Monday, September 5, 2011
Watch out for this!!!!!!
Do not buy from "madeinyourcountry" this person will take your money, in my case $265.00 and you will never see your item!! They are located in Canada and all my attempts to contact them have gone unanswered...... If we stick together maybe eventually we can weed these CROOKS out!!
Canon Digital Rebel XT vs Nikon D70s
CANON DIGITAL REBEL XT vs. NIKON D70s
Digital Rebel XT:
Nikon D70S:
I have had the Rebel XT for a year now and it has been one of the best purchases that I have made in my life. I have taken over 25K stills and the quality is amazing. For those of you trying to decide b/w the Nikon D70s and the XT, here's a little help...
I had actually been torn b/w buying the Nikon D70s and the Rebel XT for quite a while. I read online reviews and virtually found that Canon lovers loved the XT and Nikon lovers loved the D70s - obviously. Being that I have never owned either, I didn't care... I gepared specs and found little differences, but where one was 'better' in a certain area, the other balanced it out by being 'better' in another area. For example, the D70sis 6.1mp and theRebel is 8.0mp. I had been told that the Nikon came with the better lens and thus was still the better camera, even at6.1mp. I started leaning toward the NIKON D70s, but still was unsure. So, I read on and on and on and said FORGET IT! I'm going toBESTBU* and trying them out for Myself!
THE TEST
So, I went to BestBu* and took stills with both cameras using the same settings. I took stills of the far corner of the building, up in the corner where there are boxes stored and wires and lots of little details that are VERY difficult for a camera to pick out, especially in such low lighting like a retail store. Being that I take most of my pictures indoors, this ability was most important to me. SO, after taking many different stills, side by side, on geparible settings - the Bestbu* worker actually let me print out the stills on their photo printer (not the greatest printer, but good enough for what we were doing). I used 5 sets of geparison shots - using full auto different manual settings...
AND I saw for myself - Truly 5/5 of the sets - the Canon Rebel XT was better by FAR. I am not biased, mind you. The XT was able to pick out differences in little shadows and the edges of boxes and wires were much, much crisper and clearer. The Nikon's pics were quite a bit 'yellow' on full auto, whereas the XT was clear and whiter on full auto. * I took the photos home and had my fam gepare also without knowing which photos were taken with which camera, and they said the exact same thing 5/5 - Rebel XT won hands down. So this made my decision process much easier. I bought the Canon and have been MORE than satisfied with the purchase. I can't tell you how glad I am the I went and gepared the two.
SO if you are trying to decide - either take my advise or even go to Bestbu* yourself and gepare cameras side by side and see the difference. They have many other cameras that you may be interested in also. You'll be glad you did - and then you can gee back to okay and get a great deal on a new Rebel. Good luck. God bless
**IF You have found my GUIDE to be helpful, PLEASE give me a click on the YES Button Below, THANKS!**
Digital Rebel XT:
Nikon D70S:
I have had the Rebel XT for a year now and it has been one of the best purchases that I have made in my life. I have taken over 25K stills and the quality is amazing. For those of you trying to decide b/w the Nikon D70s and the XT, here's a little help...
I had actually been torn b/w buying the Nikon D70s and the Rebel XT for quite a while. I read online reviews and virtually found that Canon lovers loved the XT and Nikon lovers loved the D70s - obviously. Being that I have never owned either, I didn't care... I gepared specs and found little differences, but where one was 'better' in a certain area, the other balanced it out by being 'better' in another area. For example, the D70sis 6.1mp and theRebel is 8.0mp. I had been told that the Nikon came with the better lens and thus was still the better camera, even at6.1mp. I started leaning toward the NIKON D70s, but still was unsure. So, I read on and on and on and said FORGET IT! I'm going toBESTBU* and trying them out for Myself!
THE TEST
So, I went to BestBu* and took stills with both cameras using the same settings. I took stills of the far corner of the building, up in the corner where there are boxes stored and wires and lots of little details that are VERY difficult for a camera to pick out, especially in such low lighting like a retail store. Being that I take most of my pictures indoors, this ability was most important to me. SO, after taking many different stills, side by side, on geparible settings - the Bestbu* worker actually let me print out the stills on their photo printer (not the greatest printer, but good enough for what we were doing). I used 5 sets of geparison shots - using full auto different manual settings...
AND I saw for myself - Truly 5/5 of the sets - the Canon Rebel XT was better by FAR. I am not biased, mind you. The XT was able to pick out differences in little shadows and the edges of boxes and wires were much, much crisper and clearer. The Nikon's pics were quite a bit 'yellow' on full auto, whereas the XT was clear and whiter on full auto. * I took the photos home and had my fam gepare also without knowing which photos were taken with which camera, and they said the exact same thing 5/5 - Rebel XT won hands down. So this made my decision process much easier. I bought the Canon and have been MORE than satisfied with the purchase. I can't tell you how glad I am the I went and gepared the two.
SO if you are trying to decide - either take my advise or even go to Bestbu* yourself and gepare cameras side by side and see the difference. They have many other cameras that you may be interested in also. You'll be glad you did - and then you can gee back to okay and get a great deal on a new Rebel. Good luck. God bless
**IF You have found my GUIDE to be helpful, PLEASE give me a click on the YES Button Below, THANKS!**
Kensington Aluminum
I started to collect Kensington aluminum several years ago when I found a piece that reminded me of a tray my mother used to use. My mother used that Kensington tray to serve everything from cocktails and canaps, to sandwiches and desserts for her bridge club. In addition to being versatile and durable, Kensington aluminum has a soft, silky feel and incredible style. I am by no means an expert, but I have learned a little about my collection and am happy to share what I know!
A Very Brief History of Aluminum
Aluminum is a basic chemical element. By the mid-1800s, scientists knew that it existed, but really had no idea how to extract it from the earth, or even what exactly to do with it once they did. In 1854, Henri Sainte-Claire Deville (France) invented a chemical method of extracting aluminum. Scientists soon found that aluminum was a very exciting discovery - not only is aluminum light, it is soft enough to be easily shaped into many forms. Despite those findings, aluminum could only be made in small amounts and was used primarily for small handmade objects. As supplies increased, aluminum began to be used for industrial products. Inventors working on the first airplanes valued aluminum for its lightness and durability. In 1886, Charles Martin Hall (Ohio) and Paul Heroult (France) almost simultaneously discovered the method of smelting aluminum. This method, called the Hall-Heroult Process, is an electricity based method which leaves aluminum as a byproduct. Hall started the Pittsburgh Reduction gepany, which became the Aluminum gepany of America (Alcoa) in 1907. With the increased supply and lower cost, gepanies began experimenting with aluminum products for mass use, such as military canteens, gebs, furniture, Airstream trailers, and even a violin.
ALCOA and Kensington Aluminum
Alcoa introduced their aluminum alloy giftware line - Kensington Ware -in 1934. The line was designed by Lurelle Guild, an industrial and modernist designer. The first series of pieces were aluminum and cast brass - they were Art Deco in style and very functional. The Kensington line of giftware was made of a aluminum alloy that was whiter in color than pure aluminum and was manufactured in New Kensington, Pennsylvania until 1970.
Lurelle Van Arsdale Guild
Lurelle Van Arsdale Guild (1898-1986) was a prominent modernist designer. Modernist designers, such as Guild and his contemporaries Raymond Loewy, Russell Wright, George Sakier and Gilbert Rohde, worked with manufacturers to create livable products with distinctive style. Guild studied painting at Syracuse University and began designing magazine covers and working in theatre design. In addition to his role with Alcoa, Guild worked with other manufacturers, such as Westinghouse, Norge, Fostoria Glass, Chase Metal Arts and Herman Miller. Lurelle Guild is perhaps best known for his streamlined and quite beautiful Electrolux vacuum cleaner.
What to Look For When Purchasing Kensington Ware
Some of the most popular Kensingtonware items are the brass accented Coldchester and Laurel lines. Other lines include Waverly, Mayfair, Chatham, Clifton, Dorchester and Moire, each with its own distinctive look. Most - if not all - vintage Kensington pieces will have some scratching in the soft aluminum. Its best, of course, to find a piece with as little scratching as possible. Some pieces - such as an unusual cigarette box or a highly sought-after Art Deco styled brass and aluminum piece - are worth buying even with heavy scratching, because of their rarity.
Care and Cleaning of Your Aluminum Collection
It is best to keep cleaning simple - just a very mild soap and warm water. Do not use any type of abrasive cleaner - such as scouring powder or steel wool, even baking soda - or harsh detergents. Do not soak your aluminum pieces - simply clean and dry with a soft towel.
A Very Brief History of Aluminum
Aluminum is a basic chemical element. By the mid-1800s, scientists knew that it existed, but really had no idea how to extract it from the earth, or even what exactly to do with it once they did. In 1854, Henri Sainte-Claire Deville (France) invented a chemical method of extracting aluminum. Scientists soon found that aluminum was a very exciting discovery - not only is aluminum light, it is soft enough to be easily shaped into many forms. Despite those findings, aluminum could only be made in small amounts and was used primarily for small handmade objects. As supplies increased, aluminum began to be used for industrial products. Inventors working on the first airplanes valued aluminum for its lightness and durability. In 1886, Charles Martin Hall (Ohio) and Paul Heroult (France) almost simultaneously discovered the method of smelting aluminum. This method, called the Hall-Heroult Process, is an electricity based method which leaves aluminum as a byproduct. Hall started the Pittsburgh Reduction gepany, which became the Aluminum gepany of America (Alcoa) in 1907. With the increased supply and lower cost, gepanies began experimenting with aluminum products for mass use, such as military canteens, gebs, furniture, Airstream trailers, and even a violin.
ALCOA and Kensington Aluminum
Alcoa introduced their aluminum alloy giftware line - Kensington Ware -in 1934. The line was designed by Lurelle Guild, an industrial and modernist designer. The first series of pieces were aluminum and cast brass - they were Art Deco in style and very functional. The Kensington line of giftware was made of a aluminum alloy that was whiter in color than pure aluminum and was manufactured in New Kensington, Pennsylvania until 1970.
Lurelle Van Arsdale Guild
Lurelle Van Arsdale Guild (1898-1986) was a prominent modernist designer. Modernist designers, such as Guild and his contemporaries Raymond Loewy, Russell Wright, George Sakier and Gilbert Rohde, worked with manufacturers to create livable products with distinctive style. Guild studied painting at Syracuse University and began designing magazine covers and working in theatre design. In addition to his role with Alcoa, Guild worked with other manufacturers, such as Westinghouse, Norge, Fostoria Glass, Chase Metal Arts and Herman Miller. Lurelle Guild is perhaps best known for his streamlined and quite beautiful Electrolux vacuum cleaner.
What to Look For When Purchasing Kensington Ware
Some of the most popular Kensingtonware items are the brass accented Coldchester and Laurel lines. Other lines include Waverly, Mayfair, Chatham, Clifton, Dorchester and Moire, each with its own distinctive look. Most - if not all - vintage Kensington pieces will have some scratching in the soft aluminum. Its best, of course, to find a piece with as little scratching as possible. Some pieces - such as an unusual cigarette box or a highly sought-after Art Deco styled brass and aluminum piece - are worth buying even with heavy scratching, because of their rarity.
Care and Cleaning of Your Aluminum Collection
It is best to keep cleaning simple - just a very mild soap and warm water. Do not use any type of abrasive cleaner - such as scouring powder or steel wool, even baking soda - or harsh detergents. Do not soak your aluminum pieces - simply clean and dry with a soft towel.
Researching Items for Selling
The purpose of this guide is to help explain the best way for you to make the most money with the items you are planning to sell online! The biggest key to getting the best price for your item is to know what you are selling, which means resaerching what you have. Hopefully this guide will help you learn how to increase your sales outgees.
I think most people who started out selling on okay had the idea that they could just find something, take pictures and list it, then make lots of money. The okay dream is that you will sell even garbage items for tons of money. Reality is entirely different.
Unless you have something quite rare and know what you have, even if you luck out and get a good amount for it, you are most likely underselling your item.
How do you remedy the situation? Research, learning about the items you plan to sell, and geparison of market values.
Prior to okay and in fact the internet as a whole, collectibles, antiques and other highly sought items were considered to be things that only those with extra money could afford. With the internet and okay, the authors of many books which set price guides for items, along with the collectors, found out the items were actually affordable and in some cases, not as 'rare' as they thought! This, along with flooding of the market, has led to devaluation of many antiques and collectibles. I see it quite often in the realm of collectible glass, pottery and dinnerware especially.
So how do those of us who are not only collectors, but also sellers, address the issue of what to sell, how best to sell it as well as make fair money? Books, internet resources, keeping on top of constant trends in the market we work in. Being an internet seller is not a simple or easy job. But if you love what you do, then it is worth it even when slightly frustrating! For those like me, simply being able to temporarily house a beautiful piece of collectible glass or pottery is a bonus!
I see so many sellers on okay and even their own sites, who arbitrarily make false statements regarding items they are trying to sell because they did not take the time to research. Some of those statements are truely funny, others are harmful as another seller may perpetuate the false information by copying it and soon we see a domino effect of misidentification. Those are the ones I think are honestly clueless as opposed to the frauds and scammers. Those of us who are honest sellers and make a living at it constantly gripe about those who scam or fraud, and yes, even those who are just mistaken. But we also spend a lot of time researching, learning and trying to help others learn. There are countless groups, forums, online research links and ways of searching that are available to everyone. Not everyone is open to help, but most people are usually trying to help someone increase their sales and nothing more. And it is not always hard to find the information.
It is amazing the information you can find when simply typing into Google 'Depression Glass information'! Even though many of the information sites which gee up on the first page do also have their own selling venues linked, they are great for learning about Depression Glass. See, that wasn't so hard, right? You can do that with just about anything you are interested in! The wonder of the internet and search engines - someday Google MAY rule the world LOL!
If, like myself, you are making a career of your selling in the market of collectible glass and pottery, then it is imperative that you buy the books that will help you learn more about the items you sell. I have a collection of over 100 books and still am nowhere near owning all the ones I need or want! Thankfully I have many friends who are in the same field who do own some of them, some I can go to the library and borrow, and again I can also go to the internet for help! A full time egemerce seller of collectible glassware and pottery who does not know their products is doomed to failure! Even if you may make sales, you won't make the sales you truely should with a little more knowledge. This is true whether an egemerce seller or someone who owns a brick and mortar shop! I go shopping in quite a few antique shops, and have had great success with items I find for a decent price and can turn around and sell for a good profit simply because the seller did not know what they had there.
Research is not just the job of the seller though. Some of the problems we see on okay are directly attributable to the fact that the potential buyer does not know the correct name or exact features of what they want to buy! Sometimes it is a matter of misinformation, i.e. the pattern was given to them by a relative, who gave them the name they had called it instead of the proper name, in some cases it is because though several gepanies made like items with almost the same name, there are distinctive differences which are important to know when purchasing. So collectors should also learn everything they can about the items they collect if it is something they want to purchase regularly as in gepleting a set.
Another awesome way to learn what you will be selling or even just collecting, is to go out and see it, touch it, examine it carefully in person. This is possible at antique stores, thrift shops, flea markets and even antique shows. I do this as often as I can, and it has helped me enormously since once I have actually handled something in a pattern I have previously only seen in books, I seem to then have no problem immediately identifying the item or pattern correctly. Almost like people who need to say it, write it, and say it again in order to retain information presented to them. It works for me! I truely think the ability to physically handle a piece of glass or pottery triggers another memory source in your mind, which leads to your ability to add another perception of it to your overall 'library'.
I have also been lucky enough to have access to some of the best resources through forums and boards I am on. Authors of many books dealing with EAPG, Elegant, Depression, Vaseline and other collectible glass as well as a few Art and specific pottery authors. Also, collectors whose passion has led them to set up websites to help others learn the correct information regarding items they may find. Both of these resources have not only helped me, but led to my begeing more of a collector myself! (Can I blame them just a little, please? LOL)
So, there are many formats for how to learn more about what you collect or sell, now all you have to do.... is do it!
Some of my favorite research links:
German Porcelain Marks
I think most people who started out selling on okay had the idea that they could just find something, take pictures and list it, then make lots of money. The okay dream is that you will sell even garbage items for tons of money. Reality is entirely different.
Unless you have something quite rare and know what you have, even if you luck out and get a good amount for it, you are most likely underselling your item.
How do you remedy the situation? Research, learning about the items you plan to sell, and geparison of market values.
Prior to okay and in fact the internet as a whole, collectibles, antiques and other highly sought items were considered to be things that only those with extra money could afford. With the internet and okay, the authors of many books which set price guides for items, along with the collectors, found out the items were actually affordable and in some cases, not as 'rare' as they thought! This, along with flooding of the market, has led to devaluation of many antiques and collectibles. I see it quite often in the realm of collectible glass, pottery and dinnerware especially.
So how do those of us who are not only collectors, but also sellers, address the issue of what to sell, how best to sell it as well as make fair money? Books, internet resources, keeping on top of constant trends in the market we work in. Being an internet seller is not a simple or easy job. But if you love what you do, then it is worth it even when slightly frustrating! For those like me, simply being able to temporarily house a beautiful piece of collectible glass or pottery is a bonus!
I see so many sellers on okay and even their own sites, who arbitrarily make false statements regarding items they are trying to sell because they did not take the time to research. Some of those statements are truely funny, others are harmful as another seller may perpetuate the false information by copying it and soon we see a domino effect of misidentification. Those are the ones I think are honestly clueless as opposed to the frauds and scammers. Those of us who are honest sellers and make a living at it constantly gripe about those who scam or fraud, and yes, even those who are just mistaken. But we also spend a lot of time researching, learning and trying to help others learn. There are countless groups, forums, online research links and ways of searching that are available to everyone. Not everyone is open to help, but most people are usually trying to help someone increase their sales and nothing more. And it is not always hard to find the information.
It is amazing the information you can find when simply typing into Google 'Depression Glass information'! Even though many of the information sites which gee up on the first page do also have their own selling venues linked, they are great for learning about Depression Glass. See, that wasn't so hard, right? You can do that with just about anything you are interested in! The wonder of the internet and search engines - someday Google MAY rule the world LOL!
If, like myself, you are making a career of your selling in the market of collectible glass and pottery, then it is imperative that you buy the books that will help you learn more about the items you sell. I have a collection of over 100 books and still am nowhere near owning all the ones I need or want! Thankfully I have many friends who are in the same field who do own some of them, some I can go to the library and borrow, and again I can also go to the internet for help! A full time egemerce seller of collectible glassware and pottery who does not know their products is doomed to failure! Even if you may make sales, you won't make the sales you truely should with a little more knowledge. This is true whether an egemerce seller or someone who owns a brick and mortar shop! I go shopping in quite a few antique shops, and have had great success with items I find for a decent price and can turn around and sell for a good profit simply because the seller did not know what they had there.
Research is not just the job of the seller though. Some of the problems we see on okay are directly attributable to the fact that the potential buyer does not know the correct name or exact features of what they want to buy! Sometimes it is a matter of misinformation, i.e. the pattern was given to them by a relative, who gave them the name they had called it instead of the proper name, in some cases it is because though several gepanies made like items with almost the same name, there are distinctive differences which are important to know when purchasing. So collectors should also learn everything they can about the items they collect if it is something they want to purchase regularly as in gepleting a set.
Another awesome way to learn what you will be selling or even just collecting, is to go out and see it, touch it, examine it carefully in person. This is possible at antique stores, thrift shops, flea markets and even antique shows. I do this as often as I can, and it has helped me enormously since once I have actually handled something in a pattern I have previously only seen in books, I seem to then have no problem immediately identifying the item or pattern correctly. Almost like people who need to say it, write it, and say it again in order to retain information presented to them. It works for me! I truely think the ability to physically handle a piece of glass or pottery triggers another memory source in your mind, which leads to your ability to add another perception of it to your overall 'library'.
I have also been lucky enough to have access to some of the best resources through forums and boards I am on. Authors of many books dealing with EAPG, Elegant, Depression, Vaseline and other collectible glass as well as a few Art and specific pottery authors. Also, collectors whose passion has led them to set up websites to help others learn the correct information regarding items they may find. Both of these resources have not only helped me, but led to my begeing more of a collector myself! (Can I blame them just a little, please? LOL)
So, there are many formats for how to learn more about what you collect or sell, now all you have to do.... is do it!
Some of my favorite research links:
German Porcelain Marks
mandolin buying
I bought a rogue mandolin for $30.00 , my first mandolin on e bay from musicians friend- that was less than a year ago- I'm far from an expert , but learned to pick out just about any song that I can think of- Have learned a few cords in the last few weeks-For the price and sound if your thinking about a first mandolin , this one is great for a beginner- One thing to keep in mind - Strings are of the most importance- I replaced the strings with d-addario j67 nickle wound . You can get them from the Fret store right here on okay for about $4.95 plus a few bucks shipping- that will improve the sound a 100 percent- The next thing is a good tuner- I had one for a guitar prior to the mandolin, but its almost a must buy- you can also find them here on okay for about $20.00 My second mandolin was a hohner a style, bought right here on okay- It was about three times the money - and didn't sound as good as the rogue, that I re-stringed. I ordered a set of d-addario j67 nickle wound strings , now it sounds just as good or maybe a tad better. They both have a good sound , tone wise , they sound a little different- I've played guitar for a number of years and have found the mandolin is easier to pick for me , but right now its a little harder to chord- , but if you want to find out if the mandolin is your thing. A $50.00 investment is pretty small-any way I love mine hope this might be of some help for you to decide-
SPOTTING REPRINT CORVETTE OWNER MANUALS GUIDE 1953-1959
THIS GUIDEWILL HELP YOU DETERMINE IF YOUR CORVETTE OWNERS MANUAL IS ORIGINAL OR NOT, OR WEATHER THE MANUAL YOU ARE THINKING OF BIDDING ON IS ORIGINAL
FIRSTTHERE ARE TO MANY PEOPLE ARE GETTING SCAMMED INTO PAYING UP TO $100's FOR FAKE / REPRINT SO CALLED NOS / ORIGINAL CORVETTEOWNERS MANUALS
I WILL BE UPDATING THIS GUIDE SOME MORE AS DAYS GO ON.
PLZ RATE MY GUIDES AT THE BOTTOM THAT'S THE ONLY WAY I KNOW IF EVERY ONE WANTS ME TO WRIGHT MORE. I PLAN ON GOING ALL THE WAY UP TO 1972 WITH THE CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS
SOME KEY HINTS IN CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS, THIS GOS FOR ALL YEARS 53-72.
EXPT. 1ST EDITION 1953 IF THE MANUAL DOS NOT SAY WHAT EDITION IT IS IT IS A REPRINT
CHEVY DID NOT USE WHITE PAPER IT IS OFF GRAY.
ALL CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS EXPT.1953 HAVE THE PART NUMBER ON ONE OF THE FIRST 2 PAGES OR THE BACK COVER, IF NOT IT IS A REPRINT
ALL CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS 1953-1972EXPT. 1ST EDITION 1953 HAD ON ONE OF THE FIRST TWO PAGES WHAT EDITION THEY ARE,((( IF IT DOS NOT SAY WHAT EDITION IT IS IT IS A REPRINT ))).
THE COVER IS ALWAY THICKER THAN THE INER PAGES
FIRSTTHERE ARE TO MANY PEOPLE ARE GETTING SCAMMED INTO PAYING UP TO $100's FOR FAKE / REPRINT SO CALLED NOS / ORIGINAL CORVETTEOWNERS MANUALS
I WILL BE UPDATING THIS GUIDE SOME MORE AS DAYS GO ON.
PLZ RATE MY GUIDES AT THE BOTTOM THAT'S THE ONLY WAY I KNOW IF EVERY ONE WANTS ME TO WRIGHT MORE. I PLAN ON GOING ALL THE WAY UP TO 1972 WITH THE CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS
SOME KEY HINTS IN CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS, THIS GOS FOR ALL YEARS 53-72.
EXPT. 1ST EDITION 1953 IF THE MANUAL DOS NOT SAY WHAT EDITION IT IS IT IS A REPRINT
CHEVY DID NOT USE WHITE PAPER IT IS OFF GRAY.
ALL CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS EXPT.1953 HAVE THE PART NUMBER ON ONE OF THE FIRST 2 PAGES OR THE BACK COVER, IF NOT IT IS A REPRINT
ALL CORVETTE OWNERS MANUALS 1953-1972EXPT. 1ST EDITION 1953 HAD ON ONE OF THE FIRST TWO PAGES WHAT EDITION THEY ARE,((( IF IT DOS NOT SAY WHAT EDITION IT IS IT IS A REPRINT ))).
THE COVER IS ALWAY THICKER THAN THE INER PAGES
What to Take on a Motorcycle Camping Trip.
When taking a camping trip on a motorcycle, the second most important item after the destination is, what to take with you. Are you going to be carrying a passenger on your bike? Are you going with several others that will ride individually?
A motorcycle camping trip can be one of the most enjoyable camping trips that you will ever take, whether it is just time away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life or a weekend bike rally. Being prepared for anything, yet not looking like the Beverly Hillbillies when you arrive, is dependent on how well you plan and pack.
Items you will want to considertaking with you:
Tent Sleeping mat Sleeping bag
Changes of clothing Wet weather gearMultitool
FlashlightToiletriesFirst aid kit
Firestarter Lawn chairCooler
Grill/Stove CookwareDishes
I know, I know, you are looking at the list and thinking, this person has got to be crazy to think that I can load all of that onto my bike! Well, I have been called crazy before, but yes all of this can be loaded and has been loaded on our bikes when we have headed out to go to bike rallys.
Lets go down the list and see what is suitable for taking on a bike:
TENT: A small 2or3 person tent is suitable it gees in its own bag. Select one that gees with fiberglass poles that will fold down smaller than the old aluminum type. Choose one that including bag is no more than 3 feet long.
SLEEPING MAT: The ground can get cold and ungefortable, a self inflating sleeping mat is ideal. Here also you need to choose a mat that gees in its own carrying case. If you prefer, a pool style air mattress will work, however, they have a tendancy to get holes in them at the most inopportune times and you wake up sleeping on the ground anyway.
SLEEPING BAG: Depending on the time of year and the temperature, the selection of sleeping bags is endless. If the weather is warm, a small fleece bag will suit your needs and does not take up much room. If it is cooler, you may wish to take a cotton filled bag. It is heavier than the highloft bags, however it does not take up as much room.
CLOTHING: Your riding clothes, such as chaps and jacket should already be on your bike in your saddlebags or on your person. You will need one or two pairs of jeans, a couple of pairs of socks, 2 or 3 shirts and at least one of those needs to be long sleeved, in case of weather changes. If you are only going to be gone for one night, you do not need to take as much.
FLASHLIGHT, TOILETRIES,FIRST-AID KIT MULTITOOL:These items can all be the small travel size. A wonderful flashlight that is out is The Illuminator. You do not have to worry about batteries, You just turn the crank for 1 minute and have light for up to 1 hour. There are 2 different light settings whether you are trying to see inside your tent or need it to find camp.
A soft sided first aid kit is the best for stuffing in your saddlebags or luggage. It will take up less room than a hard case. Your travel size toiletries can be put in either a small makeup bag or ziplock baggies. A multi tool with a hammer is excellent for nailing in tent stakes, cutting items and even openning cans.
WET WEATHER GEAR: This is something that should be on your bike at all times. Mine is kept in my saddlebags unless I am wearing it. When purchasing a rain suit or rain jacket, look for one that has a zipper front with an overlapping snapped or velcro flaps. Rain pants can be made specifically for riding and have heat resistant calves. If these are not available. regular rainpants will work, as long as you wear your chaps over them.
LAWN CHAIR: Choose a chair that has its own carrying case and is under 3 feet in length. The new scissor fold chairs work the best.
COOLER: A soft sided cooler works the best for strapping on a bike. If you are carrying a passenger, the cooler can double for a luggage carrier and then used as a cooler once you arrive.
GRILL/STOVE, COOKWARE, DISHES: You can go for the elaborate folddown campstove, a stow away cookware set and picnic dishes, or you can go for the simple sterno campstove. Some camping areas have firerings available and sell firewood so a stove is not necessary. Depending on what you are choosing to cook, most canned items can be cooked and eaten right out of the can. Foil can be used as cookware. A multipurpose set is useful that includes, skillet, pot, coffee pot, utensils for cooking and eating, cups and plates. It stores inside the big pot and the skillet doubles as a lid.
I believe I have covered all of the items that are necessary for the camping trip. You may wish to all other items that you may need or take away some of them that you don't believe will be necessary for your particular trip.
Now you have all of your items laid out. How are you going to stow them on your bike? If nothing else is available, a large gym/sports bag will work. It can be strapped on with bungee cords or a bike cargo net. I prefer the large T-Bag. It can be folded down to a small size when not in use or unzipped to a giant size for the long haul. It has several pockets on the outside for holding your small items and other things that you may need along the way.
The tent and lawn chair do not go inside the bag. They can be laid flat across the luggage rack, if your bike is equipped with one, or set them upright and hook them to the back of the T-Bag. Just remember when you load your bag, place the heaviest items in the bottom of the bag with the lightest on the top.
A motorcycle camping trip can be one of the most enjoyable camping trips that you will ever take, whether it is just time away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life or a weekend bike rally. Being prepared for anything, yet not looking like the Beverly Hillbillies when you arrive, is dependent on how well you plan and pack.
Items you will want to considertaking with you:
Tent Sleeping mat Sleeping bag
Changes of clothing Wet weather gearMultitool
FlashlightToiletriesFirst aid kit
Firestarter Lawn chairCooler
Grill/Stove CookwareDishes
I know, I know, you are looking at the list and thinking, this person has got to be crazy to think that I can load all of that onto my bike! Well, I have been called crazy before, but yes all of this can be loaded and has been loaded on our bikes when we have headed out to go to bike rallys.
Lets go down the list and see what is suitable for taking on a bike:
TENT: A small 2or3 person tent is suitable it gees in its own bag. Select one that gees with fiberglass poles that will fold down smaller than the old aluminum type. Choose one that including bag is no more than 3 feet long.
SLEEPING MAT: The ground can get cold and ungefortable, a self inflating sleeping mat is ideal. Here also you need to choose a mat that gees in its own carrying case. If you prefer, a pool style air mattress will work, however, they have a tendancy to get holes in them at the most inopportune times and you wake up sleeping on the ground anyway.
SLEEPING BAG: Depending on the time of year and the temperature, the selection of sleeping bags is endless. If the weather is warm, a small fleece bag will suit your needs and does not take up much room. If it is cooler, you may wish to take a cotton filled bag. It is heavier than the highloft bags, however it does not take up as much room.
CLOTHING: Your riding clothes, such as chaps and jacket should already be on your bike in your saddlebags or on your person. You will need one or two pairs of jeans, a couple of pairs of socks, 2 or 3 shirts and at least one of those needs to be long sleeved, in case of weather changes. If you are only going to be gone for one night, you do not need to take as much.
FLASHLIGHT, TOILETRIES,FIRST-AID KIT MULTITOOL:These items can all be the small travel size. A wonderful flashlight that is out is The Illuminator. You do not have to worry about batteries, You just turn the crank for 1 minute and have light for up to 1 hour. There are 2 different light settings whether you are trying to see inside your tent or need it to find camp.
A soft sided first aid kit is the best for stuffing in your saddlebags or luggage. It will take up less room than a hard case. Your travel size toiletries can be put in either a small makeup bag or ziplock baggies. A multi tool with a hammer is excellent for nailing in tent stakes, cutting items and even openning cans.
WET WEATHER GEAR: This is something that should be on your bike at all times. Mine is kept in my saddlebags unless I am wearing it. When purchasing a rain suit or rain jacket, look for one that has a zipper front with an overlapping snapped or velcro flaps. Rain pants can be made specifically for riding and have heat resistant calves. If these are not available. regular rainpants will work, as long as you wear your chaps over them.
LAWN CHAIR: Choose a chair that has its own carrying case and is under 3 feet in length. The new scissor fold chairs work the best.
COOLER: A soft sided cooler works the best for strapping on a bike. If you are carrying a passenger, the cooler can double for a luggage carrier and then used as a cooler once you arrive.
GRILL/STOVE, COOKWARE, DISHES: You can go for the elaborate folddown campstove, a stow away cookware set and picnic dishes, or you can go for the simple sterno campstove. Some camping areas have firerings available and sell firewood so a stove is not necessary. Depending on what you are choosing to cook, most canned items can be cooked and eaten right out of the can. Foil can be used as cookware. A multipurpose set is useful that includes, skillet, pot, coffee pot, utensils for cooking and eating, cups and plates. It stores inside the big pot and the skillet doubles as a lid.
I believe I have covered all of the items that are necessary for the camping trip. You may wish to all other items that you may need or take away some of them that you don't believe will be necessary for your particular trip.
Now you have all of your items laid out. How are you going to stow them on your bike? If nothing else is available, a large gym/sports bag will work. It can be strapped on with bungee cords or a bike cargo net. I prefer the large T-Bag. It can be folded down to a small size when not in use or unzipped to a giant size for the long haul. It has several pockets on the outside for holding your small items and other things that you may need along the way.
The tent and lawn chair do not go inside the bag. They can be laid flat across the luggage rack, if your bike is equipped with one, or set them upright and hook them to the back of the T-Bag. Just remember when you load your bag, place the heaviest items in the bottom of the bag with the lightest on the top.
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