Thursday, December 22, 2011
How to make Great Prime Rib at home.
Dinner at 5:00 start this at 8 or 9 in the morning. Get a nice aged standing rib roast with the ribs on. Preheat your oven on bake at 500 degrees, yes 500 degrees. Dont cut any fat off the top. Generously salt (course sea salt if you have it) and lots of pepper on all sides and ends of prime rib roast. Place the roast in a roasting pan on a rack or if you dont have a rack just throw some big chunks of onion on the bottom of the pan to prop up the roast. Put the roast in the oven, shut the door fast. Set your timer for 30 minutes. The size of the roast doesnt matter as long as it is 3 ribs or more. After 30 minutes turn the oven down to 180 degrees. Dont peak dont open the door dont panic. At 4:30 or 1/2 hour before dinner remove the roast and cover with foil. About 20 minutes later cut the roast as you put it on the plate. It will be pink from end to end and if folks want it more done throw their piece in the microwave for 1 or 2 minutes...not regemended but if they are well doners that is what you have to do. sometimes the end cuts are a little more done so that is also a possibility..... have fun, enjoy the aroma around the house all day, it is great.Mitch
bart simpson autographs
I have a box of bart simpson limited edition peanut butter chocolate crunch cereal, and nancy cartwright who does bart simpsons voice autographed the box.
does this autograph have any value. the cereal box s from 2002
does this autograph have any value. the cereal box s from 2002
Vintage Gillette Double Edge Razors
$1800 Fat Boy Bottom Dialer
1960 Red Dot ToggleFat Boy
This is NOT a red dot
I've been using Gillette safety razors for 50 years. I've spent the past two years googling dating information, perusing auctions, cleaning Gillettes for other people selling, and generally soaking up information. I'd like to share what I've learned to new buyers and sellers of Gillette razors. I don't know all there is to know, additions and corrections are welgee.The most informativewebsites are "Badger and Bade" for shaving forums and mr-razor dot ge for the photographs.Another "must read" is a 4 part history atbruceonshaving dot gethat defines the high-end 1920s razors.There isanother terrific articlewith showroom pictureson high dollar Gillettedouble edge razorsis atrazoremporium dot ge slash archive.
I hope I'm not guilty of plagarizing these gentlemen, I'm onlytrying to sort and collate theirmodel anddatinginformation into one place.Folks want to know what it is,how old is it, and what its worth. These gentlemen do have a certain eleganceof prose that I can't possibly approach.
We're in hard times now, I don't have to tell you money's tight. Spending $20 for an old adjustable on okay and using a 10- pack of double edged blades from Walmart for $3 makes more sense than spending the big bucks for a Fusion and replacement blades. Figure it out as a "cost per shave". Each double edged blade lasts around 5 shaves. Each blade costs 30 cents. That's 6 cents a shave. I have tender skin. I get just as close a shave with my 1968 adjustable set on "4" as I do with any hi-dollarmultiple edged Gillette razor. As I grew older, I came to appreciate the artistry andcraftmanship that went into making an old razor. I like thelook andfeel of a heavy metal razor, and Ireally likemylong-handled"Black Beauty" as I have a large hand. To each his own. Some guys swear by open geb razors.
Let's start with a glossary.
Safety razor - means a razor body that houses a single or double-edged razor blade, with a handle extending perpindicularly from the razor body. The scope of this discussion is AmericanGillette double edged safety razors.
3 piece - means the razor will break down into 3 pieces, allowing the blade to be changed. The handle unscrews from the top through the body, allowing the top to be lifted to expose the blade as it sits in the razor body. These are how your original safety razors were made. King Camp Gillette's patent drawing on Wikipedia shows a lamp-shaped handle. Three piece razors were madefrom the get-go in 1904. 3-piece "tech" razors were made from 1938-1975. I have a silverone in my hand that has a ball end, that Mr-razordotge says was made from 1946-1950, as the underneath slots are oblong instead of the earlier triangular shape. The diamond Gillette logo is etched into the face. Beautiful razor. Just as a confusion factor, razoremporium.ge's chart says the triangular slots lasted until 1952. So the date codes will tell the tale.
Open geb. On each side of the razor body, curled 3/8 in metal flanges 13 per side form a base on which the blade rests. I don't know when the blade bar razor was introduced. The last open geb was produced in 1940.See Footnote 1.
Travel razor. A short handled three piece razor. Sold in a metal orwooden velvet-lined case with a pack of blades. I just saw one today, tiny metal case, open geb, no mfg marking, extender handle inside the main handle, making this a 4-piece razor. Interesting. Rarely does a travel razor go for any more than $10, usually around $3-$5.
TTO - twist to open - Introduced in 1934 as "The Aristocrat". The twist-to-open mechanism is the separate bottom part of the handle that rotates counter-clockwise to open the butterfly doors to about a 135 degree angle, allowing the razor blade to be changed.
Tip - the part of the handle that rotates to open and close the doors of the razor body. They can be in different colors than the rest of the handle. From 1955 through 1959, Gillette used red and blue tips, to signify the closeness of the shave. In order of "aggressiveness", from least to most, the tips were blue, regular (or flare or black), and red. The red and blue tips were made obsolete by the introduction of the adjustable Fat Boy in 1958. The flare tip was introduced in 1954.
End caps - In 1946, on each side of the razor body, two end caps were introduced. Later on before 1950, they switched to a single end cap on each side. Before 1946, there were none, just two holes on each side. (English endcaps are pointed, American are blunt.)
Notched post - In 1948 thru 1966"Tech" razors gotround notch in each side of the post just below where it attaches to the center bar of the razor body.
Adjustable - First introduced 1958, last produced 1986. This means there is a nine position adjustment ring just underneath the razor body. The numbers 1-9 were inlayed black when new. The "clicker"just above the adjustment ring will be red or black.This adjustment allows any beard from peach fuzz (position 1) to bristle brush (position 9) to be shaved. If the razor does not have this adjustment ring, it is not adjustable. I find it incredible sellers are titleing their razors as adjustable when they are not, and buyers are bidding the razor as if it were adjustable when picture clearly shows it is not.
Fat Boy -Gillette's first adjustable razor - madefrom 1958 thru 1961 (I know oftwo exceptions).This is an adjustable razor distinguished from allothers because it has a thicker handle, shorter and heavier (3oz) than the slim adjustables. Because razors get dropped, and because fat boys are heavy, fat boys' TTO mechanismsget damagedand razor doors and end caps get bent.
There are a number ofFat Boy variations:1) Most Fat Boys were sold for $1.95, making them known as the "195 special". These have the adjustment ring underneath the razor body with a red or black plastic clicker just above the adjustment ring.2)In 1960, there were also sold with a bottom dial adjuster.....a)Five position dialer. According to the latest information (Dec 2011), this is an engineering model that existed on drawings only.....b)Nine postion dialer.The spot magnifier will be on the opposite end of the box from the normal production fat boy. Very rare. I posted the auction results link from Nov 2011, which has smokedtwo more out of the woodwork, the first top bid north of $1100 didn't meet the auction reserve(!), the second is up to $300 . The second seller says the razor will fit in an ordinary case, which is contrary toother blogger's information. However, you can see by this gentleman's photograph, that the razor tip extendspast the case's white border by one-eighth of an inch, and the lid will bare close. I know I'm nit-picking, but I'd say the standard production case does not fit the bottom dialer razor. When we're talking this kind of money, we have to be exact in our descriptions.3) In 1960 only, a toggle switch at the bottom of the razor handle was used toopen and closethe butterfly doors. Scarce.4)"Red dot" -Instead of the plastic clickerjust above the adjustment dialthat tells you what position 1-9 the razor isin, there is ared dot. in its place.Razor connoisseurs consider this the finest adjustable Gilletteever made, as the whole adjustment and TTO mechanism is different, beefier, and more secure.According to razoremporium dot ge slash archive'swonderful article, this razor weighs 3ounces asopposed to 2.7ounces for the production model, and is 1/8" longer. Thecase has a deeper curve to it instead of the shallower production case. Please go look at his pictures to see what a red dotrazorlooks like.The heavies all say this is a prototype razor.5)Mr-razordotge shows a beautiful togglegold-plated fatboy 1-9 adjustable red dot with a date code of B1, which makes it 1956. Another one with a date code of C-1 sold for $350 two years ago. These kinds of prices are reserved for unused razors in absolute mint condition, no scratches on the case, with shaving instructions.
Now, today, 12/12. I see half a dozen slim adjustables and red tip super speeds listed as fat boys. Incredible. I'm sure that you boys reading this know the difference between a fat boy and any other razor.Then Isawsome average shape fat boys are reserved at $100 or better. They won't sell. The average uncased fatboy should be worth around $40-$60.Here's the deal: The more people that look for the red dots, toggles, and bottom dialers, the more will turn up, the more get put on auction, and the price will gee down.
Slim Adjustable - an adjustable razor thinner than the Fat Boy, introduced in 1960, and produced through 1968. Uncased slim adjustables in decent shape are very popular, and aregoing for about $25-$30.
In 1966, Gillette addedtwo black handled resin coatedvariations to the slim adjustable line, one, anormal length handle; the other, the so-called "Black Beauty", which has an extra half inch longer handle, making the total razor length of the Black Beauty four inches long,. Gillette produced these black handled razors until 1976. Because I have a large hand, I really like my Black Beauty. I notice the prices on ones in good shape are in the $35-$45 range.
Gold tone - the razor has been plated with a very thin layer of gold. Using metal polish willremove the gold plate, polishing the underlying copper coat, giving the razor a reddish copper appearance, destroying its value. Clean it, but don't polish it. These can be re-plated for around $50, as I understand it from internet forums. The 1969 Black Beauty was the last gold plated razor Gillette made. I notice (Dec 2011)three re-plated gold fat boy stylerazors didn't get any bids. Interesting.
DATING: 1904-1929 Serial numbers - copied and pasted from Badger and Blade.
1904 1-454241905 45425-3704241906 370425-7704241907 770425-A1954241908 A195425-A6758571909 A675858-B2222201910 B222221-B6976001911 B222221-B6976001912 C80509-C2602381913 C260239-C4078061914 C407807-C5783601915 C578361-C9118061916 C911807-D5164741917 D516475-E4492071918 E449208-J73441919 J7345-K9272161920 K927217-N4598871921 N459887-P6797771A-863912A1922 863913A-336676B1923 336677B-391575B1924 391576B-485927B1925 485928B-602049B1926 602050B-770070B1927 770071B-902611B * From Oct 18 1927 to Aug 27 1928, there were no serial numbers used.*1928 1C-94800C1929 94801C-241755C
1930-through secondquarter 1950- No serial numbers, nodate codes. There is a TTO Aristocrat (12-21-11)in beautiful shapeup for auction where the seller states that the razor was manufactured in 1932. The only way he could possibly know that is if he has the original sales slip.
DATE CODES:Two variations:1. Flat bottom adjustables: Viewing the underside of the razor vertically so that all lettering reads from left to right, onthe top leftside of the post where the post attaches to the body, there will be a letter stamped into the body. On the right side of the post, there will be a number stamped into the body. The letter corresponds to the year manufactured, the number corresponds to the quarter of the year manufactured.2.All others:Viewing the razor horizontally so that REG US PAT OFF is visible just below the oblong slots, between that lettering and the top side of the diamond, extreme left and right you will see the letter on one side, number on the opposite side stamped into the body.
Third quarter 1950-1986 (last produced)
1950-V, 1951-W, 1952-X, 1953-Y, 1954-Z, 1955-A, 1956-B, 1957-C, 1958-D, 1959-E1960-F, 1961-G, 1962-H, 1963-I, 1964-J, 1965-K, 1966-L, 1967-M, 1968-N, 1969-O1970-P, 1971-R*, 1972-S, 1973-T, 1974-U, 1975-V, 1976-W, 1977-X, 1978-Y, 1979-Z1980-A, 1981-B, 1982-C, 1983-D, 1984-F, 1985-G, 1986-H
*1971 1st Quarter = Q-1, 2nd-3rd-4th Quarter = R-2, 3, and 4.
From a financial standpoint, date codes are important because there are collectors out there who must have a razor for every year, every quarter. So then they have to have place holders in their collection, a beater just to remind themselves they need a good one for that slot. It's just like coin collecting.They'realways upgrading.
Footnote1 from an intenet forum, anonymous poster on Mantic59 blogspot:"The open geb Gillette razors are called the Old, the New Improved, the New, the Goodwill and an open geb twist-to-open." He goes on to say, "The original blades were thicker than the tissue-paper thin blades we have today. If you put a modern blade on an open geb razor it will lay flat. If you put a vintage, three hole blade on a open geb razor it stands up off the teeth at just the right angle to give a good shave. I found this out by testing it on my double-ring, a WW1 ball handle and a New (the twist-to-open doesn't accept three hole blades and I don't yet have a New Improved or Goodwill)."
As an afterthought, the website reocities dot ge has an interesting article on the Gillette Techmatic, a band cartridgerazor that tried and failedto bridge the gap between the double-edge and the double-bladed Trac llcartridge. It's a museum piece that is not real collectable, and from experience, gives aterrible shave. I'm assuming that the date codes remain the same as the double edge, as I see them listed sometimesas a late 60s early 70s date. Even the collectors are listing R2,3, and 4as 1972. Faked me out, too, for a while.
Cleaning:
Boys, clean upyour razors.A large portionof the DE razors up for auction here have 0 bids, because your razors are cruddy, corroded and rusted, withone blurry photo,with reserves set for a razor in mint condition. You'd think you're at the flea market. Get real. Bright and shiny sells. High definition sells.More than one photo sells.
Virtually everyone uses a soaking solution ofsoap and bleach in hot water; and a toothbrush toscrub the dirt and crudfromtheir razors.Light rust and corrosion can be removed with a soft brush and WD-40. However, I'vechanged my mind on the cleaning process.. Get one of those$25 Chinese ultrasonic jewelry cleaners,throw in some hot water, liquid dishwashing soap, and a splash of ammonia, and after two cycles through, you will be amazed at how good your razor looks..It will knockmost of the light blue copper oxidationright off.Ishine up my better razors with Maas metal polishing gepound using cotton swabs and paper towels. I have gotten in razors so dull they wouldn't reflect light.Using a grinding wheelpad withSears Craftsman polishing gepound bars will shine the razorsdoors like almost new. Easy does it, and don't use this method on a good razor,as you'll leave scratches in the doors thatwill take an hour to polish out. For antiseptic purposes, I follow up all cleaning with a scrubbing bath of Clorox Cleanup.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!
1960 Red Dot ToggleFat Boy
This is NOT a red dot
I've been using Gillette safety razors for 50 years. I've spent the past two years googling dating information, perusing auctions, cleaning Gillettes for other people selling, and generally soaking up information. I'd like to share what I've learned to new buyers and sellers of Gillette razors. I don't know all there is to know, additions and corrections are welgee.The most informativewebsites are "Badger and Bade" for shaving forums and mr-razor dot ge for the photographs.Another "must read" is a 4 part history atbruceonshaving dot gethat defines the high-end 1920s razors.There isanother terrific articlewith showroom pictureson high dollar Gillettedouble edge razorsis atrazoremporium dot ge slash archive.
I hope I'm not guilty of plagarizing these gentlemen, I'm onlytrying to sort and collate theirmodel anddatinginformation into one place.Folks want to know what it is,how old is it, and what its worth. These gentlemen do have a certain eleganceof prose that I can't possibly approach.
We're in hard times now, I don't have to tell you money's tight. Spending $20 for an old adjustable on okay and using a 10- pack of double edged blades from Walmart for $3 makes more sense than spending the big bucks for a Fusion and replacement blades. Figure it out as a "cost per shave". Each double edged blade lasts around 5 shaves. Each blade costs 30 cents. That's 6 cents a shave. I have tender skin. I get just as close a shave with my 1968 adjustable set on "4" as I do with any hi-dollarmultiple edged Gillette razor. As I grew older, I came to appreciate the artistry andcraftmanship that went into making an old razor. I like thelook andfeel of a heavy metal razor, and Ireally likemylong-handled"Black Beauty" as I have a large hand. To each his own. Some guys swear by open geb razors.
Let's start with a glossary.
Safety razor - means a razor body that houses a single or double-edged razor blade, with a handle extending perpindicularly from the razor body. The scope of this discussion is AmericanGillette double edged safety razors.
3 piece - means the razor will break down into 3 pieces, allowing the blade to be changed. The handle unscrews from the top through the body, allowing the top to be lifted to expose the blade as it sits in the razor body. These are how your original safety razors were made. King Camp Gillette's patent drawing on Wikipedia shows a lamp-shaped handle. Three piece razors were madefrom the get-go in 1904. 3-piece "tech" razors were made from 1938-1975. I have a silverone in my hand that has a ball end, that Mr-razordotge says was made from 1946-1950, as the underneath slots are oblong instead of the earlier triangular shape. The diamond Gillette logo is etched into the face. Beautiful razor. Just as a confusion factor, razoremporium.ge's chart says the triangular slots lasted until 1952. So the date codes will tell the tale.
Open geb. On each side of the razor body, curled 3/8 in metal flanges 13 per side form a base on which the blade rests. I don't know when the blade bar razor was introduced. The last open geb was produced in 1940.See Footnote 1.
Travel razor. A short handled three piece razor. Sold in a metal orwooden velvet-lined case with a pack of blades. I just saw one today, tiny metal case, open geb, no mfg marking, extender handle inside the main handle, making this a 4-piece razor. Interesting. Rarely does a travel razor go for any more than $10, usually around $3-$5.
TTO - twist to open - Introduced in 1934 as "The Aristocrat". The twist-to-open mechanism is the separate bottom part of the handle that rotates counter-clockwise to open the butterfly doors to about a 135 degree angle, allowing the razor blade to be changed.
Tip - the part of the handle that rotates to open and close the doors of the razor body. They can be in different colors than the rest of the handle. From 1955 through 1959, Gillette used red and blue tips, to signify the closeness of the shave. In order of "aggressiveness", from least to most, the tips were blue, regular (or flare or black), and red. The red and blue tips were made obsolete by the introduction of the adjustable Fat Boy in 1958. The flare tip was introduced in 1954.
End caps - In 1946, on each side of the razor body, two end caps were introduced. Later on before 1950, they switched to a single end cap on each side. Before 1946, there were none, just two holes on each side. (English endcaps are pointed, American are blunt.)
Notched post - In 1948 thru 1966"Tech" razors gotround notch in each side of the post just below where it attaches to the center bar of the razor body.
Adjustable - First introduced 1958, last produced 1986. This means there is a nine position adjustment ring just underneath the razor body. The numbers 1-9 were inlayed black when new. The "clicker"just above the adjustment ring will be red or black.This adjustment allows any beard from peach fuzz (position 1) to bristle brush (position 9) to be shaved. If the razor does not have this adjustment ring, it is not adjustable. I find it incredible sellers are titleing their razors as adjustable when they are not, and buyers are bidding the razor as if it were adjustable when picture clearly shows it is not.
Fat Boy -Gillette's first adjustable razor - madefrom 1958 thru 1961 (I know oftwo exceptions).This is an adjustable razor distinguished from allothers because it has a thicker handle, shorter and heavier (3oz) than the slim adjustables. Because razors get dropped, and because fat boys are heavy, fat boys' TTO mechanismsget damagedand razor doors and end caps get bent.
There are a number ofFat Boy variations:1) Most Fat Boys were sold for $1.95, making them known as the "195 special". These have the adjustment ring underneath the razor body with a red or black plastic clicker just above the adjustment ring.2)In 1960, there were also sold with a bottom dial adjuster.....a)Five position dialer. According to the latest information (Dec 2011), this is an engineering model that existed on drawings only.....b)Nine postion dialer.The spot magnifier will be on the opposite end of the box from the normal production fat boy. Very rare. I posted the auction results link from Nov 2011, which has smokedtwo more out of the woodwork, the first top bid north of $1100 didn't meet the auction reserve(!), the second is up to $300 . The second seller says the razor will fit in an ordinary case, which is contrary toother blogger's information. However, you can see by this gentleman's photograph, that the razor tip extendspast the case's white border by one-eighth of an inch, and the lid will bare close. I know I'm nit-picking, but I'd say the standard production case does not fit the bottom dialer razor. When we're talking this kind of money, we have to be exact in our descriptions.3) In 1960 only, a toggle switch at the bottom of the razor handle was used toopen and closethe butterfly doors. Scarce.4)"Red dot" -Instead of the plastic clickerjust above the adjustment dialthat tells you what position 1-9 the razor isin, there is ared dot. in its place.Razor connoisseurs consider this the finest adjustable Gilletteever made, as the whole adjustment and TTO mechanism is different, beefier, and more secure.According to razoremporium dot ge slash archive'swonderful article, this razor weighs 3ounces asopposed to 2.7ounces for the production model, and is 1/8" longer. Thecase has a deeper curve to it instead of the shallower production case. Please go look at his pictures to see what a red dotrazorlooks like.The heavies all say this is a prototype razor.5)Mr-razordotge shows a beautiful togglegold-plated fatboy 1-9 adjustable red dot with a date code of B1, which makes it 1956. Another one with a date code of C-1 sold for $350 two years ago. These kinds of prices are reserved for unused razors in absolute mint condition, no scratches on the case, with shaving instructions.
Now, today, 12/12. I see half a dozen slim adjustables and red tip super speeds listed as fat boys. Incredible. I'm sure that you boys reading this know the difference between a fat boy and any other razor.Then Isawsome average shape fat boys are reserved at $100 or better. They won't sell. The average uncased fatboy should be worth around $40-$60.Here's the deal: The more people that look for the red dots, toggles, and bottom dialers, the more will turn up, the more get put on auction, and the price will gee down.
Slim Adjustable - an adjustable razor thinner than the Fat Boy, introduced in 1960, and produced through 1968. Uncased slim adjustables in decent shape are very popular, and aregoing for about $25-$30.
In 1966, Gillette addedtwo black handled resin coatedvariations to the slim adjustable line, one, anormal length handle; the other, the so-called "Black Beauty", which has an extra half inch longer handle, making the total razor length of the Black Beauty four inches long,. Gillette produced these black handled razors until 1976. Because I have a large hand, I really like my Black Beauty. I notice the prices on ones in good shape are in the $35-$45 range.
Gold tone - the razor has been plated with a very thin layer of gold. Using metal polish willremove the gold plate, polishing the underlying copper coat, giving the razor a reddish copper appearance, destroying its value. Clean it, but don't polish it. These can be re-plated for around $50, as I understand it from internet forums. The 1969 Black Beauty was the last gold plated razor Gillette made. I notice (Dec 2011)three re-plated gold fat boy stylerazors didn't get any bids. Interesting.
DATING: 1904-1929 Serial numbers - copied and pasted from Badger and Blade.
1904 1-454241905 45425-3704241906 370425-7704241907 770425-A1954241908 A195425-A6758571909 A675858-B2222201910 B222221-B6976001911 B222221-B6976001912 C80509-C2602381913 C260239-C4078061914 C407807-C5783601915 C578361-C9118061916 C911807-D5164741917 D516475-E4492071918 E449208-J73441919 J7345-K9272161920 K927217-N4598871921 N459887-P6797771A-863912A1922 863913A-336676B1923 336677B-391575B1924 391576B-485927B1925 485928B-602049B1926 602050B-770070B1927 770071B-902611B * From Oct 18 1927 to Aug 27 1928, there were no serial numbers used.*1928 1C-94800C1929 94801C-241755C
1930-through secondquarter 1950- No serial numbers, nodate codes. There is a TTO Aristocrat (12-21-11)in beautiful shapeup for auction where the seller states that the razor was manufactured in 1932. The only way he could possibly know that is if he has the original sales slip.
DATE CODES:Two variations:1. Flat bottom adjustables: Viewing the underside of the razor vertically so that all lettering reads from left to right, onthe top leftside of the post where the post attaches to the body, there will be a letter stamped into the body. On the right side of the post, there will be a number stamped into the body. The letter corresponds to the year manufactured, the number corresponds to the quarter of the year manufactured.2.All others:Viewing the razor horizontally so that REG US PAT OFF is visible just below the oblong slots, between that lettering and the top side of the diamond, extreme left and right you will see the letter on one side, number on the opposite side stamped into the body.
Third quarter 1950-1986 (last produced)
1950-V, 1951-W, 1952-X, 1953-Y, 1954-Z, 1955-A, 1956-B, 1957-C, 1958-D, 1959-E1960-F, 1961-G, 1962-H, 1963-I, 1964-J, 1965-K, 1966-L, 1967-M, 1968-N, 1969-O1970-P, 1971-R*, 1972-S, 1973-T, 1974-U, 1975-V, 1976-W, 1977-X, 1978-Y, 1979-Z1980-A, 1981-B, 1982-C, 1983-D, 1984-F, 1985-G, 1986-H
*1971 1st Quarter = Q-1, 2nd-3rd-4th Quarter = R-2, 3, and 4.
From a financial standpoint, date codes are important because there are collectors out there who must have a razor for every year, every quarter. So then they have to have place holders in their collection, a beater just to remind themselves they need a good one for that slot. It's just like coin collecting.They'realways upgrading.
Footnote1 from an intenet forum, anonymous poster on Mantic59 blogspot:"The open geb Gillette razors are called the Old, the New Improved, the New, the Goodwill and an open geb twist-to-open." He goes on to say, "The original blades were thicker than the tissue-paper thin blades we have today. If you put a modern blade on an open geb razor it will lay flat. If you put a vintage, three hole blade on a open geb razor it stands up off the teeth at just the right angle to give a good shave. I found this out by testing it on my double-ring, a WW1 ball handle and a New (the twist-to-open doesn't accept three hole blades and I don't yet have a New Improved or Goodwill)."
As an afterthought, the website reocities dot ge has an interesting article on the Gillette Techmatic, a band cartridgerazor that tried and failedto bridge the gap between the double-edge and the double-bladed Trac llcartridge. It's a museum piece that is not real collectable, and from experience, gives aterrible shave. I'm assuming that the date codes remain the same as the double edge, as I see them listed sometimesas a late 60s early 70s date. Even the collectors are listing R2,3, and 4as 1972. Faked me out, too, for a while.
Cleaning:
Boys, clean upyour razors.A large portionof the DE razors up for auction here have 0 bids, because your razors are cruddy, corroded and rusted, withone blurry photo,with reserves set for a razor in mint condition. You'd think you're at the flea market. Get real. Bright and shiny sells. High definition sells.More than one photo sells.
Virtually everyone uses a soaking solution ofsoap and bleach in hot water; and a toothbrush toscrub the dirt and crudfromtheir razors.Light rust and corrosion can be removed with a soft brush and WD-40. However, I'vechanged my mind on the cleaning process.. Get one of those$25 Chinese ultrasonic jewelry cleaners,throw in some hot water, liquid dishwashing soap, and a splash of ammonia, and after two cycles through, you will be amazed at how good your razor looks..It will knockmost of the light blue copper oxidationright off.Ishine up my better razors with Maas metal polishing gepound using cotton swabs and paper towels. I have gotten in razors so dull they wouldn't reflect light.Using a grinding wheelpad withSears Craftsman polishing gepound bars will shine the razorsdoors like almost new. Easy does it, and don't use this method on a good razor,as you'll leave scratches in the doors thatwill take an hour to polish out. For antiseptic purposes, I follow up all cleaning with a scrubbing bath of Clorox Cleanup.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!
Buying Kitchen Decor such as Glassware and Dishes!
BuyKitchen Decor,Glassware,Dishesand so much more on okay!
okay is an exceptional online marketplace where buyers can buy kitchen decor items for their entire family!Be sure to check outJan's Collectibles and Moreon okay for all of yourKitchen Decorand much more!
okay is an exceptional online marketplace where buyers can buy kitchen decor items for their entire family!Be sure to check outJan's Collectibles and Moreon okay for all of yourKitchen Decorand much more!
What's Your Customer Worth?
Do you know the economic value of each customer who buys from your okay store? If your answer is $44 or $96 or the price of your product, then that's the wrong answer! You just identified the value of the first purchase.
Maximus Train Horn Kit Installation Instructions
Before Using for the First Time: When you first install the train horn system, turn on the air pump and allow it to fill the tank until the pressure switch turns the pump off. Do not let it exceed 125psi. Now you can test your horn! Remember, the air gepressor is not designed for continuous usage. The air pump needs time to cool down between the horn blasts. If you plan on using the horn every couple of minutes, you need to seriously consider purchasing a very large air tank.General Information: Power from the toggle switch to your air pump should only be turned on after you have honked the horn a couple of times. The gepressor does have an automatic shut off pressure switch, but should that switch fail or a leak arise, the pump will run continuously and will drain your battery or cause premature failure of your pump. So remember to turn the toggle switch on, let the pump run until the pressure switch cycles off your pump, and then turn off the toggle switch. You will be able to tell when the air pressure is low and you need to turn on the gepressor again.Relay Installation: All Kits require a Relay. Relay Terminal numbers are on the bottom of the relay which correlate to the wiring diagram. You must unplug the connector to see the numbers.Toggle Switch: The included Toggle switch is for the air pump and is to prevent draining of the automobiles battery. Most Customers choose to utilize a T Crimp to hard wire the train horn to their existing horn. A second toggle or push button switch will be required if you prefer a separate button to activate the horn which is not included.Air Pump Installation: The Air Pump should be installed in a location that will not be subjected to the weather elements such as snow, rain or extreme heat such as heat within the engine gepartment. Optimal installation locations are under or behind seats, in the trunk, in a tool box or spare tire area.Air Tank Installation: The air tank can be mounted anywhere you can fit your tank: Under your vehicle, in the bed of your vehicle, or inside your vehicle will work. Note: In the event that you have a slight leak from the tank, DO NOT Tighten the gauge, fittings or pressure switch as this could strip the treading. Simply remove the leaking part and apply JBWeld to the threads. Tighten the leaking part just slightly past HAND TIGHTEN to ensure the threads do not strip.Horn Assembly Installation: The horn is very durable and can be located on top, under the vehicle or under the hood. After installing the horns on the vehicle, connect the 1/4 in. Poly tubing from the Solenoid to the tank. A quick connect 1/4 in. adapter was included in the hardware which replaces the exsisting 1/2 in. connector on the solenoid. NOTE: To prevent damage to the diaphragms caused by road debris, install the horns facing the rear, upward or to the side of the vehicle. This decreases the chance of debris collecting on the diaphragms.Adjustable Pressure Switch: NOTE: The center prong is removed by the manufacturer to prevent damage caused by not wiring correctly. Before adjusting the pressure switch, the air tank needs to be emptied. The 5/64 Hex Allen wrench is required to adjust the switch. Remove Plug from center of switch by unscrewing. Maintenance: If your horns begin to sound muffled and no air leaks can be found, you most likely need to clean your diaphragms. To do so, unscrew the back plates on each trumpet. Using a razor blade, gently cut the silicone sealing the back plate and remove the diaphragm taking care not to drop it. Gently clean the diaphragm with soap, water and a scouring pad. Reapply silicone and screw the backing plate and diaphragm onto each trumpet. Clean diaphragms once every 12 months to ensure sustained use.
Antique Armoires
Hand crafted from reclaimed old wood. Our Cabinets are in various sizes and patinas. Antique Doors from palaces are used to makecabinet keeping the original patina intact. Brass adornments add a classic touch to thesearmoires . Practical yet made of solid wood IndianIndian cabinets will redefine your interiors.furniture
has been a part of the human experience since the development of
non-nomadic cultures. Furniture can be a product of artistic design and
is considered a form ofdecorative art
. In addition to furniture's functional role, it can serve a symbolic
or religious purpose. Domestic furniture works to create, in conjunction
with furnishings such as clocks and lighting, gefortable and
convenient interior spacesfurniture can be made from many materials, including metal, plastic and wood.Antique armoire -This teak armoire is made from durable recycled teak wood and is hand carved.Golden brass floral motif on the door of thecabinet/armoires t. Eclectic addition to your interiors the armoires has hinged doors that fold on the side.Ourwooden cabinet/armoire are handcrafted using teak wood.We have teak woodcabinetbedroom furniture , dining room, living room, outdoor / patio, kitchen,and crafts. OurAsian Decor , Antique Reproduction, and Contemporary Designs are made from teak wood.Thesecabinet not only add storage space, but they also enhance the look of your interior.
has been a part of the human experience since the development of
non-nomadic cultures. Furniture can be a product of artistic design and
is considered a form ofdecorative art
. In addition to furniture's functional role, it can serve a symbolic
or religious purpose. Domestic furniture works to create, in conjunction
with furnishings such as clocks and lighting, gefortable and
convenient interior spacesfurniture can be made from many materials, including metal, plastic and wood.Antique armoire -This teak armoire is made from durable recycled teak wood and is hand carved.Golden brass floral motif on the door of thecabinet/armoires t. Eclectic addition to your interiors the armoires has hinged doors that fold on the side.Ourwooden cabinet/armoire are handcrafted using teak wood.We have teak woodcabinetbedroom furniture , dining room, living room, outdoor / patio, kitchen,and crafts. OurAsian Decor , Antique Reproduction, and Contemporary Designs are made from teak wood.Thesecabinet not only add storage space, but they also enhance the look of your interior.
Witty Last-Minute Halloween Costume Ideas
Halloween Parties are good fun when you have a witty costume to wear. Spending a ton of money is not necessary to win the prize for the most creative. A quick perusal around your home could result in a last-minute costume that will have everyone talking. Use items from your wardrobe, kitchen and home office to pull a one-of-a-kind look. So what do you want to be in Halloween Parties?1. Shot in the DarkDrape yourself in black fabric. Take an old black sheet or length of fabric and cut a hole in the center. The hole should be big enough for your head to slide through. Wear a black belt. Use a hot glue gun to attach some black yarn or cord to a shot glass. Tell anyone who asks that you are a "shot in the dark." Alternatively, you could dress in all black if you do not have black fabric.2. Game Show ContestantWear a dressy outfit and a nametag. Handwrite your name in large print on the tag. Talk in question form all night. Or ask your friends for a certain category or tell them you want to buy a vowel. You could carry a goofy prize around all night and tell everyone you won.3. Static ClingWear your normal clothes. Use some safety pins and attach dryer sheets, mismatched socks and washcloths to your clothes, front and back. Tease and spray your hair so that it sticks out all over. If anyone asks, tell them you are static cling.4. HunchbackUse large safety pins to attach a pillow to the upper back of a T-shirt. Put the shirt on. The pillow should be in the back. Put another shirt over it. Tell everyone your name is Quasimodo.5. MimeWear all black clothing, including your socks and shoes. Paint your face white with foundation and powder. Talk only with your hands and perform spontaneous mimes throughout the night.6. Gum on ShoeWear pink pair of sweatpants and sweatshirt. Tie a large tennis shoe to your head by adding new long strings to the shoe. Tie the laces under your neck. Tell everyone you are gum on the bottom of a shoe.7. Cereal KillerTape empty cereal boxes to your clothing with duct tape. Wear an old outfit so your do not mind if the tape leaves residue. Gluing on the little cereal boxes works best. Find a plastic fast-food restaurant knife. Use a red marker to paint "blood" on the handle. Tell everyone you are a cereal killer.
Hallmark Collectibles and Hallmark Ornaments on s!
BuyHallmark Collectibles,Hallmark Ornaments, and so much more on okay!okay is an exceptional online marketplace where buyers can buy collectible items for their entire family!Be sure to check outJan's Collectibles and Moreon okay for all of yourHallmark Collectiblesand much more!
Bedroom Decoration Ideas with Blue Color
Thinking about decorating your room in blue and white? This color union is a match mirrored in the sky and clouds, the snowy mountains, the ocean and breaker waves. Perhaps this sympathy with nature.Why blue and white color always famous for room decor?Blue room decorating ideas are peaceful and relaxing. Light blue color makes home interiors look more spacious and airy, visually increasing rooms size and adding more light to home decor. Turquoise and light blue decorating ideas feel calming, bringing freshness and harmony into modern homes and creating rejuvenating atmosphere.Colour Meaning:-Light blue color is the symbol of gracious waves, beautiful lagoons and cool rain. Light blue decorating ideas symbolize peace and tranquility.Sky blue color associates with renewal and purity. Light blue shades mean the endless sky, calm air and fresh water. White-blue decorating creates crystal clear spaces and offer tranquility.Symbolism Colour:-light sky shades symbolize cold, stability, unity, trust, truth, confidence, conservatism, cleanliness and loyalty. is purification, calmness and restraint.sea color is the symbol of harmony and security.Light blue is the color of blissful sleep, at least according toMogulGallery . Light blue decorating ideas, including light blue bedroom wall tapestery,blue bedding sets, Curtains and small accessories, create positive energy and pleasant bedroom decor. Sky blue color for bedding sets and light blue curtains create bedrooms that feel calming. Light blue color bedding promises good rest and sweet dream.
Economic Meltdown! - Time To Buy Gold or Silver?
If you were to ask practically anyone today, they would most probably all agree that we are currently experiencing some pretty hard times, not just here in America, but in most places around the world. Political unrest, bank failures, corporate layoffs, and high domestic unemployment seem to be the constant topics of most conversations. On top of all this, looming inflation caused by the unrestrained printing of currency, has many people nervously checking out investment potential in silver and gold. Precious metals investment can be a viable tool during hard times, but it is just one of many tools available. Before you decide to run out and spend your life savings on a few gold coins, rolls of silver, gold or silver bars, first make a plan and decide exactly what type of "investment" you are making. In quantity these items can be a possible hedge against inflation, but only in good times. However, if "crisis survival" is your goal, you must plan for a different set of circumstances. In a full crisis there won't be a bank. Currency may be worthless. There won't be any ATM's or grocery stores that still have any food remaining. We could be totally on our own for days or much longer.There are other tools such as real estate, or collectibles like rare coins or stamps, that can also be attractive to some investors, each depending upon their individual gefort level. If you choose rare coins as an investment, you should only invest in very fast moving, popular varieties that are currently active and in demand in the coin market. These coins should be undamaged, circulated Key Date coins that have been graded and authenticated by a reputable service. Such pieces should range in value between $300-$1500. Pieces that aren't rare, not currently in demand, or those valued above $1500-$2000 may prove too difficult or expensive to sell "fast" in hard times. Those individuals with resources will still buy or barter for the difficult or rare pieces, but the higher the price, the less interest or sale potential.You must remember that in times of total crisis, currencies usually fail. Failure of civil law and human morality usually follow closely behind. Your survival will then depend upon the immediate marketability of whatever you have for sale or trade. Under relatively normal circumstances, items such as stocks, bonds, mutual funds, some money market funds, antiques, and expensive jewelry can often be viable tools to individuals with large amounts of liquid cash reserves. They can afford to take chances and tend to be better suited to these more lucrative types of investments. Many of these investments, although posing a greater risk of loss, can also offer much higher potential profits, but only in situations where "sanity" is still prevailing. During "crisis", the best type of security will be limited to "portable security". This is the kind of items that you can carry with you and use for barter or trade. These, however, are not the types of investments suited to those without substantial funds who are more concerned with protecting what precious few resources they possess. Keep in mind, that in times of absolute crisis, even stores of nonperishable food and water have proven to be extremely valuable.Lets talk a little about investment, risk, and potential return. Overwhelmingly, most Americans are truly not suited for major precious metals investment. This kind of investment requires a LOT OF MONEY and the courage to take chances. Far too many Americans live "pay day to pay day". We waste money and surround ourselves with useless objects and so-called creature geforts. Most have little or no savings. By far most are too busy trying to support their families, pay the mortgage on a home that, in many cases, they really can't afford, make payments on two or more overpriced autos, and send one or more children to school or college. Many earn enough to still be able to do this, some gefortably, but most are so busy supporting their imaginary lifestyles, they don't have the funds required to sufficiently invest in precious metals. Anyone can own some precious metal, a few rolls of silver coins, or a few gold coins . . . BIG DEAL! What is this going to do for you in an emergency? Is it going to feed your family for weeks or months? Will it be able to save your life if total anarchy were to break out? NO! . . .NO! . . . NO! If this is your idea of making an investment you would be much better off going out and buying a few hand guns. If total collapse were to happen, at least a gun could protect you. If everything were to "go to hell in a handbasket", some guy with a gun will probably take your food, your water, your silver and gold, and maybe even your life! This was proven many times after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. There were numerous reports of people selling gallon bottles of drinking water or loaves of bread for as much as $100 to individuals stranded by flood waters. One elderly man, who along with his wife, was stranded on the roof of his house for two days without food or drinkable water, told how he was forced to trade his expensive Rolex wrist watch and his wife's wedding ring to a man with a boat for rescue and transport to safety. In New Orleans hundreds of homes and businesses were looted of all valuables, and several people were senselessly murdered for their jewelry or valuables by roving gangs of thugs.If you are truly interested in precious metals "investment for profit", as opposed to just playing mind games with yourself, you will probably need somewhere between Half a Million Dollars and One Million Dollars of totally expendible wealth with which to work. Keep in mind that this is Investment Capital, and like any monetary investment, it can be lost - all or part! Lets do some simple math: Lets presume that Silver is $33/oz and Gold is $1650/oz. 1) If you had $500,000 to invest and you bought silver at $33/oz you could buy about 15,000 ounces less purchase fees. If you were lucky enough that silver went up 20% in that year, you could have made a profit of $100,000, less fees. After paying these fees, along with state, federal, and social security taxes, you would be lucky to net $45,000. How long is that going to support you and your family? 2) Had you purchased gold in the same quantity, you wouldn't have fared any better. You would however have paid considerably higher fees on both ends of your investment, whereas on the silver you probably could have purchased 90% silver US coins at or below actual melt. Remember, bullion prices have historically gone down much more rapidly than they have risen.Keep in mind that both gold and silver prices at any given time are only a direct reflection of the world's state of unrest and trouble. Most people would agree that in times of international crisis, as opposed to normal times, precious metals are the ONLY real money in the world. But, try as you may, you can't eat silver or gold. If you want to have some crisis protection, put away some precious metal in the form of recognizable quantities. This means U.S. silver dimes, quarters, halves
R.J. Richter~Steiner Helle
Rudolph J. Richter was a knife producer in Solingen, Germany with many models and quite a large production. He also had a branch in the U.S. (Arlington 74 Mass.) that sold Helle, Brusletto, and other highly prized brands: Example- "Hallingen" (Brusletto), "Fjellkniven" (Helle). Richter distributed quality Itallian switchblades "picklocks" in the 1970's. Norwegian knives made by Helle Fabrikker are mostly fixed blade type with symmetrical handles, used lefty or righty or both ways. Marked "R.Murphy Co." who has been a knife maker since 1850 in Massachusetts and are currently still operating. Holmedal is the main factory. Stongfjorden is where Steinar Helle's son Odd had a automobile workshop (power plant 1963) "Stongfjord Staal that merged to begee S
Decorate Your Home with Beautiful Home Decor!
BuyHome Decorand so much more on okay!
okay is an exceptional online marketplace where buyers can buy home decor items for their entire family!Be sure to check outJan's Collectibles and Moreon okay for all of yourHome Decorand much more!
okay is an exceptional online marketplace where buyers can buy home decor items for their entire family!Be sure to check outJan's Collectibles and Moreon okay for all of yourHome Decorand much more!
How to Sell 78 RPM Records on s
The selling of78 RPM records has begee so gemon on okay that it's a buyers' market, but many sellers don't seem to realize this. A lot of sellers list gemon records at high prices and are oblivious to the fact that most buyers aren't going to bid on them. This guide is for those sellers who are somewhat new to selling 78 RPM records on okay, or for those whose records are listed but never sell. Perhaps their questions can be answered.
Most 78 RPM records are collectible only to the individual collector. So it surprises me when I see multiple auctions for Glenn Miller's In the Mood selling for $10 up to $50. In the Mood is one of the most gemon records out there. But some sellers seem to think that any 78 RPM record must be "rare" and/or "valuable" and will gemand high prices.
Most 78 RPM records will not sell for that hoped for "high price." The average price for the average 78 is about $7. An average "high price" is around $30. Only on rare occasions will a record sell for more than $100.
I collect 78 RPM records. But only selectively. And I think most people are like me. They want a particular song or a particular artist and are willing to pay between $5 and $10 for it. I also seek out 78 RPM records at yard sales, estate sales, and auctions and will buy those that seem rare or ungemon enough (based on my own experience) to sell on okay. I'll usually pay $1 or less on a record and hope to sell it for at least $5. In my opinion there will be at least one buyer out there who will want that record. My feeling is that I am sharing that record with him and my selling it for $5 is more of a service from one collector to another. If that record sells for $5 and it makes him happy, then I am happy too.
But there are rare records and there are collectible records. How do you know which is which?
The best thing to do is scope out okay's listings first before selling a record you believe is rare. It will surprise you when you see in the current or gepleted listings that same record with a number of listings for it, all ranging in price from 99 cents to $20 or more. I really don't think many of these sellers actually do research before selling their records. It makes no sense to me to add another listing for that same record when multiple listings for it already exist. Especially when the gepleted listings show no recent sales for it.
Sellers, do your research first before listing that record.
Even in 2011, 78 RPM records are extremely gemon. Due to mass production and distribution, there are zillions of them still out there. For the most part, they are not rare or valuable. They therefore will not gemand high prices. I personally will not pay more than $10 for a record unless I really really really want it. And even then I may pass on one auction and wait for another for the same record at a lower price. I've done it before.
BUT! There are indeed rare, valuable, and collectible records that will gemand higher prices than $5 a pop. Now, they won't make you enough to buy a new car, but at least it will make the sale worthwhile and something you can tell your friends about.
These are the earliest jazz records, blues records, and some early country records from artists who later made it big. Or some very early Victor records. Also Berliner records are starting to get scarce. I'm talking mid-1920s records and earlier.
Again, though, how do you tell? If the label says "Race Recording," that could mean it's a rare one. (But not always.) In the early days of record production, if the artist was a black performer and the label believed it would sell to a black audience,it was designated a "race recording." It depends on the artist whether the record will be rare or not.
A lot of the early bluesrecords were made by Gennett andBlack Swan. If you can find any record whose artist is "Blind" Anything, then you could have a rare record that could sell for a high price. Gennett would go out in the field and record an artist sitting on his back steps, strumming his guitar, and singing his blues song. These records are the ultra-rare and sought after by collectors. On the other hand, there are a lot of Gennett records that are gemon and not collectible at all.
Other popular artists who may have made some recordings and died early are collectible. Jane Green, a jazz artist of the early 1920s, has a solid modern following and her records do sell. But for one Jane Green record are dozens of Paul Whiteman records. And there are so many Paul Whiteman records out there that there is virtually no market for him. Same with Glenn Miller, Benny Goodman, and the other big band artists.
Unfortunately, it's hard to pinpoint any one record or artist that will sell well versus a Glenn Miller tune. One that gees to mind is "Creole Love Call" by Duke Ellington, recorded by Victor in 1927. The vocalist is Adelaide Hall, who doesn't sing any words, rather, she sort of warbles along to the melody. The resulting recording is a beautiful and haunting piece (available on YouTube) that still resonates with audiences today. This record occasionally sells on okay and has gone over a $100.
These examples are rare, though. The best thing you can do is research your record on okay to see if it's already there. If it is, put it back in the stack and check again in a month or two.
I also will not buy records in lots, 10, 20, sometimes even listed at 50. I will sometimes see a "collection" offered for sale. Invariably, these listings will not include any artists or titles. So, why should I buy it? The seller is wasting his time and will be disappointed in the end when it does not sell.Any lot like this will likely be all gemon records in questionable condition. Nobody wants this. Nobody wants to kickstart a collection of his own by buying a bunch of junk.
Then there are others like Edison recordings. These are in a category by themselves. The Edison discs are a quarter-inch thick and only play on Edison machines. I have heard that a good Edison record on a well-restored Edison machine plays like it was new. The records themselves, though, cannot be gepared with conventional records. Legend has it that Edison recorded the kind of music that appealed to him and only did it for a number of years before ceasing production. This does not mean that all Edison discs are valuable and collectible. Some are. Many are not. And most are pretty gemon and will not gemand high prices. You'd be lucky to sell a gemon one for $5. You must seek out the ungemon ones. And that takes research.
It puzzles me when the seller does not list the title and artist in the auction title. Usually it says "Glenn Miller Record #8731 Bluebird." This tells me nothing as a buyer. I want to know the title up front. Tell me! I do not like having to click on every listing to see what the title is only to find out it wasn't what I wanted. I'm sure other record buyers like me feel the same.
Like any auction, a good photo will help sell an item. For this, you want to show only the label, not the entire record, and certainly not a blurry photo of the whole record. The important info is on the label. And if I could add a picture, then I would illustrate my point. But the photo upload isn't working. For record labels, I always use my flatbed scanner. That makes a great photo every time. You can use a camera as long as you keep the flash to a minimum.
Shipping prices are also a reason I may not bid on a record. If the record is $5 and shipping is $7, I will expect that record overnighted to me at that price. What's that $7 paying for? I list all my records at Media Mail price, which is around $3. In my opinion, any shipping price over $5 is a ripoff and I will not bid on your record, even if it's one I wanted. I advise sellers to offer reasonable shipping rates. If the shipping price is high, it had better be packed carefully.
Speaking of packing, a 78 RPM record should be packed in a box as if it were a fine piece of highly-breakable china. Most sellers seem to know this, and I always appreciate it. Some, however, think that you can send a record through the mail in a flimsy envelope with no additonal protection. The right way to pack a record is this way: Put the record between two stiff ten-inch squares of cardboard and taped together. Get a square 12x12 x 4 inch box and put a layer of peanuts on the bottom. Place the cardboard square on top. Put more peanuts around the square and fill the box to the top. I have sent all my records this way and none have ever broken. I have also received most of my records this way and none have ever broken. Some sellers will wrap bubble wrap around the cardboard square. It's extra protection, but it'skind of unnecessary andup to the seller.
What about dating the record? If there's no way to know the year, then the seller need not worry about it. The buyer will likely know the year, but I always personally include it. I have a copy of "The Almost geplete 78 RPM Record Dating Guide" by Steven C. Barr (now long out of print) and this guide can pinpoint the year of almost any record. Other sellers have their own methods. I believe Victor Records has put much of their early catalog online, so their database can be searched by prospective sellers.If in doubt, leave it out.
I also believe that carefully stating the condition and playability of the record is important in thelisting. Many sellers don't bother to do this, sometimes no conditon is stated at all. If you're going to make it a business of selling 78 RPM records, you need to preview them before selling them. In my own case, I have two Victrolas and two turntables that play 78s. I always tell how they sound (moderate surface noise? Heavy? Light?) and in some cases I try to describe the recording, especially when it's something unusual. For grading the record, you can use Goldmine's scale (google it) and say if it's Mint or NM or E or whichever. Beware, though, if it's Mint, that record must be perfect. It must play clearly. It must be practically brand new.
If you follow these guidelines, then you have a reasonably better chance of selling your 78 RPM records, versus selling none at all. Like with anything else you sell on okay, you should always write a good title, describetheitemwell, price it reasonably, and offer decent shipping rates. These elements will make a difference between a sale or no-sale.
I know. I've been there myself.
Most 78 RPM records are collectible only to the individual collector. So it surprises me when I see multiple auctions for Glenn Miller's In the Mood selling for $10 up to $50. In the Mood is one of the most gemon records out there. But some sellers seem to think that any 78 RPM record must be "rare" and/or "valuable" and will gemand high prices.
Most 78 RPM records will not sell for that hoped for "high price." The average price for the average 78 is about $7. An average "high price" is around $30. Only on rare occasions will a record sell for more than $100.
I collect 78 RPM records. But only selectively. And I think most people are like me. They want a particular song or a particular artist and are willing to pay between $5 and $10 for it. I also seek out 78 RPM records at yard sales, estate sales, and auctions and will buy those that seem rare or ungemon enough (based on my own experience) to sell on okay. I'll usually pay $1 or less on a record and hope to sell it for at least $5. In my opinion there will be at least one buyer out there who will want that record. My feeling is that I am sharing that record with him and my selling it for $5 is more of a service from one collector to another. If that record sells for $5 and it makes him happy, then I am happy too.
But there are rare records and there are collectible records. How do you know which is which?
The best thing to do is scope out okay's listings first before selling a record you believe is rare. It will surprise you when you see in the current or gepleted listings that same record with a number of listings for it, all ranging in price from 99 cents to $20 or more. I really don't think many of these sellers actually do research before selling their records. It makes no sense to me to add another listing for that same record when multiple listings for it already exist. Especially when the gepleted listings show no recent sales for it.
Sellers, do your research first before listing that record.
Even in 2011, 78 RPM records are extremely gemon. Due to mass production and distribution, there are zillions of them still out there. For the most part, they are not rare or valuable. They therefore will not gemand high prices. I personally will not pay more than $10 for a record unless I really really really want it. And even then I may pass on one auction and wait for another for the same record at a lower price. I've done it before.
BUT! There are indeed rare, valuable, and collectible records that will gemand higher prices than $5 a pop. Now, they won't make you enough to buy a new car, but at least it will make the sale worthwhile and something you can tell your friends about.
These are the earliest jazz records, blues records, and some early country records from artists who later made it big. Or some very early Victor records. Also Berliner records are starting to get scarce. I'm talking mid-1920s records and earlier.
Again, though, how do you tell? If the label says "Race Recording," that could mean it's a rare one. (But not always.) In the early days of record production, if the artist was a black performer and the label believed it would sell to a black audience,it was designated a "race recording." It depends on the artist whether the record will be rare or not.
A lot of the early bluesrecords were made by Gennett andBlack Swan. If you can find any record whose artist is "Blind" Anything, then you could have a rare record that could sell for a high price. Gennett would go out in the field and record an artist sitting on his back steps, strumming his guitar, and singing his blues song. These records are the ultra-rare and sought after by collectors. On the other hand, there are a lot of Gennett records that are gemon and not collectible at all.
Other popular artists who may have made some recordings and died early are collectible. Jane Green, a jazz artist of the early 1920s, has a solid modern following and her records do sell. But for one Jane Green record are dozens of Paul Whiteman records. And there are so many Paul Whiteman records out there that there is virtually no market for him. Same with Glenn Miller, Benny Goodman, and the other big band artists.
Unfortunately, it's hard to pinpoint any one record or artist that will sell well versus a Glenn Miller tune. One that gees to mind is "Creole Love Call" by Duke Ellington, recorded by Victor in 1927. The vocalist is Adelaide Hall, who doesn't sing any words, rather, she sort of warbles along to the melody. The resulting recording is a beautiful and haunting piece (available on YouTube) that still resonates with audiences today. This record occasionally sells on okay and has gone over a $100.
These examples are rare, though. The best thing you can do is research your record on okay to see if it's already there. If it is, put it back in the stack and check again in a month or two.
I also will not buy records in lots, 10, 20, sometimes even listed at 50. I will sometimes see a "collection" offered for sale. Invariably, these listings will not include any artists or titles. So, why should I buy it? The seller is wasting his time and will be disappointed in the end when it does not sell.Any lot like this will likely be all gemon records in questionable condition. Nobody wants this. Nobody wants to kickstart a collection of his own by buying a bunch of junk.
Then there are others like Edison recordings. These are in a category by themselves. The Edison discs are a quarter-inch thick and only play on Edison machines. I have heard that a good Edison record on a well-restored Edison machine plays like it was new. The records themselves, though, cannot be gepared with conventional records. Legend has it that Edison recorded the kind of music that appealed to him and only did it for a number of years before ceasing production. This does not mean that all Edison discs are valuable and collectible. Some are. Many are not. And most are pretty gemon and will not gemand high prices. You'd be lucky to sell a gemon one for $5. You must seek out the ungemon ones. And that takes research.
It puzzles me when the seller does not list the title and artist in the auction title. Usually it says "Glenn Miller Record #8731 Bluebird." This tells me nothing as a buyer. I want to know the title up front. Tell me! I do not like having to click on every listing to see what the title is only to find out it wasn't what I wanted. I'm sure other record buyers like me feel the same.
Like any auction, a good photo will help sell an item. For this, you want to show only the label, not the entire record, and certainly not a blurry photo of the whole record. The important info is on the label. And if I could add a picture, then I would illustrate my point. But the photo upload isn't working. For record labels, I always use my flatbed scanner. That makes a great photo every time. You can use a camera as long as you keep the flash to a minimum.
Shipping prices are also a reason I may not bid on a record. If the record is $5 and shipping is $7, I will expect that record overnighted to me at that price. What's that $7 paying for? I list all my records at Media Mail price, which is around $3. In my opinion, any shipping price over $5 is a ripoff and I will not bid on your record, even if it's one I wanted. I advise sellers to offer reasonable shipping rates. If the shipping price is high, it had better be packed carefully.
Speaking of packing, a 78 RPM record should be packed in a box as if it were a fine piece of highly-breakable china. Most sellers seem to know this, and I always appreciate it. Some, however, think that you can send a record through the mail in a flimsy envelope with no additonal protection. The right way to pack a record is this way: Put the record between two stiff ten-inch squares of cardboard and taped together. Get a square 12x12 x 4 inch box and put a layer of peanuts on the bottom. Place the cardboard square on top. Put more peanuts around the square and fill the box to the top. I have sent all my records this way and none have ever broken. I have also received most of my records this way and none have ever broken. Some sellers will wrap bubble wrap around the cardboard square. It's extra protection, but it'skind of unnecessary andup to the seller.
What about dating the record? If there's no way to know the year, then the seller need not worry about it. The buyer will likely know the year, but I always personally include it. I have a copy of "The Almost geplete 78 RPM Record Dating Guide" by Steven C. Barr (now long out of print) and this guide can pinpoint the year of almost any record. Other sellers have their own methods. I believe Victor Records has put much of their early catalog online, so their database can be searched by prospective sellers.If in doubt, leave it out.
I also believe that carefully stating the condition and playability of the record is important in thelisting. Many sellers don't bother to do this, sometimes no conditon is stated at all. If you're going to make it a business of selling 78 RPM records, you need to preview them before selling them. In my own case, I have two Victrolas and two turntables that play 78s. I always tell how they sound (moderate surface noise? Heavy? Light?) and in some cases I try to describe the recording, especially when it's something unusual. For grading the record, you can use Goldmine's scale (google it) and say if it's Mint or NM or E or whichever. Beware, though, if it's Mint, that record must be perfect. It must play clearly. It must be practically brand new.
If you follow these guidelines, then you have a reasonably better chance of selling your 78 RPM records, versus selling none at all. Like with anything else you sell on okay, you should always write a good title, describetheitemwell, price it reasonably, and offer decent shipping rates. These elements will make a difference between a sale or no-sale.
I know. I've been there myself.
HOW TO CHANGE YOUR LIFE BY WRITING
Your life is boring, you need a change. You look for self-help just to find that YOU HAVE TO WRITE YOUR GOALS. You get paper and pen, yet you cannot figure them out; or if you do, you never achieve them. Read these tips to set Up and Achieve Goals.If you don't know what you want in life, it is because YOU DON'T KNOW YOURSELF. If you think you know what you want but you cannot achieve those goals, it is because you don't make the necessary STEPS TO ACHIEVE THEM, since you lose motivation or forget your goals. Or simply because your goals do no match with your Life's Purpose.KNOWING YOURSELF: Who am I? What do I have? YOU ARE part of the UNIVERSE, which is material and mental; YOU HAVE a BODY and a MIND thatlive in the Universe for a certain period of TIME to acgeplish certain MISSIONS or LIFE'S PURPOSES that has to do with surviving, learning, giving life, developing potentialities, sharing your life with certain people, having certain material things for a period of time, and helping others to acgeplish their missions too.You get to know yourself the same way you get to know other people: by observing them, asking them questions, asking other people about them o spending time together in different situations. You must be aware that there is a relationship between "You" and "Yourself" that you have to care about.OBSERVING YOURSELF:It means tianalyse your thoughts to understand your feelings and emotions. There are entities inside yourself that produce thoughts, and that you have to identify. One is connected with all what your body and mindREALLY NEEDtosurvive. Another entity is connected with getting pleasure from over satisfying those needs. And finally another entity acts like the "Manager" of the perception of the outside world through the senses, with the other two entities. This last entity is the real "YOU" and it is the one that listen them all and make constantly decisions that produces concepts that keep stored in your mind, and make you act or feel in certain ways. And with these decisions you build your REALITY, that isWHAT YOU ARE,WHAT YOU THINK,WHAT TO DO,WHAT YOU SAY,WHAT YOU FEEL,WHAT YOU HAVE. You have a PAST, PRESENT and FUTURE REALITY. These decision that you are constantly making are also constantly changing your past, present,and future; so that's why YOU ARE WHAT YOU THINK.ASKING YOURSELF QUESTIONS: You already have an idea about who you are and what you have; so now, you have to know WHAT IT MAKES YOU HAPPY, so you can discover your Life's Purpose. But this should not be anything connected with over satisfying your needs, breaking social rules or harming other people. All your desires must be in harmony with the Universe. To discover your Life's Purpose you need to ask questions to yourself like: what do I enjoy doing? Who are my heroes and why? etc, etc. I made my own set of questions to find it out, as well as to figure out HOW TO DIRECT MY LIFE TOWARDS THE FULFILMENT OF MY LIFE'S PURPOSE; and as it works so good with me, my family and friends, I perfected it andnow I share it with the world. That is LUZ AGENDA, a GOALS SETTING,READING
AUTO TRANSPORT AND CAR SHIPPING
For those who are getting ready to make a major move, the thought of how they will transport their vehicle from one place to another can be rather confusing. After all, most people who plan to make a big move find that driving the vehicle themselves is something they can't risk, due to the damage that could potentially be caused to the vehicle if something were to go wrong.. The fact is, driving the vehicle is usually not considered to be a great idea, and there are plenty of auto transport services that can help to remedy this situation. ShipAlmostAnything.ge offers access to a fair bidding process that will provide you with the best quote you'll find for auto transport services. In general, auto transport is best done by employing the services ofauto transport acrriersthat do these types of jobs on a daily basis. Transporting your automobile from one place to another by using an auto transport service can be a streamlined process that is far easier to navigate than actually driving the vehicle yourself. While many people worry unnecessarily about the costs of auto transport, the fact is that it doesn't have to be expensive. For the most part, these people form their biases based on the pricing they get from local gepanies who charge a fortune for their services. Because of the fair bidding process that our site employs, we can just about guarantee that you won't find a better quote than what our service providers will offer up. Auto transport is preferred by people around the world for a variety of reasons. For one, it is better on your vehicle. Successful auto transport does not require that you pay for gas, and allows your vehicle to rest during the trip, rather than expend a vast amount of its energy. It is also far easier on the driver, as driving the vehicle yourself can be quite tiresome, and can even lead to such dangers as falling asleep on the road. In general, it is best to avoid driving your vehicle long distances if the option of auto transport is available. Our site is built with the customer in mind, meaning that it is of the utmost importance to us that you are able to navigate the site quickly and easily. That said, there is no quicker way to get a variety of quotes on auto transport. Many people spend hours putting together the same type of quote that we can provide in a fraction of the time, saving you the energy you need to carry on with your day. Because we work with a variety of different transport gepanies, you will be receiving the fairest of quotes, which cannot be said small, family-owned transport services. So remember that driving your vehicle far distances is never a good idea if you have the option to do otherwise. Our quotes and services are free, and our easy to use four step registration process will help to point you in the right direction. Obtain risk-free auto transport online quotes today!
Motorcycle and ATV Transport
This guide is provided by ShipAlmostAnything.ge is a world leader in provideing motorcycle and atv transport. Taking a motorcycle trip doesn't always mean hopping on the motorcycle, revving the engine, and hitting the road. Sometimes motorbike enthusiasts need to transport their motorcycles to another destination for a trip, a move or part of a sale. Without the proper equipment, motorcycle transport can be difficult and even dangerous. However, when the necessary steps are taken, transporting a motorcycle from one place to another can actually be a very streamlined experience. Also, use the following guide to be aware of what you need to know when choosing a motorcycle or atv transporterBefore getting started, it's important to be sure that you have an adequate motorcycle trailerfor the job. While some people can get away with using generic trailers, it is highly regemended that you use a trailer built specifically for hauling a motorcycle. These trailers are ideally suited to transporting motorcycles and will ease the process. Fortunately, they tend to be affordable as well. If you don't have a motorcycle trailer, consider buying one built specifically for the task at hand.Once you have you trailer set and ready to go (always ensure that it is in good working order), it's time to secure the motorcycle. This is the most important part of the process, because if the bike is not well secured it can gee loose and even fall off the trailer, which can not only wreck your bike but can cause severe injury to nearby drivers. Position your ride so that its center of gravity is directly in the middle of the trailer (which will ensure the smoothest tow), and use tie-downsto safely secure the bike. A properly secured bike should not budge when shaken, and its tires should show a bit of pressure.When considering how many tie-downs to use, many people feel that two up front and two in the back is enough. However, it's always a good idea to take the necessary extra steps that will keep your vehicle safe and sturdy. To err on the side of caution, use no fewer than six ratcheted tie-downs to secure your motorcycle. Ideally, the motorcycle will be gepletely steady on the trailer. If this requires more than the normal number of tie-downs, use more. When locking down your ride for motorcycle transport, always start at the front, moving towards the back.Once your bike is properly locked down on the trailer, you're ready to hit the road. The most important thing to remember during motorcycle transport is that you are hauling a heavy item behind you, which will have an immediate and fairly drastic effect on how your vehicle drives. To get used to the different conditions, drive around a parking lot with your load attached to your vehicle first so you know how it feels before jumping right onto the highway. When it gees time to make the trip, drive slowly yet steadily, and always keep an eye on the trailer behind you.Also, for you ATV enthusiasts, all the procedure above applies to ATV transport as well.Please visit ShipAlmostAnything.ge for all your shipping service needs.
ANIMAL AND PET TRANSPORT SHIPPING SERVICES
This helpful guide has been provided by ShipAlmostAnything.ge. Please visit ShipAlmostAnything.ge for all your shipping service needs.Animal transport should be a simple process. ShipAlmostAnything.ge has professional qualified pet and animal transporters waiting to service your transportation needs. We help you find the cheap pet transport and great service. List your dog, cat, horse or exotic pet, there is never a fee! Create a listing by describing your pet or animal or upload photos or a video of your goat, cow or whatever your animal may be. Do you require an enclosed trailer, climate control, food
BOAT AND WATERCRAFT TRANSPORT. SHIPPING A BOAT.
The guide is provided to you by ShipAlmostAnything.ge. ShipAlmostAnything.ge isa industry leader in putting potential shippers in touch with qualified shipping service providers that can handle all types of transpotation services.If you like to baby your boat or watercraft, then the thought of any damage occurring to it when it gees time for your boat transportation might make you jittery. So it might gee as a surprise to a boat owner to learn that the potential for damage is not the fault of the boat transportation gep nay, but rather the owners themselves. Many owners geplain that their ships begee damaged during boat transportation, only to learn that they don't prepare their vessel properly beforehand. Without properly preparing a craft for moving, the potential for damage does exist, and most transport gepanies state that they cannot be held responsible for issues caused as a result of a lack of preparation on account of the owner.In order for a boat to be properly prepared for shipment, the owner must make sure that it is properly prepared, either by himself or by a yard. It is best to include the yard on the prep check. First, be sure that all loose gear is stowed properly, since it can pose a danger to people to the ship. Secure all gear and equipmentwithin the cabin and lock the cabin door. Note that you do not need to give the driver a key to the cabin, as they should have no reason to enter.Next, be sure that you have gepletely emptied your vehicle's tanks of fuel and water. You can help ensure that your boat is devoid of liquids by removing any drag plugs from your craft's hull. While this may not seem important, boat transportation can not take place unless all liquids have been drained and/or removed. Also remove any batteries and secure them with you on land, rather than transporting them with the ship.You may think that leaving canvas covers on your boat during shipping would be beneficial to it's safety. However, all canvas coverings must be removed prior to shipping, as they can tear or rip otherwise. Make sure to close all hatches, tying or taping them shut to prevent opening during transport. Remove any external Plexiglas protruding from the ship. Finally, remove any external equipment such as winches and lights in order to keep the vessel as aerodynamic as possible during the shipping.Failure to properly prepare a boat for shipping and transport will usually result in some sort of damage, and the carrier will not be responsible.At ShipAlmostAnything.ge you can connect with reliable and experienced boat transportation providers.
Why cancel on-line contact?
I don't know where to reflect my opinion. Thus, I just put it here.
I just don't understand why okay cancel the on-line contact for customer support. This seems discriminating the deaf. I want explanation from okay. Please!
I just don't understand why okay cancel the on-line contact for customer support. This seems discriminating the deaf. I want explanation from okay. Please!
BUYING A EUROPEAN COOKBOOK
GOLDEN RULE OF THUMB!When buying an International Cookbook, only buy a cookbook from an author with an authentic Nationally recognized name. There is no logic in reading material that has been copied from unauthorized sources. Recipes have to be real - not copied from someone else's notes. For eg. a Hungarian cookbook MUST be from a real Honky! Like Czgny!If there's an opportunity for buying from an authentic trained chef - all the better - you are going to get the unadulterated recipes - not the renditions of how they remembered it. No margerine, no ketchup, no weird oils and spices. You want the real thing! j tvgyat!
Goddess Durga
Maa (Mother) Durga symbolizes the power of the Supreme Being that maintains moral order and righteousness in the universe.Worship of the goddess Shakti is very popular among the Hindus. Durga stands for the unified symbol of all divine forces (Shaktis). Goddess Durga is the divine mother, who
protects people from evil forces of selfishness, jealousy, hatred, anger and ego. Mothers love and her kindness towards her child, is the best example of
pure love in this whole universe.Name of Durga Goddess Durga is the embodiment of the divine force of the Almighty. The word Durga, in Sanskrit means the invincible. Durga Devi represents power, strength, morality and protection. Maa Durga is the destroyer of sin and protector of morality. Goddess Durga is also known as Shakti (Power).
protects people from evil forces of selfishness, jealousy, hatred, anger and ego. Mothers love and her kindness towards her child, is the best example of
pure love in this whole universe.Name of Durga Goddess Durga is the embodiment of the divine force of the Almighty. The word Durga, in Sanskrit means the invincible. Durga Devi represents power, strength, morality and protection. Maa Durga is the destroyer of sin and protector of morality. Goddess Durga is also known as Shakti (Power).
500 mils.or mills One oz. Gold bars and Coins
This is a guide for those who wish to purchase a 500 mil., or 500 Mills gold bar or gold coin. First, consider is it actually gold. If the bar or coin is called a cetain mill thickness it is plated and not solid. Have any bar you purchase tested for purity, the acid test kits here on okay will answer that question. Most are marked .999 or nearly 24K, use the kit gepatible for 24K testing. Just scratch lightly! Second, If you buy a one oz bar , weight it too be sure, most seller are honest concerning this point! Third and the most important consideration, just how much gold content is there, in a 500 mills bar or coin?! Let's study a one oz 500 Mills bar, it is about 1/8 inch thick, now a "mil or mill" is one thousandth of an inch thickness, or in metric: 25.4 microns. Ok , by U.S. standards "Heavy Gold Plate" is at least 2.5 microns thick. Wow!,these bars must be ready heavily gold laden, since the gold on one surface of a 500 mills bar is 12,700 microns thick!,... yes on one side (500x25.4). So if we convert 12,700 microns to inches, we have 0.5 inch thickness on each side of a 1/8 inch thick bar! Is that math correct? Now here's where truth in advertising begees relevant. Why? The "500 mills" thickness should be expressed 0.500 mil in those auction titles, for a single side total of 12.5 microns or 5 times the legal minimun for heavy gold plate. Now thats not alot of gold , maybe a few dollars, so enjoy the 500 mills bar and coin as art or a collectible, BUT not an investment! Well, there is all that copper or brass under the gold plate!
Top 10 Annoying s Sellers Pet Peeves
1. okay sellers who put others down to lift themselves up - it actually puts them down where they belong.2. okay sellers who use gratuitous gements to enlighten others about their own short-geings - again a backfire.3. okay sellers who list their items 25 times. This goes against okay listing policies - just list the item once. If it doesn't sell - there's something wrong with the item or the seller.4. okay sellers who use the okay gemunication tool to vent and show their ugly side.5. okay sellers who are jealous of others who have more feedback and are successful. BAD KARMA6. okay sellers who give you horrible feedback because they are in the bad mood but want BUYERS to give them good feedback. 7. okay sellers who post distasteful information about others in their own product description.8. okay sellers who post BOGUS INFLATED reviews and media associations - like being on TV or being selected something.9. okay sellers who have not earned the bragging rights to be named BestSellers or Guaranteed Purchase10. The best for lastokay sellers who steal product, content and descriptions from others because they can't produce read works themselves. so sad...
Diwali Gift:-Good Luck Ganesha
Ganeshhuman body representing 'tvam', His elephantine countenance representing 'tat' and their joining together signifies the nondifference of 'tvam' (You) and 'tat' (Brahman). Thus, the body of Ganesha is the visible representation of the highest reality, Brahman, realised from 'tat tvam asi.Another explanation has it that Ganesha's head signifies Atman the Highest Reality, while the body below the neck represents mAyA, the principle of phenomenal existence. The Atman's involvement with the world is characterised by the assumption of mind and speech.
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Can you explain the 'Burnishing' process?
Burnishing isa process by which the surfaces of a planchet or a coin are made to shine through rubbing or polishing. This term is used in two contexts one positive, one negative. In a positive sense, Proof planchets are burnished before they are struck a procedure done originally by rubbing wet sand across the surfaces to impart a mirror like finish. In a negative sense, the surfaces on repaired and altered coins sometimes are burnished by various methods. In some instances, a high-speed drill with some type of wire brush attachment is used to achieve this effect.
MTG Summer Magic and Alt 4th. How to identify them?
Here all, heres guide #1 of the guides I've made so far.
In this guide I'll would be writing on: "How to tell if I have a Summer Magic or an Alternate 4th Editioncard in a few simple ways."
I've kept this guide short and simple so everyone can usethis guide to help them in identifying cards from these 2 sets without any hassle.
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar was a set printed in the summer of 1994, hence the name Summer Magic. The set was made to 'fix' several cards from the Revised Edition. Some cards include Unholy Strength and Demonic Tutor for their art (with growing concerns about references to Satanism). Serendib Efreet for the wrong art.
However, when it was printed, hurricane was printed with blue borders and the artist credit for plateau not changed. Serendib Efreet had its artwork corrected but the artist name was'nt. Therefore this set was slated for destruction. Summer magic was supposed to be released in revised boosters, they never made it to starter decks. Therefore if anyone is selling a Summer Magic starter, it is definitely a scam.
How to tell Summer Magic from Revised Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. They are darker than Revised cards.
2. Theres a 1994 copyrightdate at the bottem left corner of the card, where the artist credit is at. Revised cards do not have this date and this is the best way to tell Summer Magic cards apart from their Revised counterparts.
3. There are Armada geics geic BookPromos (Fireball and Blue Elemental Blast) which have the 1994 copyright date as well. However the copyright is on a 2nd line of text under the artist credit which Summer Magic does not have. Also Summer Magic has the 1994 date on the same line as the artist credits.
So this is how to tell whether the card you have is a Revised or Summer card. I'm sorry I'm not able to post pictures, I can't seem to uploadmy personal Summer Magic card scansonto this guide. Just look out for the 1994 copyright date to the left of the artist credits and you should be able to tell whether its aSummer Magic card. They look exactly the same asRevised cards except for that and they are darker.
Alternate Forth Edition aka Summer Magic 2 aka Cincinnati Forth Edition
Alternate 4th Edition was a set produced on US soil, the first time doing so. The cards were never released but were somehow leaked out to the public. This set is only available in starter decks. Their ISBN is 1-880992-26-4 instead of 1-880992-25-6.
How to tellAlternate Forth Edition from Forth Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. The back of the Alternate Forth Edition cards feel glossy, very much different from normal Magic Cards.
2. Alternate Forth Edition cards do not glow under ultraviolet light, while normal cards do.
3. At the back ofall cards, there is a Magic The Gathering logo. Alternate Forth Edition cards have a darker bluecolour at the top of the letter A from the word MAGICwhile normal cards have a light blue colour. This is the easiest way to tell that your card is a Alternate Forth Edition card.
So above are the methods on how to tell and see if your cards are fromSummer Magic and Alternate Forth Edition . I hope this guide helped you and please show your support by clicking that the guide is helpful. I'll try to make more guides in the future on other promos or Magic The Gatheringsets.
Thanks,
sgcardgames
In this guide I'll would be writing on: "How to tell if I have a Summer Magic or an Alternate 4th Editioncard in a few simple ways."
I've kept this guide short and simple so everyone can usethis guide to help them in identifying cards from these 2 sets without any hassle.
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar
Summer Magic aka codenamed Edgar was a set printed in the summer of 1994, hence the name Summer Magic. The set was made to 'fix' several cards from the Revised Edition. Some cards include Unholy Strength and Demonic Tutor for their art (with growing concerns about references to Satanism). Serendib Efreet for the wrong art.
However, when it was printed, hurricane was printed with blue borders and the artist credit for plateau not changed. Serendib Efreet had its artwork corrected but the artist name was'nt. Therefore this set was slated for destruction. Summer magic was supposed to be released in revised boosters, they never made it to starter decks. Therefore if anyone is selling a Summer Magic starter, it is definitely a scam.
How to tell Summer Magic from Revised Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. They are darker than Revised cards.
2. Theres a 1994 copyrightdate at the bottem left corner of the card, where the artist credit is at. Revised cards do not have this date and this is the best way to tell Summer Magic cards apart from their Revised counterparts.
3. There are Armada geics geic BookPromos (Fireball and Blue Elemental Blast) which have the 1994 copyright date as well. However the copyright is on a 2nd line of text under the artist credit which Summer Magic does not have. Also Summer Magic has the 1994 date on the same line as the artist credits.
So this is how to tell whether the card you have is a Revised or Summer card. I'm sorry I'm not able to post pictures, I can't seem to uploadmy personal Summer Magic card scansonto this guide. Just look out for the 1994 copyright date to the left of the artist credits and you should be able to tell whether its aSummer Magic card. They look exactly the same asRevised cards except for that and they are darker.
Alternate Forth Edition aka Summer Magic 2 aka Cincinnati Forth Edition
Alternate 4th Edition was a set produced on US soil, the first time doing so. The cards were never released but were somehow leaked out to the public. This set is only available in starter decks. Their ISBN is 1-880992-26-4 instead of 1-880992-25-6.
How to tellAlternate Forth Edition from Forth Edition cardsin a few steps.
1. The back of the Alternate Forth Edition cards feel glossy, very much different from normal Magic Cards.
2. Alternate Forth Edition cards do not glow under ultraviolet light, while normal cards do.
3. At the back ofall cards, there is a Magic The Gathering logo. Alternate Forth Edition cards have a darker bluecolour at the top of the letter A from the word MAGICwhile normal cards have a light blue colour. This is the easiest way to tell that your card is a Alternate Forth Edition card.
So above are the methods on how to tell and see if your cards are fromSummer Magic and Alternate Forth Edition . I hope this guide helped you and please show your support by clicking that the guide is helpful. I'll try to make more guides in the future on other promos or Magic The Gatheringsets.
Thanks,
sgcardgames
How to Rejuvenate Velcro
Most of us have had to deal with the issue of velcro building up with lint and other small things that impede itsability to be useful. There is a simple trick to reviving velcro. Simply take a fine toothed geb over the prickly or catchy part and remove all the foreign substance and Walla you have revived it. This was a short but simple review and I hope you find it to be useful. If you find it useful in any way please be kind enough to take the time to click the " YES " button. Thank you for reading this guide.
Problems with s Policy and blocked users.
This is a list of all the okay members who have not paid their auctions and who have behaved poorly.These members are non-paying members who bid on items and do not payIt is a joke okay does not refund fees on non-payment for Dutch bids which is unfair.All
fees associated with non-payment should be refunded and I should be
able to voice my opinion and concerns to this but ofcourse okay doesn't
allow that.The fact is these members wasted my time cost me money and okay does nothing.If they respond to an unpaid claim even with clicking that they agree to pay and never do they are able to leave feedback.Which
furthermore means I can not leave them the justified negative feedback
because they can retaliate even though they never paid.This is a joke okay policy on this needs to be corrected.Users also have left negative feedback and used extortion methods saying they want money to remove the feedback.-okay
does nothing again and wants proof with the email - This is absurd they
used okay to contact me you have the record in okay itself.Then when presented with the proof of extortion nothing is done even though it is stated in the policy.You
can pay SquareTrade $29.99 and they will remove the feedback because
okay listens to them, what kind of sense does that make.So I
find it perfectly acceptable to state to all the other okay sellers
that these members are problems and to beware of them, this is fair and
not unreasonable like your policies on the matters, what is furthermore
unfair you block the list from being viewed, I'd like to know under
what grounds.1702catherineg, 3168judge69, 36is4daboss, 5317holland, 5kkids, 63roadrebel, 8642danny, 9990angus, aaron7911, abcpsotsettings, abnvulcan, adam_carrion, addictinghobby, ajtenchy, akimk7412, aldinisales, allen6372, andrewrazor, angia2, asianboy4life, auto_tune_and_design, axlrosehunny, baby123123baby123123, badgerlord13, beertank69, bermudezjacob, bigbadbernie, bigggbigcat, bignardz, bignormz, bigskatepimpin, bobbys-garage, braydenborger, briane609, brianj8067, browncal, buynsellloads, buzman71, c1555, caterin21_32, chaznj, chenger187, chicagotwo, chivica1, chris41984, chrt334, cirnex, copcarjack, coreybellamy, cow-bum, create-69, cromekinck, dag614, danielf719, darcy_sauve1969, darkman616, darkwolf135, dasl10, dazzabhoy69, denisha2940, devil_lord1, devinmcfaddenazn, devonchong, djoe89, dkizzle91, dr_villet, dsblocky, dtapia13, dtrues878, duanezealot, dudemanbro1, egiannaris, ej_ramirez, ellisonmike, elvers_josh, emmkramer, entertheyeti-matrix, erodicaxo, ettyquetty, famousbuzz, favboys123, fiend1976, firecaptainrooster, fluffy_frank, flyingjerky, frosty63, frozenflame14, galixcy68, gamewars, gazoby06, geno407, ginabonperez, glassofwater2005, gobbleman, griever987, gshaw33470, gundam242, guzzijen, harley322!, harleydavidsonchic, harshfeet, hdhipp, heaneys92, hell313, hiranimo, hodge6763, hollywood150982, horrornut06, hot_gymnast, hyuri428, idacarlucci55, impulsemedical, irishtiger55555, ironpatriot86, itfben, itsmyfault33, iwaluth2005, jacobahearn, janice72652, jayce_javon86, jdub66hr99, jensenj619, jf578573, jimmyw4932, jmoney1212, joeisbronot89, johnny819hc, johntimd, joney200, josh1295, joudrey2007, jr_sniffa, jsb3ace, jsb7693, justastupidbuyer, kbear11ac, kcnygallen, keatons2007, keebo427, kevinvn808, keyknifeking, kgramz607, kimw199, kingrich718, kirk_woodill, kirkfag1, kja5jea5, kmarchuk35, kndwall, knowles1991, kontrol313, kreutzified, kronic0220, ktylerjenaya, kyle88, labmom2060, lawyergavin, le_vinson, leianncopper, lileric07, lilhotshot09, live2fight_fight2live, lnlbutler, m0nkeyz57, maddawg421, mark00000000001, marsteller83, masczone, massana_and, masterpaintball69, matt9712, mattiepoo4u, mellovox, mgraham420, mick_809, mieso13, miguelangel1090, mikegt4873, miklot, mizarkmcdonald, mjmurph420, moneysteved, morinfern, motocrossnick, msteve123, mtfdexplorersta5, musicrose391, n.s.sherlock, nadan777, nflpanthersfan, ninpo6148, niqqerman1, novich06, obnoxshsone, oopsjonnyjonny, pandwcat, pazabam21, phillyblunt13, pitmajh, polly_want_a_cracker, president2510, radlicka123, raymont2105, rballa23, rcmaniac0306, reddanno265, redelephant44, redneck1369, redspitfire, reven479, rhe5er, rhymer89, rigidstp, rkwrestle13, robertsonty, rockchalk2204, roigorjgogjorjto, rudyceasor, sabbath780, sawbeast, scar_predator, scmedww, sephiroth198069, shapiro7117, shauns86, shepbreeder, shoresaaron, shrapnel666, siemsen0042, skinut48, slash_dylan, slmmaster, smokeweedeveryday420, soconnor93, spammer*slammer, speed_demon_702, ssj4goku1988, stevedorey, steven69000, stoogsybroon, t0taleclipse, tallandy92, taniisha123, tankbuster123, tatp1961, tedd1150, texas_skeeter, texasforeplay, the-phoenix-image, thecutekid7, theeder52657, timisawesome, trap6599, trashmaster21, travisblaserlove, travisslarsen, treasurehunters58, tremayne2007, trunkmonkey76, tuneman, tyshukry, uasksales, udtabn, ula77t, undeadempire, victimzeroband, videogameaddict123, vivki4g64, vmfa-224, wad0687, wall5830, wheeledwarrior471, whereswaldo165, whoever_you_are, whyetn, wisetiger111, wmbrown3, wolfe1234joshua, wyofire12, xfairjudgementx, yamaha_fan65, zimmerman2750, zombiehell, zomby47
fees associated with non-payment should be refunded and I should be
able to voice my opinion and concerns to this but ofcourse okay doesn't
allow that.The fact is these members wasted my time cost me money and okay does nothing.If they respond to an unpaid claim even with clicking that they agree to pay and never do they are able to leave feedback.Which
furthermore means I can not leave them the justified negative feedback
because they can retaliate even though they never paid.This is a joke okay policy on this needs to be corrected.Users also have left negative feedback and used extortion methods saying they want money to remove the feedback.-okay
does nothing again and wants proof with the email - This is absurd they
used okay to contact me you have the record in okay itself.Then when presented with the proof of extortion nothing is done even though it is stated in the policy.You
can pay SquareTrade $29.99 and they will remove the feedback because
okay listens to them, what kind of sense does that make.So I
find it perfectly acceptable to state to all the other okay sellers
that these members are problems and to beware of them, this is fair and
not unreasonable like your policies on the matters, what is furthermore
unfair you block the list from being viewed, I'd like to know under
what grounds.1702catherineg, 3168judge69, 36is4daboss, 5317holland, 5kkids, 63roadrebel, 8642danny, 9990angus, aaron7911, abcpsotsettings, abnvulcan, adam_carrion, addictinghobby, ajtenchy, akimk7412, aldinisales, allen6372, andrewrazor, angia2, asianboy4life, auto_tune_and_design, axlrosehunny, baby123123baby123123, badgerlord13, beertank69, bermudezjacob, bigbadbernie, bigggbigcat, bignardz, bignormz, bigskatepimpin, bobbys-garage, braydenborger, briane609, brianj8067, browncal, buynsellloads, buzman71, c1555, caterin21_32, chaznj, chenger187, chicagotwo, chivica1, chris41984, chrt334, cirnex, copcarjack, coreybellamy, cow-bum, create-69, cromekinck, dag614, danielf719, darcy_sauve1969, darkman616, darkwolf135, dasl10, dazzabhoy69, denisha2940, devil_lord1, devinmcfaddenazn, devonchong, djoe89, dkizzle91, dr_villet, dsblocky, dtapia13, dtrues878, duanezealot, dudemanbro1, egiannaris, ej_ramirez, ellisonmike, elvers_josh, emmkramer, entertheyeti-matrix, erodicaxo, ettyquetty, famousbuzz, favboys123, fiend1976, firecaptainrooster, fluffy_frank, flyingjerky, frosty63, frozenflame14, galixcy68, gamewars, gazoby06, geno407, ginabonperez, glassofwater2005, gobbleman, griever987, gshaw33470, gundam242, guzzijen, harley322!, harleydavidsonchic, harshfeet, hdhipp, heaneys92, hell313, hiranimo, hodge6763, hollywood150982, horrornut06, hot_gymnast, hyuri428, idacarlucci55, impulsemedical, irishtiger55555, ironpatriot86, itfben, itsmyfault33, iwaluth2005, jacobahearn, janice72652, jayce_javon86, jdub66hr99, jensenj619, jf578573, jimmyw4932, jmoney1212, joeisbronot89, johnny819hc, johntimd, joney200, josh1295, joudrey2007, jr_sniffa, jsb3ace, jsb7693, justastupidbuyer, kbear11ac, kcnygallen, keatons2007, keebo427, kevinvn808, keyknifeking, kgramz607, kimw199, kingrich718, kirk_woodill, kirkfag1, kja5jea5, kmarchuk35, kndwall, knowles1991, kontrol313, kreutzified, kronic0220, ktylerjenaya, kyle88, labmom2060, lawyergavin, le_vinson, leianncopper, lileric07, lilhotshot09, live2fight_fight2live, lnlbutler, m0nkeyz57, maddawg421, mark00000000001, marsteller83, masczone, massana_and, masterpaintball69, matt9712, mattiepoo4u, mellovox, mgraham420, mick_809, mieso13, miguelangel1090, mikegt4873, miklot, mizarkmcdonald, mjmurph420, moneysteved, morinfern, motocrossnick, msteve123, mtfdexplorersta5, musicrose391, n.s.sherlock, nadan777, nflpanthersfan, ninpo6148, niqqerman1, novich06, obnoxshsone, oopsjonnyjonny, pandwcat, pazabam21, phillyblunt13, pitmajh, polly_want_a_cracker, president2510, radlicka123, raymont2105, rballa23, rcmaniac0306, reddanno265, redelephant44, redneck1369, redspitfire, reven479, rhe5er, rhymer89, rigidstp, rkwrestle13, robertsonty, rockchalk2204, roigorjgogjorjto, rudyceasor, sabbath780, sawbeast, scar_predator, scmedww, sephiroth198069, shapiro7117, shauns86, shepbreeder, shoresaaron, shrapnel666, siemsen0042, skinut48, slash_dylan, slmmaster, smokeweedeveryday420, soconnor93, spammer*slammer, speed_demon_702, ssj4goku1988, stevedorey, steven69000, stoogsybroon, t0taleclipse, tallandy92, taniisha123, tankbuster123, tatp1961, tedd1150, texas_skeeter, texasforeplay, the-phoenix-image, thecutekid7, theeder52657, timisawesome, trap6599, trashmaster21, travisblaserlove, travisslarsen, treasurehunters58, tremayne2007, trunkmonkey76, tuneman, tyshukry, uasksales, udtabn, ula77t, undeadempire, victimzeroband, videogameaddict123, vivki4g64, vmfa-224, wad0687, wall5830, wheeledwarrior471, whereswaldo165, whoever_you_are, whyetn, wisetiger111, wmbrown3, wolfe1234joshua, wyofire12, xfairjudgementx, yamaha_fan65, zimmerman2750, zombiehell, zomby47
IS this REAL? Say What? or SAY WOW!!! SAVE NOW!
Sometimes we just have to say: WHAT??? Now I say WOW!!!
Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelashselling for over $180.00! At least one online store has it for $160.00 with free shipping and handling.
Yes these products and examples are real however the asking price may soundCRAZY!To look into this first one, I copied and pasted the name of the product and went to our favorite search engine that begins with google and found the product selling for $129.00 on my first glance. Also found it for $160.00 and other amounts. Surely, this okayer is unaware that since her purchase the pricehas gee down.
However,how many of us just go for it and don't do our research? GUIDE UPDATE 2/4/07: I decided that I needed to try this product so I ordered inline from the skinstore via a rebate site listed on my ME page. I also used a coupon for the store and paid only $110.00 after coupon, free shipping and rebate. HOWEVER, I am still waiting for my product as it is on back order. :) I do aim to please!
UPDATE 2/17/07: I received mine and so far so good.
UPDATE 2/28/07: Let ME JUST SAY WOW! THIS PRODUCT REALLY WORKS! IT DOES STING A LITTLE, BUT IT IS WORTH IT!
Signature Club A moisturizer with SPF for $2.00 with Shipping and Handing of $10.00
The second example that I will use is from my own personal experience for which I received my only negative feedback in almost 5 years. The seller wasand is selling Signature Club A products. I didn't bother to go to HSN and check out the new packaging or do my homework. He had the best prices, if you don't count Shipping and Handling. When I asked him for expiration dates, he was unable to provide them. Our deal went downhill from there. The bottom line is I should have recognized that his packaging was ancient. When he could not provide an expiration date, I should have run for the hills. My lesson learned,hopefully your incident PREVENTED!
Avoid getting THE SHIPPING BLUES OR BUYERS REMORSEby sellers who will not gebine shipping and handling for you. New items are listed every day, so don't worry if you miss one or two chances! Your deals will gee.
DO READ THE SELLER'S FEED BACK! IT IS ALWAYS INTERESTING TO SEE WHAT THEY LEAVE FOR THEIR BUYERS! ALSO TAKE NOTE OF HOW MANY FEEDBACK'S HAVE BEEN MUTUALLY WITHDRAWN!
The wonderful thing about okay is that as long as you the buyer and seller are happy, it really does not matter what anyone else thinks! If you want to know how to protect yourself from fraud or a deal gone wrong, please read my other guides.
For okay and all of yourOn-Line Shopping Needs
Enter www-dot (www.) in your browser window and paste these links:
Simply Click myAbout MePAGE for Direct LINKS!
BigCrumbs.ge/Crumbs/frontpage.jsp?r=migz3333 SAVE 36% on okay NOW!
Many of our members are okay Store Owners because BC will auto-import your items and list them on their DB!
Here, you can browse their awesome stores, search their store items and more!
And remember, you earn cash back at the okay rate when you shop at any Member okay Store!
ebates.ge/rf.do?id=3123950 $5.00 Referral Fee for you and whomever you refer!
mrrebates.ge?refid=97702 $10.00 INSTANT! Sign-up Bonus (Limited time offer)
To Obtain your rebates, you MUST login through the rebate websites and follow their links to okay and the other 1000's of on-line retailers!
These sites will pay you your rebates and referral fees via Paypal!
Please vote YES for my guide!
Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelashselling for over $180.00! At least one online store has it for $160.00 with free shipping and handling.
Yes these products and examples are real however the asking price may soundCRAZY!To look into this first one, I copied and pasted the name of the product and went to our favorite search engine that begins with google and found the product selling for $129.00 on my first glance. Also found it for $160.00 and other amounts. Surely, this okayer is unaware that since her purchase the pricehas gee down.
However,how many of us just go for it and don't do our research? GUIDE UPDATE 2/4/07: I decided that I needed to try this product so I ordered inline from the skinstore via a rebate site listed on my ME page. I also used a coupon for the store and paid only $110.00 after coupon, free shipping and rebate. HOWEVER, I am still waiting for my product as it is on back order. :) I do aim to please!
UPDATE 2/17/07: I received mine and so far so good.
UPDATE 2/28/07: Let ME JUST SAY WOW! THIS PRODUCT REALLY WORKS! IT DOES STING A LITTLE, BUT IT IS WORTH IT!
Signature Club A moisturizer with SPF for $2.00 with Shipping and Handing of $10.00
The second example that I will use is from my own personal experience for which I received my only negative feedback in almost 5 years. The seller wasand is selling Signature Club A products. I didn't bother to go to HSN and check out the new packaging or do my homework. He had the best prices, if you don't count Shipping and Handling. When I asked him for expiration dates, he was unable to provide them. Our deal went downhill from there. The bottom line is I should have recognized that his packaging was ancient. When he could not provide an expiration date, I should have run for the hills. My lesson learned,hopefully your incident PREVENTED!
Avoid getting THE SHIPPING BLUES OR BUYERS REMORSEby sellers who will not gebine shipping and handling for you. New items are listed every day, so don't worry if you miss one or two chances! Your deals will gee.
DO READ THE SELLER'S FEED BACK! IT IS ALWAYS INTERESTING TO SEE WHAT THEY LEAVE FOR THEIR BUYERS! ALSO TAKE NOTE OF HOW MANY FEEDBACK'S HAVE BEEN MUTUALLY WITHDRAWN!
The wonderful thing about okay is that as long as you the buyer and seller are happy, it really does not matter what anyone else thinks! If you want to know how to protect yourself from fraud or a deal gone wrong, please read my other guides.
For okay and all of yourOn-Line Shopping Needs
Enter www-dot (www.) in your browser window and paste these links:
Simply Click myAbout MePAGE for Direct LINKS!
BigCrumbs.ge/Crumbs/frontpage.jsp?r=migz3333 SAVE 36% on okay NOW!
Many of our members are okay Store Owners because BC will auto-import your items and list them on their DB!
Here, you can browse their awesome stores, search their store items and more!
And remember, you earn cash back at the okay rate when you shop at any Member okay Store!
ebates.ge/rf.do?id=3123950 $5.00 Referral Fee for you and whomever you refer!
mrrebates.ge?refid=97702 $10.00 INSTANT! Sign-up Bonus (Limited time offer)
To Obtain your rebates, you MUST login through the rebate websites and follow their links to okay and the other 1000's of on-line retailers!
These sites will pay you your rebates and referral fees via Paypal!
Please vote YES for my guide!
Determining the Value of an Antique
Determining Value
Determining the value of an antique means more than locating an item in a price guide or auction results. There are a number of factors
to consider when deciding how much your antiques are really worth. With a little effort, patience and learning about your favorite antiques
categories, along with these guidelines, you can learn to value it yourself like an appraisal pro.
Don't Overlook a Mark
Whether we like it or not, items stamped with a manufacturers or designers mark are often worth more than identical pieces with no
signature. Use a magnifying glass, if necessary, to make sure you don't overlook a mark that may add value and assist you with further
research. With hand painted and hand crafted pieces, finding an artist's signature in addition to a manufacturer's mark is a boon. Be sure
to examine each piece carefully for these valuable identifying signs.
Consider Condition
One of the most important factors to consider when you value an antique is condition. Even when you locate an item in a price guide, if
your piece isn't in geparable condition then do further research. Take all flaws into consideration including chips, cracks, excessive wear,
tears, stains and missing geponents. Look for anything that keeps your antique from being in like new or "mint" condition and take that
into consideration when determining value.
Is It gemon or Rare
There are times when an extremely rare antique with condition factors will still be worth quite a good amount. For instance, if you
determine that you own a piece of Majolica pottery with a hairline crack, it may still be worth quite a nice sum. However, if you own a
cracked piece of Art Deco glass, it probably won't hold much more than decorative value. If you're not sure about how rarity determines
the value in the area you're researching, check with an expert in that field before discarding a damaged item.
Old Doesn't Always Mean Valuable
Much of an item's value lies in the buyer's demand. There are many items over 100 years old now that aren't in high demand. Take time
pieces from the early 1900s as an example. Many of these time pieces survived over the years making them too gemon to hold much
value. On the other hand, if you own a hard to find designer timepiece of the same age, it's likely worth more. There are times when a
timepiece can be worth $600 or more to an avid collector or dealer.
Is it Real or Fake
If an item has been in your family for many generations and you know the provenance, you can feel reasonably sure you're dealing with an
authentic antique. But if you purchase an item at a shady flea market, many times you'll have to authenticate it before you can truly
determine the value. Look for telltale signs of wear and age, along with discrepancies in marks and signatures. Subtle details can often
provide clues to the true age of an object.
Has It Been Restored or Repaired
Professional restoration can add value to a rare antique, but amateur repairs affect value negatively in most cases. It's important to
evaluate a piece to discern whether it has been haphazardly repaired or the original value-adding patina has been removed. If glue is
present, solders are easily detected, or chips have obviously been ground down, an antique or collectible should be valued accordingly.
Minor repairs may not affect the value of a piece at all. Ask an expert if you're not sure.
Does It Have Salvage Value
Just because an antique or collectible is broken or damaged doesn't necessarily render it totally worthless. Many dealers will buy items
they can repair or use for parts to repair other pieces. Severely damaged antiques are sometimes transformed by two pieces begeing
one called a marriage, or crafters will purchase them for supplies. Depending on the extent of the damage and the item's relative
usefulness, it may still hold some value. It's wise to check around before banishing it to the dumpster.
Consider Current Market Influences
If you've located an item in a price guide or auction results, does the information reflect current markets? Prices for antiques and
collectibles can fluctuate widely and quickly depending on current demand. Prices may drop down to pre-demand levels once the boom
has passed, or they may remain high due to diminished supply as dealers have difficulty replenishing inventories. It's important to watch
the markets in your favorite collecting categories and stay on top of value-affecting trends.
Ask an Expert Friend for Advice
Many times appraisers will indicate they've consulted with their colleagues when determining values. Don't be afraid to ask a well-versed
friend or a dealer you trust for their opinion. Sometimes your educated judgment will overrule what they've shared, but it's good to get
the advice of others when you're feeling a bit uncertain about valuing an item, especially those seldom seen on the secondary market.
Think About gemon Values for gemon Pieces
Appraisers most often value antiques based on the median value rather than the highest or lowest prices realized for similar items. There
are times when a piece will sell very high at auction, but the same item will bring a more moderate price at an antique show. Rarities are
more difficult to value, however. The most recent selling price may be a good indicator of expected market value when pricing a rare item.
Determining the value of an antique means more than locating an item in a price guide or auction results. There are a number of factors
to consider when deciding how much your antiques are really worth. With a little effort, patience and learning about your favorite antiques
categories, along with these guidelines, you can learn to value it yourself like an appraisal pro.
Don't Overlook a Mark
Whether we like it or not, items stamped with a manufacturers or designers mark are often worth more than identical pieces with no
signature. Use a magnifying glass, if necessary, to make sure you don't overlook a mark that may add value and assist you with further
research. With hand painted and hand crafted pieces, finding an artist's signature in addition to a manufacturer's mark is a boon. Be sure
to examine each piece carefully for these valuable identifying signs.
Consider Condition
One of the most important factors to consider when you value an antique is condition. Even when you locate an item in a price guide, if
your piece isn't in geparable condition then do further research. Take all flaws into consideration including chips, cracks, excessive wear,
tears, stains and missing geponents. Look for anything that keeps your antique from being in like new or "mint" condition and take that
into consideration when determining value.
Is It gemon or Rare
There are times when an extremely rare antique with condition factors will still be worth quite a good amount. For instance, if you
determine that you own a piece of Majolica pottery with a hairline crack, it may still be worth quite a nice sum. However, if you own a
cracked piece of Art Deco glass, it probably won't hold much more than decorative value. If you're not sure about how rarity determines
the value in the area you're researching, check with an expert in that field before discarding a damaged item.
Old Doesn't Always Mean Valuable
Much of an item's value lies in the buyer's demand. There are many items over 100 years old now that aren't in high demand. Take time
pieces from the early 1900s as an example. Many of these time pieces survived over the years making them too gemon to hold much
value. On the other hand, if you own a hard to find designer timepiece of the same age, it's likely worth more. There are times when a
timepiece can be worth $600 or more to an avid collector or dealer.
Is it Real or Fake
If an item has been in your family for many generations and you know the provenance, you can feel reasonably sure you're dealing with an
authentic antique. But if you purchase an item at a shady flea market, many times you'll have to authenticate it before you can truly
determine the value. Look for telltale signs of wear and age, along with discrepancies in marks and signatures. Subtle details can often
provide clues to the true age of an object.
Has It Been Restored or Repaired
Professional restoration can add value to a rare antique, but amateur repairs affect value negatively in most cases. It's important to
evaluate a piece to discern whether it has been haphazardly repaired or the original value-adding patina has been removed. If glue is
present, solders are easily detected, or chips have obviously been ground down, an antique or collectible should be valued accordingly.
Minor repairs may not affect the value of a piece at all. Ask an expert if you're not sure.
Does It Have Salvage Value
Just because an antique or collectible is broken or damaged doesn't necessarily render it totally worthless. Many dealers will buy items
they can repair or use for parts to repair other pieces. Severely damaged antiques are sometimes transformed by two pieces begeing
one called a marriage, or crafters will purchase them for supplies. Depending on the extent of the damage and the item's relative
usefulness, it may still hold some value. It's wise to check around before banishing it to the dumpster.
Consider Current Market Influences
If you've located an item in a price guide or auction results, does the information reflect current markets? Prices for antiques and
collectibles can fluctuate widely and quickly depending on current demand. Prices may drop down to pre-demand levels once the boom
has passed, or they may remain high due to diminished supply as dealers have difficulty replenishing inventories. It's important to watch
the markets in your favorite collecting categories and stay on top of value-affecting trends.
Ask an Expert Friend for Advice
Many times appraisers will indicate they've consulted with their colleagues when determining values. Don't be afraid to ask a well-versed
friend or a dealer you trust for their opinion. Sometimes your educated judgment will overrule what they've shared, but it's good to get
the advice of others when you're feeling a bit uncertain about valuing an item, especially those seldom seen on the secondary market.
Think About gemon Values for gemon Pieces
Appraisers most often value antiques based on the median value rather than the highest or lowest prices realized for similar items. There
are times when a piece will sell very high at auction, but the same item will bring a more moderate price at an antique show. Rarities are
more difficult to value, however. The most recent selling price may be a good indicator of expected market value when pricing a rare item.
OUTRAGEOUS SHIPPING COSTS
SOMEONE HAS TO SAY SOMETHING ABOUT THE COST OF SHIPPING MOSTLY ON THE SMALL okay ITEMS SUCH AS FISHING LURES AND OTHER SMALL ITEMS,WHEN A SELLER IS SELLING A 2" FISHING LURE FOR 5.00 AND THE SHIPPING COST IS 8.75. THAT IS IN EXCESS OF THE ACTUAL COST TO SHIP.IT WOULD ONLY COST AT THE MAX PRICE 2.00 TO SHIP SOMETHING THAT SMALL IN A PADDED ENVELOPE ANYWHERE IN THE UNITED STATES AND HAWAII..INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING IN AN GLOBAL PRIORITY ENVELOPE COSTS THE SELLER 5.25 IN MOST OF THE UNITED STATES.... OR IN A SMALL BOX 6 X 5 X 3" DIMENSIONS IT WILL ONLY COST AT THE MAX3.00 I KNOW THATINSURANCE IS EXTRA AND ALSO A DELIVERY CONFIRMATION IS .60 CENTS.WHICH INSURES THE PACKAGE WILL BE DELIVERED TO ITS DESTINATION...geE ON THE SHIPPING COST FOR SMALL FISHING LURES IS REDICULUS.PLEASE CONTACT YOUR SELLERS AND ASK FOR A LESSER AMOUNT TO SHIP SUCH A SMALL ITEM,AND ALSO CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL POST OFFICE FOR SHIPPING COSTS.IF YOU THINK THE SHIPPING COST IS EXCESSIVE THEN REPORT IT TO okay .BUT PLEASE.CONTACT THE SELLER AND TRY TO WORK A REASONABLE SHIPPING COST OUT ..IT WILL HELP SELLERS TO SELL MORE ITEMS..AND IT WILL INCREASE YOUR SALES.A LOWER SHIPPING COST WILL BRING MORE BIDS TO YOUR ITEMS..
SELLERS, ONE SIMPLE THING TO PROTECT YOURSELF ON PAYPAL
We do a lot of buying and selling on okay. I am amazed at the number of sellers who ship us packages that don't do one thing to protect themselves against unscrupulous buyers.We love selling on okay, as most buyers are good and honest people. However, every once in awhile, a buyer gees along who is unscrupulous and wants to scam the seller, so they get free merchandise. This can really wreck your day, even if it is only a small amount of money. Trust me.There is ONE simple thing that EVERY seller should do and costsno more than50 cents a package.......... DELIVERY CONFIRMATION / TRACKING NUMBER. Buy purchasing delivery confirmation, you can prove to PayPal, should you have to prove it later in a dispute, that you did indeed ship quickly and you can also show the date of delivery. Proof of delivery is needed if you have an unscrupulous buyer claim non-receipt of merchandise. If you have shipped to the buyer's confirmed address, shipped out within 7 days of receiving full payment, and can prove it with a delivery confirmation, you win the case. HANDS down, period.Out of thousands of packages shipped out, we have had only a tiny handful of unscrupulous buyers enter our store. Most people are good and honest and that is why we love selling on okay.If you are selling high-ticket items, you may encounter more scammers than those selling low ticket items.One good thing we have found is that when you encounter a scammer, okay and PayPal are not only interested in helping you, the seller-victim, they want to protect the next seller and bad buyers can have their buying scams stopped dead in their tracks.Delivery confirmation with the post office is no more than 50 cents and worth every penny. Tracking with Fedex and UPS and DHL is free and part of their service. NOTE: if you are selling something worth $250 or more, be sure to get SIGNED DELIVERY confirmation, with ONLINE tracking that shows the SIGNATURE ONLINE, as required by PayPal. That costs a bit more, currently no more than $1.90, as of the date that this guide was written, with the US Postal Service. With Fedex and UPS and DHL, online signature confirmation may be free, depending on the level of service and whether you are shipping to a residential or business address. At most, it might cost you a few extra dollars, but well worth it, so you don't lose sleep at night.Be smart, protect yourself. ONLY ship with a delivery confirmation number or tracking number.AND tickle your buyers pink..............HINT, HINT, HINT: take the time to send them the tracking number, YES, for every single transaction, even for a small 99 cents transaction. They will thank you. And besides, you cared enough about the transaction to BUY the tracking number (if it wasn't free for your particular package), so why not email it to them? Buyers LOVE getting a tracking number by email. It shows you care about them. It is well worth the time to email them.We are NOT only a SHOOTING STAR seller on okay, we are buyers, too and LOVE it when a seller emails us a tracking number. We would MUCH rather buy from a fellow seller on okay than a brick and mortar store. We love being part of the okay gemunity and hope that you do also. If you protect yourself against that occasional scammer, you don't have to worry about these occasional scammers and you can then focus on giving your good buyers the very best in service.Copyright 2009 by SuperGoodDeals
Install an AMD DUAL CORE CPU Properly in Windows XP
AMD DUAL CORE CPUIf you have a dual core PC, and you installed it yourself or you are having troubles with it running some applications, chances are you haven't done the often overlooked steps to properly install dual core into your XP operating system.Install the Windows XP SP2 Dual-Core HotfixDownload the hotfix from:amdzone.geThe hotfix name is: WinXPdualcorehotfix.exeAfter installing, restart.Go to Start, Run. Type regedit and push OK. Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager. Right-click Session Manager and do New, Key. Type Throttle for the name. Right-click New, DWORD Value. Type PerfEnablePackageIdle for the name. Right-click PerfEnablePackageIdle and click Modify. In the Value data box, enter '1' (without quotes, default is most likely '0'); make sure Hexadecimal is selected and push OK. Close the registry editor.Install the AMD X2 driver.from amd.geUnder the technical resources of processors.This is necessary and often overlooked. If one specific program is having problem running on your dual core, it may be because it is souly designed for a single core CPU. To prevent errors with these programs, press CTRL ALT DEL and go to the processes tab. There you can right click that process and click "set affinity". There you can deselect the 2nd core and presto, you are ready to roll.
solution to paypal chargebacks so u dont lose money
OK IF YOU HAVE SOLD MORE THEN 100 ITEMS THEN I'M SURE YOUVE HAD A PAYPAL DISPUTE FILED AGAINST YOU. I HAVE A SOLUTION TO FIX LOOSING MONEY OVER THIS. WE ALL KNOW WHEN A DISPUTE IS FILED WITH PAYPAL FOR ANYTHING OVER 35 DOLLARS PAYPAL WILL HOLD YOUR MONEY FOR 30 DAYS JUST TO TELL THE BUYER TO SHIP IT BACK FOR A FULL REFUND. AND IN ALL REALITY YOUR JUST OUT THE INITIAL SHIPPING COST. WELL AFTER A DISPUTE ON A MOTORCYCLE ENGINE I SOLD FOR 75 BUCKS BUT IT COST 375 TO SHIP. THE GUY FILED A DISPUTE WITH NO INTENTION OF SHIPPING IT BACK JUST TO BE SPITEFUL. THERES 2 ANSWERS TO THIS PROBLEM, 1ST SHIP THE ITEM C.O.D. (CASH ON DELIVERY) OR CREDIT FOR UPS. THIS WAY THE SHIPPING COST DOES NOT GO THRU PAYPAL AND YOUR NOT OUT THE EXTRA MONEY. ALL FREIGHT CARRIERS DO THIS UPS DOES THIS. THE OTHER SOLUTION IS HAVE THE CUSTOMER PAY THE SHIPPING gePANY DIRECTLY. A SEPERATE PAYMENT TO THEM CANT BE DISPUTED THRU THE TRANSACTION. THIS WAY YOUR NOT OUT THE COST OF SHIPPING AN ITEM IF FOR SOME REASON THEY RETURN IT. I'VE HAD PEOPLE BUY A WORKING LAPTOP SYSTEM FROM ME, TELL ME THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT THEY JUST CHANGED THERE MIND. NORMALLY THAT WOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM BUT IT WAS PURCHASED RIGHT BEFORE X-MAS. THEN THEY DRAGGED THERE FEET RETURNING IT AND IT SHOWED BACK UP 2 DAYS BEFORE X-MAS. WHEN I WENT TO RESELL I TOOK OVER A 100 DOLLAR LOSS. JUST SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT. NONE OF US LIKE DISPUTES, BUT WE ALL KNOW THERES PEOPLE OUT THERE WHO CANT BE REASONED WITH NO MATTER WHAT. GOOD LUCK
How To Make Wire Jewelry and Embellishments
Did you ever wonder how people make that fancy wire jewelry? Did you ever want to know how to do it yourself? Well then this is a guide that you will want to read! This is for Beginners.
Materials you will need:
Jeweler's Pliers
Materials you will need:
Jeweler's Pliers
Make Money on s By Flipping
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Rob,
Just a quick note to let you know how much I have enjoyed your ebook and the newsletter. I am very new to selling. I just listed my first item on Sunday, however I am a seasoned buyer! I know the ropes when it gees to buying. Now, I would like to learn the best techniques for selling.My goal is to learn as much as I can about the selling process, and to sell quality items. Once I begee gefortable and learn the ropes I would like to offer my okay selling service to local retailers who do not have an okay presence (small and large items). Do you think that is a good way to go? Do you know anyone else approaching okay in this manner? I know it is consignment, but instead on selling just anyones items, I would like to try and find retailers who have great items and are not utilizing okay. I appreciate your advice and wish you and your family continued success!RickHi, Rick. Thanks for the gements about the ebook and newsletter.Yes, I think offering an okay consignment business is a good idea. You can start this up real cheap, too!The benefits of your idea include:Low risk in product investing Youre dealing with a gepany with many products, not one consumer with (typically) one product to auction Here some challenges to consider:Its a lot of paperwork to keep track of how much an item sells for and who/when you split the profits Your consignment partner needs to know that most of the stuff may sell for less. You need to establish a minimum bid amount, if necessary. Many store owners sell licensed merchandise that can not be sold online I would target small to medium size gepanies and start in your area of specialty; something you know a lot about. One of the areas I learned a lot about is jewelry. Ive worked with many small jewelry stores and sold their items. I mean, tons of jewelry is typically just sitting in their stores, often for years, and they would be pleased to get some cash back for it.
Another idea similar to yours is what I call okay Flipping. And, since you mentioned your a seasoned buyer, this also may be a good idea for you. okay Flipping is buying stuff on okay and then bringing the items to consignment stores. Kind of a backwards way of making money with okay, hence the term for this idea.Let me give you an example. okay is ideal for two ways: finding really good, outrageous deals and/or finding really unique and hard to find items. Lets take the first idea and say your a jewelry guru, you can practically smell an insanely good necklace up for auction. You know the product is legimate (mostly because of a long feedback history) and you win the item for a mere $10. Bring the necklace to a local boutique store and have them sell it for you. My local boutique and fashion stores get HUGE mark-ups for their products. Typically in the consignment business, the sale of the item is split 50/50. So, if the necklace sold for a reasonable $60, youd make $20 (half of $60 minus the cost of the necklace). Do that just 10 times a week and youve got $200. The works hours are very flexible, too!You can buy tons of stuff on okay and have a bricks and mortar consignment business. Thats okay Flipping in a nutshell.Either way, I think you have a good idea. Hope this helps.
- Rob
Rob,
Just a quick note to let you know how much I have enjoyed your ebook and the newsletter. I am very new to selling. I just listed my first item on Sunday, however I am a seasoned buyer! I know the ropes when it gees to buying. Now, I would like to learn the best techniques for selling.My goal is to learn as much as I can about the selling process, and to sell quality items. Once I begee gefortable and learn the ropes I would like to offer my okay selling service to local retailers who do not have an okay presence (small and large items). Do you think that is a good way to go? Do you know anyone else approaching okay in this manner? I know it is consignment, but instead on selling just anyones items, I would like to try and find retailers who have great items and are not utilizing okay. I appreciate your advice and wish you and your family continued success!RickHi, Rick. Thanks for the gements about the ebook and newsletter.Yes, I think offering an okay consignment business is a good idea. You can start this up real cheap, too!The benefits of your idea include:Low risk in product investing Youre dealing with a gepany with many products, not one consumer with (typically) one product to auction Here some challenges to consider:Its a lot of paperwork to keep track of how much an item sells for and who/when you split the profits Your consignment partner needs to know that most of the stuff may sell for less. You need to establish a minimum bid amount, if necessary. Many store owners sell licensed merchandise that can not be sold online I would target small to medium size gepanies and start in your area of specialty; something you know a lot about. One of the areas I learned a lot about is jewelry. Ive worked with many small jewelry stores and sold their items. I mean, tons of jewelry is typically just sitting in their stores, often for years, and they would be pleased to get some cash back for it.
Another idea similar to yours is what I call okay Flipping. And, since you mentioned your a seasoned buyer, this also may be a good idea for you. okay Flipping is buying stuff on okay and then bringing the items to consignment stores. Kind of a backwards way of making money with okay, hence the term for this idea.Let me give you an example. okay is ideal for two ways: finding really good, outrageous deals and/or finding really unique and hard to find items. Lets take the first idea and say your a jewelry guru, you can practically smell an insanely good necklace up for auction. You know the product is legimate (mostly because of a long feedback history) and you win the item for a mere $10. Bring the necklace to a local boutique store and have them sell it for you. My local boutique and fashion stores get HUGE mark-ups for their products. Typically in the consignment business, the sale of the item is split 50/50. So, if the necklace sold for a reasonable $60, youd make $20 (half of $60 minus the cost of the necklace). Do that just 10 times a week and youve got $200. The works hours are very flexible, too!You can buy tons of stuff on okay and have a bricks and mortar consignment business. Thats okay Flipping in a nutshell.Either way, I think you have a good idea. Hope this helps.
- Rob
Vintage Cobalt Glass Tray
This fabulous cobalt blue glass tray was given as a representatives award for selling Avons Moonwind cologne successfully. It came out in campaign 19 in 1971. For Moonwind Perfume. Stock Code #0586.
Decorated with a silvery image of the Goddess Diana and herborzoi in the center of the tray. Many times, this image gets worn away and can only been seen as a ghost image when held at a certain angle. The tray measures 12" x 9" and the glass is almost 1/4" thick. It has a blue glass handle on each side trimmed in silvertone. On the base are four feet, these should still be covered with their original protective rubber coatings. Sometimes, one can find the original box intact.
My grandmother sold Avon in the late 1960s up until the early 1980s, and she gave the vanity tray to my mother, she cherished this for many years, even when the Diana image faded away. She originally told me about the Avon history of the tray when we saw another one at an antique store, with a price tag of $125, and a claim that it was from the 1920s and was a rare Art Deco piece. She chuckled and said, well people dont know everything
Over the years on okay, I have seen this tray mistakenly sold as antique, 1920s and art deco. These sellers were unaware that this was a special piece by Avon. Hopefully people will see this guide and know the true facts of this tray. Some Evening in Paris collectors could use this tray to display the bottles beautifully as the colors are nearly identical.
Picture courtesy of okay user profs2
Showing tray,original box with original label.
Feel free to email me for details or any questions. I also have a perfume identification and appraisal service here on okay, click on my Mepage for details.Please see my site at www .freewebs. ge/cleopatrasboudoir
Check out the 200 guides
Decorated with a silvery image of the Goddess Diana and herborzoi in the center of the tray. Many times, this image gets worn away and can only been seen as a ghost image when held at a certain angle. The tray measures 12" x 9" and the glass is almost 1/4" thick. It has a blue glass handle on each side trimmed in silvertone. On the base are four feet, these should still be covered with their original protective rubber coatings. Sometimes, one can find the original box intact.
My grandmother sold Avon in the late 1960s up until the early 1980s, and she gave the vanity tray to my mother, she cherished this for many years, even when the Diana image faded away. She originally told me about the Avon history of the tray when we saw another one at an antique store, with a price tag of $125, and a claim that it was from the 1920s and was a rare Art Deco piece. She chuckled and said, well people dont know everything
Over the years on okay, I have seen this tray mistakenly sold as antique, 1920s and art deco. These sellers were unaware that this was a special piece by Avon. Hopefully people will see this guide and know the true facts of this tray. Some Evening in Paris collectors could use this tray to display the bottles beautifully as the colors are nearly identical.
Picture courtesy of okay user profs2
Showing tray,original box with original label.
Feel free to email me for details or any questions. I also have a perfume identification and appraisal service here on okay, click on my Mepage for details.Please see my site at www .freewebs. ge/cleopatrasboudoir
Check out the 200 guides
COLLECTING SCRIMSHAW
COLLECTING SCRIMSHAW
The biggest problem facing the collector of Scrimshaw pieces is the the market is flooded with FAKES! I would caution the buyer to BEWARE!
History: It was Norman Flayderman who defined scrimshaw as "the art of carving or otherwise fashioning useful or decorative articles as practiced by whalemen, sailors or other associated with nautical pursuits."
19th Century SCRIMSHAWS were made of several materials which included:
Ivory
The biggest problem facing the collector of Scrimshaw pieces is the the market is flooded with FAKES! I would caution the buyer to BEWARE!
History: It was Norman Flayderman who defined scrimshaw as "the art of carving or otherwise fashioning useful or decorative articles as practiced by whalemen, sailors or other associated with nautical pursuits."
19th Century SCRIMSHAWS were made of several materials which included:
Ivory
Phenterfein diet pill
I ordered Phenterfein through an okay seller. I used to take Phentermine (which maintained my weight at 123 lbs for about 5 years). I wanted to try Phenterfein to see if it worked better. I started to take the pills Dec. 20, 2006 and it's Jan. 3rd and so far I noticed an INCREASE in appetite (cravings for tomatoes, pizza) that kind of thing. It did cause diarrhea....is that what it's supposed to do???? I didn't feel any energy rushes (still sluggish). I will give it a chance and report back in about 2 weeks. I don't see ANY weight loss. If you plan to order this product, email me first, and I will be honest if it works or not. I have taken phenfen when it first came out and that worked so well. I was hoping this product was like phenfen.
10 Ways to Get the Most out of Your Workouts
10 Ways to Make Sure you Get the Most out of Your Workouts
1. Workout in the A.M. Morning workouts not only help you get your workout out of the way, but help get you energized for the upgeing day. Plus, you're guaranteed not to put it off.
2. Do what I do, and plan your workouts for the entire week on Sunday. Then keep your workout plans somewhere you'll always notice them (The fridge, your nightstand, hanging from the key rack, etc...) Youll be less likely to miss a workout if it's in your face all the time.
3. If you want to get the most done in the least amount of time, work on the 4 major muscle groups (Chest, Back, Legs, Core). Working these muscles will burn more calories in a shorter period of time. Do 3-5 circuits of Bench Press, Lunges, Pull-Ups/Pull-Downs, Squats, and Crunches.
4. Intensity, not time spent working out produces the best results. A 20-minute workout can be just as effective as a 45-minute workout if you push the pace.
5. Mini-Circuit workouts work wonders. I've produced the most success with trainees by using high-intensity, high-rep mini-circuits. Pick 4-8 exercises and geplete an entire circuit with very little rest, rest for 2-3 minutes and repeat. Mini-Circuits work very well because they build muscle and train the heart.
6. Always push yourself to be better next time you workout. Whether it is one more rep, or 2 1/2 more pounds, or 5 more minutes on the bike. The harder you push yourself, the easier your workouts begee.
7. Find a Fitness Buddy that you're not too close with. A friend of a friend or an acquaintance from work who you share a gemon fitness goal with. It's a lot harder to cancel a workout with somebody you're not gepletely gefortable with.
8. Set up Fitness Nights with Friends or Significant others. Spend your time walking or playing a sport. You'll burn calories and keep up with all your gossip at the same time.
9. Find ways to add a little more exercise time into every day. Aim for 4-5 hours of extra activity every week. Examples of this include taking the stairs everyday, parking further from your destination, standing while talking on the phone, and taking your dog all the way across the lawn to go to the bathroom.
10. If you need that little extra bit of motivation, offer yourself a prize, i.e. A new CD, a special treat, or even a day off. Anything that will get you up, going, and out the door.
I hope you've enjoyed this guide. Contact me with any question, gements, or ideas.
Thank you,
Randall, of Randalls-eBooks
IF YOU FIND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL PLEASE REMEMBER TO VOTE. Thank you.
P.S. This is the type of article you will find in my Monthly Fitness Newsletter. Check out my okay Store to find out more.
1. Workout in the A.M. Morning workouts not only help you get your workout out of the way, but help get you energized for the upgeing day. Plus, you're guaranteed not to put it off.
2. Do what I do, and plan your workouts for the entire week on Sunday. Then keep your workout plans somewhere you'll always notice them (The fridge, your nightstand, hanging from the key rack, etc...) Youll be less likely to miss a workout if it's in your face all the time.
3. If you want to get the most done in the least amount of time, work on the 4 major muscle groups (Chest, Back, Legs, Core). Working these muscles will burn more calories in a shorter period of time. Do 3-5 circuits of Bench Press, Lunges, Pull-Ups/Pull-Downs, Squats, and Crunches.
4. Intensity, not time spent working out produces the best results. A 20-minute workout can be just as effective as a 45-minute workout if you push the pace.
5. Mini-Circuit workouts work wonders. I've produced the most success with trainees by using high-intensity, high-rep mini-circuits. Pick 4-8 exercises and geplete an entire circuit with very little rest, rest for 2-3 minutes and repeat. Mini-Circuits work very well because they build muscle and train the heart.
6. Always push yourself to be better next time you workout. Whether it is one more rep, or 2 1/2 more pounds, or 5 more minutes on the bike. The harder you push yourself, the easier your workouts begee.
7. Find a Fitness Buddy that you're not too close with. A friend of a friend or an acquaintance from work who you share a gemon fitness goal with. It's a lot harder to cancel a workout with somebody you're not gepletely gefortable with.
8. Set up Fitness Nights with Friends or Significant others. Spend your time walking or playing a sport. You'll burn calories and keep up with all your gossip at the same time.
9. Find ways to add a little more exercise time into every day. Aim for 4-5 hours of extra activity every week. Examples of this include taking the stairs everyday, parking further from your destination, standing while talking on the phone, and taking your dog all the way across the lawn to go to the bathroom.
10. If you need that little extra bit of motivation, offer yourself a prize, i.e. A new CD, a special treat, or even a day off. Anything that will get you up, going, and out the door.
I hope you've enjoyed this guide. Contact me with any question, gements, or ideas.
Thank you,
Randall, of Randalls-eBooks
IF YOU FIND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL PLEASE REMEMBER TO VOTE. Thank you.
P.S. This is the type of article you will find in my Monthly Fitness Newsletter. Check out my okay Store to find out more.
How to buy vintage lingerie and foundations.
Once apon a time I was a so-so bookscout and I figure the world of vintage lingerie is like theworld of antiquarian and collectiblebooks in thatbooksof specific informtion are more valuable that broad generaltomes. Ambitious guides to vintage lingerie have been done ad nauseum on okay already, somepretty terrificand some terrible and everything in between. This guide will not tell you everything you ever wanted to know about your favorite hobby but If I've done what I set out to do, itwill help youshop on okay for your favorite authentic vintage lingerie pieces and foundation garments quickly and efficientlywhile avoiding condition issues, fakes andnew "vintage style" items. A collection offine vintage pieces is an investment and the beautiful bullet bras, panties, girdles, corsets, nightgowns, sets, slips and babydolls are fun to hunt down and scout out on okay and off. This is undie buying 101 and many of you old hands will have been doing this stuff long before I figured it out so you guys, just take what you need if anything and leave the rest ok?
Shopping effectively. Narrowing it down.
Every time we open an auction for a non vintage item, it takes time. Time wasted that could be spent looking at things wer'e really interested in - the fine, true vintage stuff.
Use the "advanced search" link under the regular okay search bar.
This opens a window giving you a miriad of search options that will help you narrow down the field. You can search by seller, by bidder (to see what your gepetitors have been buying and what theyve been paying), by gepleted auctions (by seller, bidder or general search tags). Example: on the advanced search page, type in "vintage rubber girdle" and then check the "gepleted auctions" box. You will see what the ending prices were for these pieces. Then try "vintage latex girdle" for any that were listed that way.
Getting the most bang for the buck. (The Bargain hunters zone)
Get creative and use your noggin. A high speed connection helps : ) You'll make yourself crazy waiting for auctions to load with dial-up. If you can afford it, Upgrade! It will pay off quickly in a burgeoning collection of the best of the best with less "filler". A few Examples to get you started: Search for "gridle" when shopping for girdles. Occasionally someone misspells it chances are no one elsewill find the "firm sexy gridle" auctionand you can snap up a bargain if its a good one. Try: vintage panty, vintage pantie, panties (of course) underpants etc.. when searching for vintage panties. Search Bra andbrassiere. You might not be able to find a great 50s bra in your size tonight to save your life but that stunning "vintage brassiere" might be one of those whatever-it-takes auctions : )
Use the "ask seller a question" link.
Read and look past the reams of sparkly pictures and gushy prose (yes,I was the firstgirdle gusher on the bay and am probably responsible for at least some of the craziness - sorry! I've been trying to tone it down. Maybe I need gushers annonymous??) and get to the meat of what the item is.
The big 5 to look for: Vintage, condition, size, label and measurements. Aproximately how old it is, or even year of manufactor if known, what condition it's in (ask specific questions if the description is vague like "great vintage condition!" or "wonderful condition for age", the brand/label/size and the measurements.
NWT doesn't nessesarily mean pristine/new looking. Sometime vintage deadstock or nwt items have been stored badly. They can have age spotting, rust spots and other storage discoloration from many sources. If it doesnt say and you can't tell from the picture, or you don't know the seller ( or know them but don't trust them lol -oops. did i actually write that down? Boy am I naughty. Anyway, you get the point. Use the ASQ link and be specific if you have any concerns or questions about the piece.
I've heard some folks say that vintage bras were bigger than today's bras. Some others say that theywere smaller. I think they're both right. The cups of a 50s-60s bullet bra are usually larger but the band size is usually smaller. Of course with some brands the opposite is true : ) Ha ha! tricked ya! Use the ASQ and GET MEASUREMENTS - and know yours. I wear a 34B in todays bras and can often wear a 36- 38A (if i can find one) in a vintage bra. Small breasted women didn't exist for some gepanys back then or at least they didn't think there were enough of us shopping to bother making bras that fit us : (
Slips: Newer slips nearly always have plastic shoulder sliders. Ask the seller if the sliders are metal. If they are, you know youre bidding on a slip at least 20 years old.
Babydoll sets.Almost all 60s babydoll sets are 3 pieces, panty,nightie and topper or robe/peignoir. The nightie is awesome. The nightie with her matching peignoir is even better but add the panties too - heaven! The panties that originally went with these sets were nearly always bikinis, hipsters or pouffy high waisted undies with the ruffled leg. A classic brief is possible but very rare. If you see a black set with a brief, it's very possible,even likely,that the panty isn't original to the set. But be careful especially when buying the black sets /- nightie/panties or nightie/robe/panties. .. If you look carefully andhave had 100s of these sets in the hand over the years, you will see in some auctions the panties don't match the set. Any old black vintage panties have been added to a black babydoll nightie to create a set which is of course worth much more than the nightie alone. Use the AKQ link and ask if it's possiblethe panties are not original to the set. When worded this way you can usually ferret out the real deal with the set. They will concede that it's possible that they aren't the original panties.
So, if you haven't been, using the Ask Seller a Question link can really save you from some bad purchases and enrich your okay buying experience and enhance your collection!
THIS GUIDE IS STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE FORGIVE ANY TYPOS ETC.. PLEASE EMAIL W/SUGGESTIONS, HINTS, IDEAS... THANKS GIRLIEGIRLS. CHERRY
Shopping effectively. Narrowing it down.
Every time we open an auction for a non vintage item, it takes time. Time wasted that could be spent looking at things wer'e really interested in - the fine, true vintage stuff.
Use the "advanced search" link under the regular okay search bar.
This opens a window giving you a miriad of search options that will help you narrow down the field. You can search by seller, by bidder (to see what your gepetitors have been buying and what theyve been paying), by gepleted auctions (by seller, bidder or general search tags). Example: on the advanced search page, type in "vintage rubber girdle" and then check the "gepleted auctions" box. You will see what the ending prices were for these pieces. Then try "vintage latex girdle" for any that were listed that way.
Getting the most bang for the buck. (The Bargain hunters zone)
Get creative and use your noggin. A high speed connection helps : ) You'll make yourself crazy waiting for auctions to load with dial-up. If you can afford it, Upgrade! It will pay off quickly in a burgeoning collection of the best of the best with less "filler". A few Examples to get you started: Search for "gridle" when shopping for girdles. Occasionally someone misspells it chances are no one elsewill find the "firm sexy gridle" auctionand you can snap up a bargain if its a good one. Try: vintage panty, vintage pantie, panties (of course) underpants etc.. when searching for vintage panties. Search Bra andbrassiere. You might not be able to find a great 50s bra in your size tonight to save your life but that stunning "vintage brassiere" might be one of those whatever-it-takes auctions : )
Use the "ask seller a question" link.
Read and look past the reams of sparkly pictures and gushy prose (yes,I was the firstgirdle gusher on the bay and am probably responsible for at least some of the craziness - sorry! I've been trying to tone it down. Maybe I need gushers annonymous??) and get to the meat of what the item is.
The big 5 to look for: Vintage, condition, size, label and measurements. Aproximately how old it is, or even year of manufactor if known, what condition it's in (ask specific questions if the description is vague like "great vintage condition!" or "wonderful condition for age", the brand/label/size and the measurements.
NWT doesn't nessesarily mean pristine/new looking. Sometime vintage deadstock or nwt items have been stored badly. They can have age spotting, rust spots and other storage discoloration from many sources. If it doesnt say and you can't tell from the picture, or you don't know the seller ( or know them but don't trust them lol -oops. did i actually write that down? Boy am I naughty. Anyway, you get the point. Use the ASQ link and be specific if you have any concerns or questions about the piece.
I've heard some folks say that vintage bras were bigger than today's bras. Some others say that theywere smaller. I think they're both right. The cups of a 50s-60s bullet bra are usually larger but the band size is usually smaller. Of course with some brands the opposite is true : ) Ha ha! tricked ya! Use the ASQ and GET MEASUREMENTS - and know yours. I wear a 34B in todays bras and can often wear a 36- 38A (if i can find one) in a vintage bra. Small breasted women didn't exist for some gepanys back then or at least they didn't think there were enough of us shopping to bother making bras that fit us : (
Slips: Newer slips nearly always have plastic shoulder sliders. Ask the seller if the sliders are metal. If they are, you know youre bidding on a slip at least 20 years old.
Babydoll sets.Almost all 60s babydoll sets are 3 pieces, panty,nightie and topper or robe/peignoir. The nightie is awesome. The nightie with her matching peignoir is even better but add the panties too - heaven! The panties that originally went with these sets were nearly always bikinis, hipsters or pouffy high waisted undies with the ruffled leg. A classic brief is possible but very rare. If you see a black set with a brief, it's very possible,even likely,that the panty isn't original to the set. But be careful especially when buying the black sets /- nightie/panties or nightie/robe/panties. .. If you look carefully andhave had 100s of these sets in the hand over the years, you will see in some auctions the panties don't match the set. Any old black vintage panties have been added to a black babydoll nightie to create a set which is of course worth much more than the nightie alone. Use the AKQ link and ask if it's possiblethe panties are not original to the set. When worded this way you can usually ferret out the real deal with the set. They will concede that it's possible that they aren't the original panties.
So, if you haven't been, using the Ask Seller a Question link can really save you from some bad purchases and enrich your okay buying experience and enhance your collection!
THIS GUIDE IS STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE FORGIVE ANY TYPOS ETC.. PLEASE EMAIL W/SUGGESTIONS, HINTS, IDEAS... THANKS GIRLIEGIRLS. CHERRY
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