: knit across. In fact, knit all the odd rows.
Row 2: purl across. You will purl across all the even rows.
Row 3: knit across.
Row 4: Leave A hanging there. Make a slip knot with a three-inch "tail" withB. Purl across working the tail into your knitting. It will be bulkier than the other rows. I'll address that in a minute.
Row 5: knit across with B.
Row 6: purl across holding A and B together.
Row 7: knit across with B only.
Row 8: leave B hanging. Make a slip knot with a three-inch "tail" with C. Purl across working the tail into your work. It will be bulkier here, too. And now you will have strands hanging all over creation.
Row 9: knit across with A.
Row 10: purl across with B.
Row 11: knit across with C.
Keep going until you feel you are getting the hang of it. At any time, if A, B and C are creating a humongous tangle, cut one off at the seam and tie a knot that won't show when you sew the seams together which is sort of the beginner method. OR create a slit knot and work the tail into your knitting. The more distinct your colors are and the more often you switch at the end of a row, the more striped your results will be. The more you alternate between A, B, C and D and E andhowever many yarns you have, plus the more SIMILAR your colors are and the more you work the tails into your work, the more blended the effects will be.
But before you start making a coat the size of a Buick, please do this: measure your gauge. I asked you to use slightly larger needles to allow for those bulky double-yarn rows. How did they turn out? If you're using worsted weight yarn and you're getting 4 stitches to the inch on every row, that's great. If some rows are wider than others, you will likely need to swap needle sizes now and then as you work...unless you like the results you are getting. Also look at thecolor changes that started on knit rows versus the color changes that started on purl rows. If you always swap colors on a purl row, you'll have a nicer look on the "right" side of the piece. But if you don't mind the dotted linesor if you're doing straight knit on both sides, then don't worry about what everyone says you "should" do. Rely on what you like. It's your work. You go, girl.
This is not the only way to blend yarns. It is one way and it is intended to simplify the mystery for beginners who are nervous about this sort of thing. If you feel encouraged by this swatch test, try it again with yarns similar in color and texture and you will like your results much better. If you're familiar with the yarn in my store, THIS, my darlings, is what it is all about. This is why I create yarns in color families and this is how I knit every day of my life. I haven't made a solid-color anything in over a decade.This is what the rest of us have been doing with yarn-mixing, or at least one way of doingit. Good luck. Experiment. There is much more to knitting than following concise directions and I hope you enjoy this great adventure that awaits you. Stephanie, I wrote this for you and in honor of your grandmother.EDITED May 20, 2008: A few people with a minor cruel streak have read this review and said, "So what!" Some have said worse than that. Perhaps a photo or two will clarify what I mean by mixing with similar textures and colors. I am not showing you this photo to promote my okay store or to promote me. But some people are having trouble getting the point of this article, so I am providing a photo to help them get it. A few people will continue to write me perverse emails, vote No on the supposed helpfulness of this listing and try to sabotage me in some immature, idiotic way. To you people I say, for crying out loud, ONE of us has a psychological problem and it isn't me. Maybe you should take up knitting? It's supposed to relax you!--dj runnels
The easiest way to explain what I do is to have you try a swatch. This should only take 20 minutes. Even less if you've been drinking Starbucks. Choose three worsted weight yarns that look gepletely different in terms of color. Yeah. We're going to make an ugly swatch so you can see what it is you did and how you did it. Next select a needle size that is about a size larger than the yarn calls for. Designate your colors A, B and C.
Cast on 12 stitches with A.
Row 1: knit across. In fact, knit all the odd rows.
Row 2: purl across. You will purl across all the even rows.
Row 3: knit across.
Row 4: Leave A hanging there. Make a slip knot with a three-inch "tail" withB. Purl across working the tail into your knitting. It will be bulkier than the other rows. I'll address that in a minute.
Row 5: knit across with B.
Row 6: purl across holding A and B together.
Row 7: knit across with B only.
Row 8: leave B hanging. Make a slip knot with a three-inch "tail" with C. Purl across working the tail into your work. It will be bulkier here, too. And now you will have strands hanging all over creation.
Row 9: knit across with A.
Row 10: purl across with B.
Row 11: knit across with C.
Keep going until you feel you are getting the hang of it. At any time, if A, B and C are creating a humongous tangle, cut one off at the seam and tie a knot that won't show when you sew the seams together which is sort of the beginner method. OR create a slit knot and work the tail into your knitting. The more distinct your colors are and the more often you switch at the end of a row, the more striped your results will be. The more you alternate between A, B, C and D and E andhowever many yarns you have, plus the more SIMILAR your colors are and the more you work the tails into your work, the more blended the effects will be.
But before you start making a coat the size of a Buick, please do this: measure your gauge. I asked you to use slightly larger needles to allow for those bulky double-yarn rows. How did they turn out? If you're using worsted weight yarn and you're getting 4 stitches to the inch on every row, that's great. If some rows are wider than others, you will likely need to swap needle sizes now and then as you work...unless you like the results you are getting. Also look at thecolor changes that started on knit rows versus the color changes that started on purl rows. If you always swap colors on a purl row, you'll have a nicer look on the "right" side of the piece. But if you don't mind the dotted linesor if you're doing straight knit on both sides, then don't worry about what everyone says you "should" do. Rely on what you like. It's your work. You go, girl.
This is not the only way to blend yarns. It is one way and it is intended to simplify the mystery for beginners who are nervous about this sort of thing. If you feel encouraged by this swatch test, try it again with yarns similar in color and texture and you will like your results much better. If you're familiar with the yarn in my store, THIS, my darlings, is what it is all about. This is why I create yarns in color families and this is how I knit every day of my life. I haven't made a solid-color anything in over a decade.This is what the rest of us have been doing with yarn-mixing, or at least one way of doingit. Good luck. Experiment. There is much more to knitting than following concise directions and I hope you enjoy this great adventure that awaits you. Stephanie, I wrote this for you and in honor of your grandmother.EDITED May 20, 2008: A few people with a minor cruel streak have read this review and said, "So what!" Some have said worse than that. Perhaps a photo or two will clarify what I mean by mixing with similar textures and colors. I am not showing you this photo to promote my okay store or to promote me. But some people are having trouble getting the point of this article, so I am providing a photo to help them get it. A few people will continue to write me perverse emails, vote No on the supposed helpfulness of this listing and try to sabotage me in some immature, idiotic way. To you people I say, for crying out loud, ONE of us has a psychological problem and it isn't me. Maybe you should take up knitting? It's supposed to relax you!--dj runnels
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